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Thread: How do you remove the metal water pipe that goes from the back of the water pump?

  1. #1

    RCracer's Avatar
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    How do you remove the metal water pipe that goes from the back of the water pump?

    I need to replace the metal water pipe on the back of the engine(B20a). The one that goes to the back of the water pump. It has a bolt at one end and is fastened in behind the water pump.
    How is it held in at the water pump end?
    I know it has a rubber gasket between the pipe and the block. Does the end of the pipe unscrew from the rest of the pipe?

    Thanks for any help.



  2. #2
    LXi User
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    I've only seen a diagram, but it seems that the pipe/gasket pushes into the pump end and is held in place by two clamps that go around the pipe and then are fastened to the block. What I'd like to know is how do you change it without taking the intake manifold off.

  3. #3

    YK86's Avatar
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    I just removed mine but it's the same for the A motor too. You need to unbolt the one bolt, and sort of pull on it while swinging it up and down. Make sure you replace the O-ring!
    www.b20accord.com

  4. #4

    RCracer's Avatar
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    Ive taken some pics of the pipe. It has a couple of pin holes and where one of the coolant pipes (small one) goes it has a slight leak (weeping).
    I can repair both the coolant pipe and the pin holes with solder but I needed to move the pipe to get to one of them.
    The pipe moves enough to turn it but it wont come off.
    I cant even find a mention of it in the honda/haynes/chiltern manuals.
    Last edited by RCracer; 09-22-2002 at 10:31 AM.
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  5. #5

    RCracer's Avatar
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    It doesnt look like it will come through. I will go out and try now.

    Just got it off. I didn't want to pull too hard this afternoon as I wasn't sure how it was held in. It was 14 years of corrosion and muck that was holding it in.
    Thanks
    Last edited by RCracer; 09-22-2002 at 10:30 AM.
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  6. #6
    3Geez Veteran smufguy's Avatar
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    i just unbolted the 10mm on the back of the block and spun it twice just to break it free from the corossion. then used a crow bar and just yanked it out. seemingly the rubber seal was in a good shape.

  7. #7
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    damn, I was hoping that it was going to be harder to get off then that, now I feel obligated to go out and get this pipe off now that you say its possible to do without taking the manifold off...



    I have the timing belt back on and the this head job is alsmost done...

    I was so close to starting this car back up again...

  8. #8

    86LXItooFAST4me's Avatar
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    the little stop on the top of the pipe where it intersthe block is to help it come out, just pull it straite up from the rear of the engie. the little stopper thingy will pull it out when you pull it up. and yes, MAKE SURE TO REPLACE THE O RING
    Last edited by 86LXItooFAST4me; 10-23-2004 at 10:39 AM.
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  9. #9
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    I cant see the old o ring, is it inside the block part where the pipe plugs in?

    I repaired the hole by brazing a new pipe in where the old one broke off...

    this is turning into the head job from hell, but Im so close!

  10. #10

    86LXItooFAST4me's Avatar
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    did you pull the pipe out yet? the o-ring on the inside is what keeps it in, just pull the pipe up and toward the front of the block and it will pop out. you have to remove it to replace the o-ring
    "Seriously, I have a half o' pack of Rolaids in my dipper" -Stewie (Family Guy)

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  11. #11
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    I cant thank you all enough for all the help...

    I got the pipe out for the most part. Now I have to put it back in. I pushed it back in, but it doesn't seem right. Its kind of floppin around in there, like it doesn't feel solid when I push the metal pipe back in.

    Im getting closer though... I'd hate to have to take the intake manifold off just because of the damn pipe. Is it even possible, or do will I have to take the head back off again to get to that area to hook all the rubber hoses up to that pipe?



    Its getting cold up here in the mountains, the ride to work every morning on the motorcycle is getting old... especially when there's frost covering the whole bike...

  12. #12

    86LXItooFAST4me's Avatar
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    hey, anyone know where i can get this O-Ring?? i need a new one as well. is there like a national seal part number would be perfect. i cannt find it.
    "Seriously, I have a half o' pack of Rolaids in my dipper" -Stewie (Family Guy)

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  13. #13

    carotman's Avatar
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    I think the guy behind the counter at your honda dealer will be your best bet...

    http://pages.videotron.com/omus
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    I need these parts!
    https://www.3geez.com/forum/showthread.php?t=67742

  14. #14
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    You can just any universal o ring if you have it in hand.. you can also buy an oring kit for $15 with every o ring you'll ever need...

    After I did this I still have a drip, I used coper fix a leak, been working find for about 200 miles so far city driving...

  15. #15
    3Geez Veteran smufguy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by conquestpa
    You can just any universal o ring if you have it in hand.. you can also buy an oring kit for $15 with every o ring you'll ever need...

    After I did this I still have a drip, I used coper fix a leak, been working find for about 200 miles so far city driving...
    rule number one: NEVER use any sealing additives in ur Cooling system.

    I think the seal did not sit right. Well if its a small leak. Go to Walmart or any parts store and grab a Silicone gasket maker and just put a small bead around the pipe. let it dry and drive away. It can withstand a lot of heat so dont worry. Next time, get it done right

  16. #16

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    http://www.torringtonhondaparts.com/...MOSTAT&yr=1989

    That's the # 22 part.... a 2 bucks O-ring

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  17. #17

    86LXItooFAST4me's Avatar
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    there is one hoda dealership here in austin and it sucks ass. takes like 5 days to get shit.
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