ITBs

[A18A]

i scored some ITBs last week for $50 (came with a free engine too) here's a few pics


my cool tps spacer

using a brake fluid bottle lid

and test fitting them



all i've done so far is added the honda tps, map sensor, swapped the injector plugs on the engine loom, bypassed resistor box, swapped all the bolts to honda ones (for extra reliability) blocked off the vacuum manifold, filed the top off (was hitting the head) & cleaned them

all i need to get it running is fuel
other things to do are match up the ports, somehow bolt it onto the head with more than 1 bolt and add air temp sensor. could do with a longer fuel hose too since the intake of this one is on the other side of the manifold :@

edit: first thread i made in performance yay

[thegreatdane]

Looks like the ports are pretty far off, if these port scans look correct to you?
If it's as far off as this picture suggests, then you'd be looking at downsizing the ITB runners alot, since the head doesnt allow the ports to be much wider than what they are.
Compared to the fact that the itb's are from a toyota though it's pretty interesting that the ports and bolt holes are this similar.



I'm eager to hear if you can even make it fire up.

lol welcome to a new side of 3geez!

[A18A]

actually in that pic i think it was just bolted on there crooked, cause the ports are actually smaller than on the head. i just hope the injectors still work after i accidently abused them. if i fail then i will just go back to the stock manifold with some runners welded to it idea

[thegreatdane]

abused the injectors lol what's that supposed to mean? in a non sexual way I hope

[A18A]

lol nah the other day i accidentally knocked the engine over & it fell on the manifold, i don't think it damaged them though

[A18A]

well it runs, but runs like complete utter shit atm, prolly some vacuum leaks, or the shitty petrol running through it (drained the last of the petrol outta the other cars), but i didnt check how well i bolted it on, so its prolly leaking between the head & manifold. i'll try get a vid

[A18A]

i think i might have possibly figured why it runs like ass, are the injectors supposed to fire into the cylinder in the 4-2-1-3 pattern? cause mine fire them in a 4-3-2-1 patter lol

[ghettogeddy]

what is the c clap holding lol

also for the fire order can you just move the plugs around to ge them to fire in the correct order

[A18A]

yeah thats what i'm gonna do. the clamp is holding the tdc sensor in there cause i couldnt be bothered finding a bolt at the time

[Hauntd ca3]

i think i might have possibly figured why it runs like ass, are the injectors supposed to fire into the cylinder in the 4-2-1-3 pattern? cause mine fire them in a 4-3-2-1 patter lol

shouldnt it be 1342 like the firing order
you get her running alright with the fact ecu or she still bit ratty?

[A18A]

well, i tried to get her going today but failed, after a bunch of looking over, i have realized i ran out of fuel but when i have some petrol & was testing the injectors, they sprayed heeeaps of petrol, isnt it just supposed to be a fine mist?

[Hauntd ca3]

yep should be a mist

[A18A]

thought so, maybe that will explain why it ran out of petrol so fast, i must fiigure out what ive done wrong

[Hauntd ca3]

hows the troble shooting going?
whtas the fuel presure like

[A18A]

i dunno what the fuel pressure is, i've just been trynna find all the specs on stock honda injectors and the 4age injectors

[Hauntd ca3]

the main thing is making sure the 4age injectors are the same resistance as the honda ones.
if not you can add a resistor of the right value in line between the injector and factory injector resistor to raise the resistance. dont know how you'd lower it
if the resistance is to low you would cause a higher current flow in the injector driver part of the ecu and that can burn it out over time.
and if its to high it might not be opening completely or at all.
if you have a dmm you can figure it out.
what fpr you using?

[Vector]

sounds like fpr problem...

did you check all injectors ?

i dont think a resistor box should change the how much fuel should come out... best to find one from a 4age, if they have one that is. if not.. i would try a honda one first.

[Hauntd ca3]

you got the prob sorted yet dude?
or does this look like a job for a link plus

[A18A]

i actually havnt worked on them lately, i'm pretty sure i have it figured out though. ive been a little busy though

[A18A]

oh and the injectors are high impedance ones, here's what i have found:

Manufacturer	cc/m	Color	Ohms	lb/h	HP	kPa	PSI	Make		Engine


Nippon Denso  	213  	beige  	13.8  	20.9  	42.6  	290  	42	Toyota  	4AGE

should be all good running without the resistor box right? even though they still squirt petrol with it..

is 213cc a bit slack for the almighty b20a?

next time i work on it i will try adjusting the fuel pressure

[Vector]

one thing i did when i did my itb's was i when went bought a autometer air/fuel gauge... they are not perfect... but it does tell you if your to lean or rich. you dont haaaave to get an autometer one, i did because it was the only one readily available in my area.

from there on out, i could kinda see what the engine was doing... plus it looks cool.

213cc injectors, should be ok for now if your not driving redline everywhere you go.. whats stock 240cc or something right..

13ohms... your safe.. those are high impedance injectors.

[Hauntd ca3]

try a set of gt4 injectors or 4agze one
think they are meant to be round 350 to 400 cc

[A18A]

are they side feed ones?

[Hauntd ca3]

dunno
will talk to a mate whos a toyota freak and ask

[AccordB20A]

man i missed this thread. top work anyway good score on the $50 4 AGE ge