say i wanna drop a few hundred pounds off my hatch without really sacrifiicing huge componants like speakers seats etc. anyone got suggestions on what i could do to shed some weight?
say i wanna drop a few hundred pounds off my hatch without really sacrifiicing huge componants like speakers seats etc. anyone got suggestions on what i could do to shed some weight?
eat less
kidding..
your going to have to ditch the rear seats, panels,spare tire. maybe remove the factory sound damping material
ditch the full A/C system the parts behind the dash and everything also if u dont live in a cold place ditch the heater as well
also like pico said
and relocating the battery to trunk helps with the weight distribulation yes i know i cant spell for shit
1988 Honda Accord LX-i Coupe 123k miles.
distribulation
AWESOME
not much you can do unless you wanna pull your car apart and reassemble it.
Get a sawzall and remove everything behind the bumpers, then put the bumper covers back on. Sure, you're fucked if you hit something, but just don't hit anything.
full ac removal like 60 pounds,
spare tire jack ect removal 40 pounds, plus a pound or two for fix a flat cans
thats a few things off the top of my head,
come to wisconsin let it rust like my poor car when i got it =[ rusted everywhere but 213,000 carbed going strong so its a litte lighter not in a good way tho, but freebies ftw!
alll interior (door panels, dash, heater core, a/c, seats, carpet, sound dampening etc...), remove all the p/s, a/c, brackets in the engine bay. upgrade the whole exhaust system, that will shave a few kg off, some light weight wheels, chop out any unneeded metal, wear only your boxers and a shirt, shave yourself frequently and so on..
take out the windows
1989 Honda Accord LX-i
B18c1 swap since 7/2011
175whp and 132tq
Redzone tuned
That one's beyond spelling..you're making up words like e-40..Originally Posted by Dark_Accord
I don't know about a stock car, it might help with understeer, but I'm putting my battery back up front. I remember following my friend in his wrx with a case of beer, a couple bags of ice, my sub, and the battery mounted in the back of my hatch..my car got sideways around a sharp corner and I ended up doing a real crazy drift. Surprised the shit out of me, but at least my friend thought I did it on purpose. It was also funny because he just about went off the road in his new car too.
But the real reason I'm putting it back up front is the right front tire always spins, and I heard that if you have a rear mounted battery, you need to have an external switch to be able to race at the dragstrip, I don't know if that's really true, but fuck that. It'll probably be a pain to build my new intake tubing to accomodate the battery, but whatever.
It also saves a tiny bit of weight to keep the battery in the oem location, since you don't have to run a thick, heavy positive cable all the way back up front.
Anyone want to sell me a battery tray setup? I got rid of my old setup about 5 years ago and there isn't a single 3g in a junkyard in my whole state..
What I've done for weight reduction is removal of the a/c, the winshield washer setup, the rear wiper, rear brake light, and and the install of a lighter motor too, of course. I was going to do a pass side fenderwell exhaust setup, but that's illegal everywhere, so I've decided against that, I guess. That would have saved the weight of most of the piping, all the shields above it, and even the 10mm bolts holding the shield in place..it all adds up. There are a lot of little things you can do that indirectly reduce weight while adding performance too, for instance, a header weighs less than the cast manifold, and a S2 or aebs intake manifold weighs less than the oem 88/89 2 stage piece of shit.
I also plan on building a lighter sub box, and maybe getting a lighter jack to replace my scissor jack. There is some type of jack that looks like an airbag and I doubt it weighs shit. I know better than to get rid of my spare though, I've had way too many flats to even consider that.
Last edited by Accordtheory; 05-31-2008 at 04:11 PM.
indibidtydooblee maing
1988 Honda Accord LX-i Coupe 123k miles.
Replace the spare and jack with a can of fix-a-flat
Remove the sound deadening from the floorpan
If you can stand it, strip the trunk of the lining
Depower your power steering rack and remove the pump and lines
Lighter wheels and tires
Personally, since you have a hatch, I'd pull the rear seats and carpet the whole car and put in a false floor where the spare sits. Would look cool and reduce weight.
I'm guessing you're like me and would keep the AC.
I wouldn't get rid of any of the safety structure that's hidden beneath the bumpers. I've seen too many people not watching what they're doing and run through a light to get rid of that stuff.
you USA'isns need some JDM bumpers, only nothing behind them just a bit of metal holding them straight haha lightweight
'Tis true.
http://www.nhra.com/contacts/tech_faq.html
This is why I undid my battery relocation. But, I had already put the terminal block for my Megasquirt where the battery originally was. So I decided to put in a large motorcycle battery instead of a car battery. It's literally half the size of the Optima red top I had in there before and weighs like half as much. And it starts the car exactly the same. Obviously it won't last as long as a full size battery if you like to kick mad bass without the engine running. But I don't do that, so it's fine. That battery I used is an Energizer 16CL-B. It was under $40 with a core return.
If you do this there might still enough room for an intake tube. If you want I can get some pictures tomorrow.
And if you really want, I can grab a battery tray the next time I'm at the yard. The Pick-n-Pull here has 234529803594 3gees.
C|
Good info. I might actually take you up on the offer to get me a battery tray too..
Just let me know about the battery tray. Not sure when I'll go to the yard next but it's been a pretty regular occurrence lately. If it's not raining I *may* go tomorrow since it's half price day.
Here is a picture of the battery in my 2g Prelude:
http://bluegreenlabs.com/Prelude/Mods/MotoBatt.jpg
Dimensions are about 7"x7"x4". Capacity is 19Ah with 240 CCA. It weighs less than 10 lbs.
C|
That is pretty cool. I'm usually pretty leery of getting small batteries though, I've had to push stat my damn car so many times, I can't even remember.
How much do you think the junkyard would want for the battery tray/brackets/etc, and how much would you want for your time?
I can't imagine much. Maybe $10-$15? Not much scrap value in a small bit of sheet metal. If I'm already out there it shouldn't take any more than a few minutes to pull one. If they're anything like my Prelude there are maybe 4-5 bolts and it comes right out.
Tell you what, how about $30 total and I'll cover shipping. PM me your address and let me know how you want to pay.
C|
id trade ya a battery trey for the battery relocation kit (Y)
1988 Honda Accord LX-i Coupe 123k miles.
Well, I didn't have much of a "kit", it was just a small plastic lined cooler with a zip top from wal mart. I just welded some thick washers to the floorpan and then some studs to those, they went up through the cooler to hold everything down. It was actually pretty incognito and secure, but it'd never pass the stupid track tech inspection.
Light weight 15" alloys
Light weight wheel nuts
Replace front and rear side glass with lexan glued in should be easy to do accord hatch rear glass is simple shape.
Put in bucket seats up front.
Remove the sound deadening with dry ice (aka Cheese style)
Remove back seats and all side panels, and boot panels sawzal out the metal inner panels and any other bits of metal that could be removed that no longer is needed and then rivet carbon sheeting to them to cover up the gaps, might need to be a bit more inventive for the fronts as you'll need door handle and locking.
If you have Central locking that can go too.
Remove the boot struts
Remove the bonnet and boot hinges as well as the locking mechanism's and replace with racing fixings to keep em down and in place.
Remove any odd bit's of metal brackets and bolts that just don't do a lot or nothing e.g that stupid cross member anti vibration mount thing, engine hoist bracket and bolts etc.etc.
Get rid of bumper girders U.K. and JDM cars don't have them just tinry strip of metal wihich holds the skin in place don't even have the foam behind the bumper skins. The front is still strong enough to withstand a large impact it will just make more of a mess of the car same for the rear end as well, if your that worriied about it maybe remove the stock girders and use some light weight tubing and have that welded to the frame instead still remove the foam inside though that does bugger all in accident.
Get a lightweight exhaust made up that has a carbon rear muffler either side exit or straight down the middle.
Carbon bonnet if you can get them still. If not then remove the sound deadening from inside and then cut out most of the webbing behind the panel.
Spare wheel and the tools can go replaced with can of squigy stuff or fill you tyres with that stuff they use on bikes that stop you getting puncture in first place!!
Remove mirrors and replace with racing lightweight ones including the interior mirror they are all heavy!!!
Buy some lightweight plastic framed speakers with neodynium magnets, a small lightweight 2 channel amp and plug it into a nice light IPOD Nano job done on stereo!! Obviosuly loose the rear speakers and subs are a no no no no no!!!
Then paint some stripes on the outside and add some car parts manufacturers stickers to make it look as racey as it does on the inside
On carbed Accords, removing the black box, oem carb, usless brackets, solenoids, rubber hoses, air cleaner housing, air pulser, and bolts will lose you about 80 pounds. The weber replacement is a lot lighter than the Oem carb itself too.
Aftermarket calipers, simplified exhaust components
Light weight alloy rims make a huge difference too, most has been listed here already. There is abundance of useless last minute engineering brackets on these cars that tear your hands and arms up.
I don't think the power steering weighs enough to worry about IMO, maybe use aluminum bolts and lose the cast iron brackets on the pump.
Last edited by 2oodoor; 06-09-2008 at 01:40 PM.
lol that metal is worth 10 cents a pound
im just gonna wait a year then completely strip out everything weigh the framing of the car itself and custom rebuild it with light weight components, lot of money, but a lot of speed for a flyweight accord
Seats and rails/sliders are very heavy. If you replace with bucket seats, try fix them with metal bracket without rails.
If your car is Injection, and if you keep OEM intake, you can remove resonator - big metal box sitting below the battery.
Can also replace the normal battery with some small battery - forgot the name but Nissan Pulsar had it as OEM.
If your car has electric window, replace with manual winder and ditch motors. Same, if your antenna is electric, change to non electric from JY.
Not sure if Stanley in US is selling Raybrig brand head light unit but they are made out of very light plastic even the front lens. They are very light compare to the OEM made out of metal and glass.
I am sure you are thinking about lightening to make your car go fast. If so, lightening below suspension is 5 times more effective compare to above suspension according to BBS (german wheel manufacturer). Means, if you lighten 1kg your wheel, that has the same effect of 5kg lightening of your car especially with its acceleration. So, check the wight of alloys you buy, there are amazing difference between heavy one and light ones. Also, choose lightest tires you can find - they say Michelin are the one of lightest among the top brands. For the same reason, don't go large alloys over 15inch unless it is forged super light wheel.
Good luck with your project
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