just wondering if anyone knew aprox. how much it would cost to have
2.25" cat back done with no res and if i supplied the muffler and removed the exhuast and brought it in so they can just copy the bends and shit
just wondering if anyone knew aprox. how much it would cost to have
2.25" cat back done with no res and if i supplied the muffler and removed the exhuast and brought it in so they can just copy the bends and shit
1988 Honda Accord LX-i Coupe 123k miles.
It really depends on the shop. Just call around and get an estimate.
Sam
1989 Accord LX: Sold with 208k-now somewhere around 230k with new owner
Current:
2014 Elantra Sport 6MT
2000 Montero Sport 4x4 (beater, trail rig)
yep planing calling some shops on Mondayj/w what others have paid so i know weather its a good deal or major rip off lolz
1988 Honda Accord LX-i Coupe 123k miles.
I really don't see a need to have a 2.25" exhaust on a car in need of engine work.
Sam
1989 Accord LX: Sold with 208k-now somewhere around 230k with new owner
Current:
2014 Elantra Sport 6MT
2000 Montero Sport 4x4 (beater, trail rig)
i had a 3" catback with a a 3a racing muffler for $250... pretty much just paid for the piping and the muffler they had layin around from some other ricer, and gave it to the new ricer.. me
i thnk u shouldnt pay more then $150, i think...
engine dont really need engine work it just needs the valves adjusted and a full gasket set
1988 Honda Accord LX-i Coupe 123k miles.
true sounds about rightOriginally Posted by gfrg88
i plan to get a OBX muffler
1988 Honda Accord LX-i Coupe 123k miles.
Do the gaskets first then.engine dont really need engine work it just needs the valves adjusted and a full gasket set
Sam
1989 Accord LX: Sold with 208k-now somewhere around 230k with new owner
Current:
2014 Elantra Sport 6MT
2000 Montero Sport 4x4 (beater, trail rig)
arnt you getting rid of it in august?
cant due to the fact there is no were to work on my car here im waiting tel i have a garage or atleast a driveway do to that
1988 Honda Accord LX-i Coupe 123k miles.
It really doesn't take that much area to do the oil pan and such, but I understand.
Sam
1989 Accord LX: Sold with 208k-now somewhere around 230k with new owner
Current:
2014 Elantra Sport 6MT
2000 Montero Sport 4x4 (beater, trail rig)
nope most likey keep fixing this one up then if i happen to find a clean 3gee for cheap ill buy it and swap parts over
1988 Honda Accord LX-i Coupe 123k miles.
^^ do not get the exhaust first. Fix every last thing that is wrong with your car first then get the exhaust.
Lostforawhile:we have to pick on him he's CAH he spray painted himself into this corner with the accord.
agree, your spending money on things not needed at the moment, bars leak is a permanent fix you'll still have gasket problem down the road
X3
LX-R coming soon Here's a hint. 89mm stroke/ 41.60cc head /ARP head & main stud's /SRP piston's 81.5mm 9:5:1/Crower Rod's & more to come
well i had to change my cat out (old one was burning and was a fire hazarded) so i got a test pipe and a few members told me with a test pipe i will blow the stock muffler out
and i think it would be lame to have a new muffler welded to stock piping
1988 Honda Accord LX-i Coupe 123k miles.
O_O then were talking $1000's worth of body work ..
engine pretty much only needs things that i cant do here
timing belt,gasket kit,transmission and theres no were here to do any of thos i can get fined for working in the street to hence why i only like to do things i can do in less then a hours time (N)
i know its not permanent fix but i cant do anything about it tel my rents stop using the car and i have a garage or drive way to work in
1988 Honda Accord LX-i Coupe 123k miles.
i think i paid like 180 for my 2.25 inch exhuast...i provided high flow cat and muffler....it was a fair deal but not the best...
1989 Honda Accord LX-i
B18c1 swap since 7/2011
175whp and 132tq
Redzone tuned
I didn't mean fix every last thing that's wrong with the body. The idea is to get the car running perfectly before you put on performance mods. The only reason I put on my custom exhaust is because we have a law here that if you spend more than a certain amount on emissions related parts you get a waiver for the year. So this year it was exhaust. Next year it'll be the new carburetor I put on in January. Yay for weber, and stupid emissions testers!O_O then were talking $1000's worth of body work ..
engine pretty much only needs things that i cant do here
timing belt,gasket kit,transmission and theres no were here to do any of thos i can get fined for working in the street to hence why i only like to do things i can do in less then a hours time (N)
i know its not permanent fix but i cant do anything about it tel my rents stop using the car and i have a garage or drive way to work in
Lostforawhile:we have to pick on him he's CAH he spray painted himself into this corner with the accord.
true i just don't want my car sound bad once i put the straight pipe on X_X
but yeah i decided to put my money in to some other work it needs like a new speedo cable
1988 Honda Accord LX-i Coupe 123k miles.
never heard that... why would it do that, ive helped friends out and my self put on a test pipe on stock exhaust.. no problems...
yeah I thought it was a little odd too. Especially since not having a cat wouldn't make your exhaust any hotter. If anything it would be cooler.
Lostforawhile:we have to pick on him he's CAH he spray painted himself into this corner with the accord.
no what i think he meant, is the honey comb in the cat started melting or sometimes they just get blow out and it started clogging the exhaust, air couldnt flow as well, heat builds up
i got a 2.25" die-bent (not mandrel, but not as bad as crinkle-bent either) aluminized for $80, and I supplied the muffler (an el-cheapo 2.25" center/offset) from AutoZone to the tune of $25.
Make sure whatever you pay, or whatever you put on that they do not weld the exhaust directly to the cat. A lot of places do this. They just cut the stock flanges off and weld everything together. The guy I use has done at least 4-5 cars for me, and every time he welds flanges where they belong so pieces can be removed and replaced as needed, just as the stock one is. (Except he does a full one-piece from cat to muffler.
Most of the guys out there that know what they're doing would prefer you bring the entire car to them so they could bend it up and fit it to the car. If they just follow the stock bends, sometimes there's un-needed bends in the stock one, and sometimes things get very tight so the stock one would fit, but the larger diameter will not. It just makes for a much better fitment when they have the entire car too.
-Mark D.
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