14 sec in the quarter, and all bone stock parts, wanna run money bags?
besides, who said they had to come from a honda any way?
If you stand on it in second, and your carb isn't tuned right, it will sputter and spit and be slow. It won't run OK in second gear and then sputter in third gear. That doesn't even make any sense... If you keep on it, like I said it will blow up. It's simple, don't mash the gas if it's sputtering and spitting. It just means you're running too lean probably. Tune the carb and it won't do that. I guarantee if it's spitting and sputtering it's not going to be as fast as it should be.
baby D --> Easy on the name calling. Seriously though, it's not that we're outright calling BS on this, but you're not telling us all that much, and it's not very easy to read through your posts because of all the typos and strange spelling. Not knocking you, but we just can't seem to make heads or tails out of your claims.
A 4 bbl can run on our cars (providing it can be jetted/choked down enough), but you're right, a 2 bbl would be much better suited for the 3G mainly because it's cfm is better matched to what the 3G flows stock. Hell, the 2 would be enough for a worked n/a build on a 3G. So, no-one's arguing that the 2 is better then the 4 for us, but if the damn thing runs, and starts making it through the rpm range, but then starts spitting and sputtering, I blame the tune or jetting. Either that, or the motor is just getting revv'd way too high. These are not VW's, nor B16's, they are single cam iron block, alum head, long stroke motors that can't handle extremely high rev's. But, you gear the tranny right, and there will be no need to go over 8K and still get a great power band and great gearing to pull hard all through the top of 5th gear.
Please understand that we're all here to try and think outside the box and be imaginative with ways to make this thing breath better and pull more power from these motors. To just jump on a thread like this, and start talking about 4 or 2 bbl carbs, and make some serious claims about performance, and have no pics, timeslips, etc to back it up, it's obvious we would question the validity of your claims.
Please stick around and help us with new ideas and tuning suggestions, etc, but please try and keep the name calling and 'i beat a viper' claims to someone else who will be impressed. Numbers don't lie, but stories tend to inflate themselves for the benefit of glory.
-Mark D.
well said Mark
as far as handling a four barrel, what is the difference in that and turbo boost or twin DCOE's , or hell even four flat sides.
Tuning it to acceptable stages of transition is the ticket. There is where we need the R&D for the 2300 sawed off two and smaller Holley four barrels. No the A20 is not going to stand up to 7-10K rpm pulls all the time with a bunch of gas dumping in it. But it will stand up to stout torque band of 2-5K rpm with a growling carb.
With the Weber 32-36 I seldom every even NEED to hit the secondaries, but having them is nice.. same would go for a four barrel.
babyD you talk a good game and I really would like to see that carb set up you had (have) also there are a few of us here that are Mopar fans as well. Bout a pic of that cuda, what year is it? BB or SB? wedge?
Last edited by 2oodoor; 11-10-2008 at 03:10 PM.
88 LX 5spd l 32/36 weber l KYB GR-2's l Refreshed A20A3 engine l
-Mark D.
I was going with 4 bbl and dividing the manifold... while this can hurt top end I was aiming for low/mid range and hopefully better mixture distribution. I can't get that with a 2bbl and I even though I could get it with an IR setup, thats not what I want. In reality my 4bbl is 2x2bbl.
- llia
shake the rods loose? uh you sound like you have other problems, what has the carb got to do with the rods? maby if you were overreving the engine, but the engine internals could care less what size carb you've got on there. why in the hell would your rods come loose at 3300 rpm? TURN THE BS DOWN!! IT"S SHAKING YOUR ENGINE TO DEATH!! I MEAN BASS
UH that idle,I sure hope so. your ignorance is showing. I'm not name calling I'm BS calling. anybody who reads through that entire page you wrote knows betterseriously guys under 10000 rpm a 2 berells enough,
can anyone translate troll?i have to have something to drive, ive decided my beracuda is more important to me than my three gee, oh yeahand the pcv tub from the chamer to the manifold, it uh hit the dirt to
i alredy washed the oil off the windsheild
poor car just didnt like eatin that volkswagon for lunch, oh well
don't come on here and talk bull to the people who have been researching this stuff for years,and have spent a lot of time figuring it out, if you have a legitimate point is one thing, but not rambling about how your car with the pcv tube that hit the ground and has a bad rod runs 13's. you will be quickly flame broiled. a lot of people on this site have excellent BS vision and can see right through it. if you want to see an a20 that can actually run low numbers,look for Johnny O's stuff, his is a legitimate drag car that has tons of time,research and money put into it. and he has plenty of proof to back it up. It's by far the fastest car on this site, and probably the fastest three g period.
Last edited by lostforawhile; 11-11-2008 at 07:15 PM.
look at piercemanifolds.com look under aircleaners and velocity stacks,that have the small foam filters and the stainless steel filters that fit in the bells of those
Yeah, I looked into those already because I don't yet have any air cleaners for my carbs, and don't know which of the many options I'm going to go with. I'm getting conflicting stories from various legitimate carb guys. A number of them have pointed directly to the horn on the velocity stacks and mentioned that the only air cleaner they would ever consider would not touch the top of the stack because the shape of the horn assists airflow to the point that I would notice reduced performance if anything would be put on to impede flow on the horn edges. Long story short, many have said avoid the 'sock' style filters like the plague. Other though, have said that it makes no difference at all, and those other stories are just bunk.
Honestly, I'm leaning toward fabricating an air box with a filter at face of the box to allow a huge chamber of clean air flowing freely into the stacks. Just not sure from where I'm going to force-feed the air to the box.
-Mark D.
I like mine personally!! or this one worked quite well as well!!
Was very revvy with the short runners!! ET1 head is the tits though!!
Damn you and your ET1 head. You need to find another one and send it to me.
C|
They've got em in Canada too. One of these days, I'm gonna head up there and snag me a few. It was so tempting last time I was up there and saw em at the wrecking yard, but I just didn't have the money...![]()
as soon as things look up a bit on money,i will get my project done, almost finished but with the economy taking a crap, just can't swing the 600 bucks on rebuilds on the SU's right now. I would do it myself,but the throttle shafts are leaking and thats a pro job to fix. I could do it,but these particular carbs are super rare JDM ones,and I don't want to ruin them.
if anyone wants to make any attempt at a 4bbl, this is a good price on a good carb...
http://hartford.craigslist.org/pts/946319805.html
-Mark D.
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