Possible vapor lock/fuel problem

[88accordlxcarb]

I basically get about 15 feet out of my driveway/anywhere and the car loses power. Only does this when the car is at normal operating temperature. Basically bogs then dies. I suspect either fuel or electrical. I first thought there was an obstruction in the lines(filters), so i replaced several of the rubber hoses and changed the fuel filters. Worked fine for a couple days then the same thing happened. I dont think it is the filters, but just an random problem caused by something else. It seems to only happen after i turn the car off wait a certain amount of time then turn the car on and drive.

Other times(like in the morning) it works fine. I drove to class today and back. It sat for 30-45 minutes, went to start it again and that is when i made it about 15-30 feet before it just lost all power and died. Would not start. I left it for about 2 hours came back and after cranking it for a second it started. Drove it home after that with no problems.

I have also considered it might be the fuel pump going out, but i replaced it only about 2-3 years ago. When it does run, it has plenty of power even in the 3000-4000RPM range with speeds 60-70MPH.

Since it is a carb, vapor lock? Can anyone shed some light on where i should be looking?

88 LX

Thanks

[88accordlxcarb]

Perhaps a move to the carb forum would result in more responses?

Any moderator want to do that for me that would be cool.

[89T]

way back in the day when a car would vapor lock we would clip 3 or 4 wood close line hangers/clip deals to the fule line close to the carb. It works but not always.

[steveko]

Could be electrical causing the fuel problem.

When it happens again look at the float site glass on the carb and see if there's fuel in site glass.

If not could be the fuel pump relay acting up.

[Dr_Snooz]

I'd like to see a video of this. Might help with diagnosis.

[88accordlxcarb]

Ok here is what i have so far:

I think i have ruled out vapor lock. I tested most of the emission controls that deal with vapor from the carb. Thermovalve A ,the charcoal canister, hoses 18-19 going to the choke opener and the fast idle unloader, carburetor thermovalve, etc... The fast idle unloader isnt working too well, but i dont think this is the problem.

SO

I have figured out that the car only dies when it is around 3-4PM outside and really really hot. Its around 100 at that time here. I start the car fine, drive around 15-30 feet and it just dies. I cant restart until i let it sit for 30-45 minutes to cool down. IT ALSO only dies after the engine is fully warm. So we have a really hot engine which is off and dissipating heat into the engine compartment and it is really hot outside.

What can be affected by this? Coil? I pulled one of the wires off yesterday when it was hot, and it was sparking when i was cranking the starter.

ALSO, after it sits and cools for 30-45 minutes, i have to crank it a LONG time before it turns over, like 6-10 seconds with me pressing the gas, then it will start.

Thanks.

[lostforawhile]

Ok here is what i have so far:

I think i have ruled out vapor lock. I tested most of the emission controls that deal with vapor from the carb. Thermovalve A ,the charcoal canister, hoses 18-19 going to the choke opener and the fast idle unloader, carburetor thermovalve, etc... The fast idle unloader isnt working too well, but i dont think this is the problem.

SO

I have figured out that the car only dies when it is around 3-4PM outside and really really hot. Its around 100 at that time here. I start the car fine, drive around 15-30 feet and it just dies. I cant restart until i let it sit for 30-45 minutes to cool down. IT ALSO only dies after the engine is fully warm. So we have a really hot engine which is off and dissipating heat into the engine compartment and it is really hot outside.

What can be affected by this? Coil? I pulled one of the wires off yesterday when it was hot, and it was sparking when i was cranking the starter.

ALSO, after it sits and cools for 30-45 minutes, i have to crank it a LONG time before it turns over, like 6-10 seconds with me pressing the gas, then it will start.

Thanks.

swap in a spare ignition module in the dizzy,this is what it does when it's failing. the electronics go bad and they get really heat sensitive. had this problem car would run for a while then just shut off. used to be able to diagnose this with a spray can of component chiller. you would take off the cap when the dizzy was hot then cool off the modue if it started working again,it was the problem, problem is i think that stuff was freon in a can,which you can't buy anymore. find you a spare good module and swap it,this is the best thing i know of. a new one is pretty steep so try and find a used one. oh and vapor lock shouldn't be a problem on this car. vapor lock was more of a problem with old engine mounted metal fuel pumps. the fuel inside would get hot and vaporize,so the pump couldn't pump new fuel.

[88accordlxcarb]

Could i use a can of compressed air turned upside down? It sprays freezing stuff.

What is the dizzy? And , im sure i can look in the book, but can i just spray this stuff in the keyhole, or do i need to take about the dash a little?

[lostforawhile]

Could i use a can of compressed air turned upside down? It sprays freezing stuff.

What is the dizzy? And , im sure i can look in the book, but can i just spray this stuff in the keyhole, or do i need to take about the dash a little?

keyhole? dash? you spray the module in the dizzy,you take off the cap under the hood take off the distributor cap, that module in there gets hot and if it's going you will have a lot of problems. also check all your hoses on the bottom of the air cleaner,they can cause the car to stall when hot if they are leaking.

[88accordlxcarb]

Gotcha. I was just confused with that and the ignition switch in the dash.

I will try that when i can get ahold of some freezing stuff!

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