Well, I am going to cam my car (87 Prelude Si A deries ftw!) and I was looking at colts stuff and was wondering who here has a colt cam, either a stage 1 or stage 2 in there A3 and how they like it. I was considering the stage 1 since I think I will go turbo in the near future, but would a stage 2 also work? and how much has it affected your fuel economy?
it will have a negative impact on your fuel economy, i would reccomend against going with a triflow grind.
429whp 362wtq A20 TURBO. A20T>*
i got a colt stage 2 tri-flow cam......say hello to 22-25mpg...and full pull at 3-redline rpm....my cam blew my clutch
1989 Honda Accord LX-i
B18c1 swap since 7/2011
175whp and 132tq
Redzone tuned
What do you mean it blew your clutch? So it wasn't your engine afterall making the noise? Didn't you have the red pressure plate? Rjudgey runs over 160hp through his...Originally Posted by MessyHonda
i ment my stock clutch....after my OBD1 swap, headers and stage 2 cam. my clutch started slipping and it died cuz at high rpm its like it hits vtak...yo
....thats why i went with a stage 3 clutch....even my 16 inch rims cant make it slip even in 2nd gear....it just chirps going into 2nd
1989 Honda Accord LX-i
B18c1 swap since 7/2011
175whp and 132tq
Redzone tuned
It was able to generate enough power to make your clutch slip? shit...Anyone use the stage 1 tri flow? any complaints on it?
What's wrong with the triflow grinds?
I have a stage 1 triflow in my Prelude (A20 also). Works fine. It's not quite as aggressive as the stage 1 Delta (272) but it's decent. It can also get decent mileage too if you have a tuneable ECU. Last fill up I calculated 33+MPG. That's mostly highway miles but I wasn't babying it. I think it can do a little better.
C|
you got to remember your car is lighter than our cars and you have a fresh engine....my cam was tuned also but the best i could pull was about 28mpg and that is hwy miles
1989 Honda Accord LX-i
B18c1 swap since 7/2011
175whp and 132tq
Redzone tuned
28 highway with a stage 2? what speed do you cruise at?
i have oversized tires so that might of helped. and when i cruise i go around 70mph...but that is just highway....in the city it drops to about 22mpg....my car runs rich so it needs to get retuned.
1989 Honda Accord LX-i
B18c1 swap since 7/2011
175whp and 132tq
Redzone tuned
True, mine is lighter but the wind drag will be very similar, which is what mostly matters at highway speed. Around town weight will matter more.
Mid 20s is not terrible though, and a stage 2 cam will start eating into mileage more than a stage 1.
Does Cali have a tailpipe test or is it all visual? If they don't actually do a gas analysis test you can retune for leaner mixtures under cruise conditions. I'm running around 16:1 at cruise and 15:1 at medium throttle. I'm not sure how that will work with OBDx and the O2 sensor though. In my case I have a wideband O2 sensor that acts as an indicator only. The ECU doesn't use it to control AFR, it just shows what it is. Tuning is done manually to make the AFR whatever I want it to be based on MAP and RPM.
Anyway, the point was that your mileage may be affected but it should still be decent. And it can be even better with tuning.
C|
the old school thought* used to be anything that made it run more efficiently regarding tune would increase your MPG but you have to stay out of the gas pedal!!! You can adjust the cam timing with a ACG even with the stage 2, so you can get the powerband in the torque range you need it so it does not go to waste. ( thought: less throttle opening needed for cruise speed)
This is turning into a good read. Anymore cam threads I can hit up?
Remeber boys and girls Coupes rule, Hatchies drule, and 4 doors are for mothers..........
Yep! This is turning into quite a need to know Cam thread on this board...
I think if I get my A1 cam re-ground, I will have Delta do there 272 since they are pretty cheap. Hopefully after I get my 4-2-1 installed and a cam, I should be getting some major 3-7k power where I really need it. It climbs to 6.5 easy in first and second, but from 4k to 6 in third is like 5 seconds.
Bass like Base... Not fish.
I would think the stage 1 would work the best for me as I am planning on going turbo in a few months (10psi) and i do not want something with alot of overlap. Did anyone notice alot of difference in the stage 1? like around 5,000 and up? I am mostly nervous about reving my motor that high as i have heard horror storries about wrist pins and connecting rods taking a shit around there...
I've managed to get just over 30mpg on a 400 mile trip up to North of England and back on one tank of fuel, this was with a fully built engine with twin Weber DCOE's and big valve conversion and a 272 degree camshaft i don't think the 285 degree one would have made that much difference the idea is to use the extra torque of the engine and keep it at that point and to never use anymore than just lightly touching throttle that way you'll allways just use the idle jet circuit which have much smaller jetting than the mains which if you use on DCOE's you'll start seeing your fuel gauge drop rather rapidly in front of your eyes!!!
My Beemer that had some tweeks done and a rather good re-map that has increased economy when cruising and in town due to the extra torque you just don't need to put your foot down although when you do even being diesel and only a 2.0l turbo it can drop to as little as 15mpg when WOT is used
The cam on mine is still stock, but I've got a 38 weber on there. It revs to 6500 no problem. It really likes sitting in the 4000 to 5000 range I've noticed.
Lostforawhile:we have to pick on him he's CAH he spray painted himself into this corner with the accord.
interesting
now tell how it felt like you did a lot more to it than switch carbs, huh huh
Mine sure felt that way
^^ lol yeah it did. It feels like a completely different car now. Much more aggressive. I love screwing around with all the ricers now. Especially since my car looks really slow.
Lostforawhile:we have to pick on him he's CAH he spray painted himself into this corner with the accord.
5000 is no problem for any Honda in halfway decent shape. The factory red line is 6200.
C|
Theres no point flogging a dead horse if it's not making power after 6k rpm you'll excellerate quicker by changing earlier and using the torque of the engine, i've proven this on the 1/4mile track mine revs very easily to 7000k but if you change at just after peak bhp which is around 6k and you come in nicely on the peak torque which then helps excellerate you back upto the peak bhp again, maybe you'll find it more benefitial to have Teggy gearbox conversion.
Preciseley ^^^^
What is the benifit to a integra trans? shorter gears? I have a prelude SI trans
integra gears are the shortest gears we can put in....i have them and it made the car way more fun to drive...but it made it louder since it has to rev higher...it made the car seam like it had a different engine.
1989 Honda Accord LX-i
B18c1 swap since 7/2011
175whp and 132tq
Redzone tuned
I wonder, has anyone ever done before and after 1/4 mile runs with and without the 'teg gears? Would they really make a difference? You can rev quicker but you still have the same HP.
C|
Posting Permissions
Reply With Quote
Bookmarks