get hellas or autopals not ebay cheap lights lol
ebay ones will leak sept for autopals and hella
get hellas or autopals not ebay cheap lights lol
ebay ones will leak sept for autopals and hella
1988 Honda Accord LX-i Coupe 123k miles.
I had a feeling about that.
What you need sir, are JDM / European headlights:
I think they look so rockin' on the hatches.
I'm still waiting on mine to get shipped!
omg ive been wanting a pair for so long.Originally Posted by 2ndGenGuy
I had a feeling about that.
What you need sir, are JDM / European headlights:
I think they look so rockin' on the hatches.
I'm still waiting on mine to get shipped!
how did you get yours? did you get the clear corners too? whered you buy them from?
i just dont know where to find them.
share the wealth of knowledge 2ndgenguy!!!! where can we get these booty-ful lights?
its just better to get some H4 lights
1989 Honda Accord LX-i
B18c1 swap since 7/2011
175whp and 132tq
Redzone tuned
well the lights inside the projectors are H4s
WOOT!! im goin to pick up a pair of HIDs for the low beams and just stay with the sealed beam high beams for now. found out i had more money to blow than i did haha
I still have to get my act togeather to send 2ndgen. the sedan corner lights I have for him. The late hatches really need the different grille & frt panel too though adding to shipping $$$$. (unless you modified a local one to match)
Plastic headlight covers smoothing off the shape would be easy & cheap to make.
Last edited by 79cord; 06-25-2008 at 02:45 PM.
Oh yeah, it wasn't you I was referring to. I haven't even sent you money yet! No no worries on your part.
I did, however send some money some time ago to someone else for the lights themselves...
alright so i picked up a set of 8000k HIDs, tomorrow im gonna get different housings and install them. then i think ill just do what 79cord suggested and get some smoked plexiglass or something and make a lens cover to make it sit flush with the grill.
ok so im in need of some help..
since i dont have to smog the car anymore. what vaccuum lines can i get rid of to make the car run better without messing anything up?
You are sort of on your own on that one. The carb is very similar to the carb on the 3g, but with a third barrel... so there's double some things, and some are routed differently....
You might grab a factory service manual, and print out the 3gee de-vacuuming guide in the HowTo or the FAQ or somewhere on this site. Then what I would do is compare the systems they remove in that guide to the systems on your car and start undoing them one by one. Start the car after each step and take it for a drive and see how it goes.
Over on PreludePower, a guy with a 1g Prelude managed to de-vacuum his CVCC carburetor. That might be more similar to the stock carb on the 2g Accord I would guess. Maybe send him a PM, his name is fullthrottle_man. Super cool guy, tell him I sent ya! He might have a few tips.
What I would recommend though, is ditching the stock carb completely. Grab a Weber Kit from one of the sites I listed in the 2nd Gen performance FAQ and rip everything out. Toss an EGR blockoff plate on it, cut the AS and EGR tubes out, grab a Prelude 4-2-1 manifold and clean it up a bit, port match it, and toss it on for some more power to match the extra juice the Weber will put in. You'll really love how the car goes after that. You might have to have the downpipe cut and welded to the rest of the exhaust as I don't think the flange will be the exact distance to the catalytic converter.
Last edited by 2ndGenGuy; 06-29-2008 at 10:09 PM.
1g Prelude (1979-82) is the EL/EK engine like equivalent years Accord though. So not much good for '84 model.
& 2nd gen Preludes only came with twin carbs or fuel injection (for Australia, in case US got a cheaper spec) so not too usefull for reference either.
Right, well I was thinking that the carbs might still be very similar though. 3bbl downdraft carb with almost all the same emissions systems. All the same CVCC stuff, just routed differently. While the engines are totally different, the carbs still seem pretty damn close as far as how they work and vacuum systems go as well.
so ive been thinking lately... i was about to do a turbo b16 swap into my hatch.
before i joined this site i didnt even know about the a20. so im debating which one to go with..
i could go with a b16, turbo, LSD, 5 speed, wire tuck. full suspension upgrade...
or...
a fully built forged everything, turbo A20, with 3g prelude suspension.
A20 would be cheaper. and i could still drive the car while building the engine and it bolts up. to current trans and motor mounts.
but the b16 would be a little on the expensive side. and id be out of a car for about 3 months while the guy has it apart to do custom motor mounts and axles and everything.
i lean more toward the b16 just because its different and possible to do.
i dont know... what do all you guys think??
thats the thing im debating. i got like 3k to spend....on a fully built A20...if built right it can do like 160-180WHP...or just got with a GSR engine that does like 150whp...but the only thing would be that GSR engines are expensive...this guy on craigslist wanted 1700 for a swap but he told me it had less than 100k....that is way too high. or just save my 3000 and put it as a downpayment for a civic and swap an h22 or even k20 in it.
1989 Honda Accord LX-i
B18c1 swap since 7/2011
175whp and 132tq
Redzone tuned
yea the guy i was talking to to do the swap said a full b16 swap with turbo, lsd, 5 speed, suspension, wire tuck, custom axles, custom motor mounts would be 7,500-8,000.
but... a b16 stock = ~150HP and i have a magazine somewhere that they did a stock b16 and turboed it and tuned it to 507HP
but i could do teh a20 fully built and turbo it and get not as much power but i could do it cheaper and sooner.
so i keep kicking myself in the butt trying to decide what to do
yeah i think a member here with turbo hit 234whp on a20. thats not bad at all expecially when your car is light. i was thinking turbo but i need something NA that wont get me pulled over. too much. you might as well go with a GSR engine since its .2L bigger...trust me no stock engine will ever last 500hp...the rings will go and they are opendeck so they wont take alot of pressure unless you sleeve the block...we can talk motors when we meet up...haha
1989 Honda Accord LX-i
B18c1 swap since 7/2011
175whp and 132tq
Redzone tuned
I think you'd be surprised what a turbo A20 will do. A stock A20 with a turbo pushing 200hp would be probably as much as you'd wanna try to handle in a FWD car anyways unless you want to drag it. You can always toss a Phantom Grip or similar LSD into the A/ES tranny and put some bigger tires up front. 200HP in a 2g hatch is going to pretty much destroy any newer Honda with 250+hp simply due to the lighter weight. Plus the A20 is plentiful, cheap, and there is not much demand for parts, which is good to keep your price down.
Also, not sure how your guy was planning on going about that 3g Prelude suspension. That would require some mega-engineering, IMO. The advantages of the double-wishbone aren't really going to be worth the price you're going to be paying not to mention the extra weight that suspension system will add to your car. You can get a MacPherson setup to handle just fine (look at the RSX w/ front Mac struts) with good springs, shocks, swaybars and modifying the existing suspension to support a full race alignment.
And what would be cooler than opening the hood and seeing an old A-series motor with a turbo? Everybody is going to expect a B16 in there. If you blow up a B16, it's going to cost you some $$$$$ blow up the A20, snag another for $150 and drop it in. Honestly, I think the A20 would hold up better anyways.
Weight is the advantage your car has that most don't. Keep it light and it will go fast and handle better for way less money.
weight is a phantom advantage for the 2g IMO cuz alot of ppl look at the size and quickly compare it to a civic or something in their head to size u up. throw in the a20 w/turbo and get the Macpherson setup and u'll be blowing away built gsr's cuz anyone driving one isnt gonna give u enough credit til u leave em in the dust lol let me know how the a20 swap goes too. i think thats the direction im going as well. i already got the beautiful gears of the 2g lude sittin on my es2 so im hoping with the a20 i can have a leg up on the hole shot haha
Re: 84 accord hatch newest project
buuuut
i might be entering it in HIN.
during registration it asks for a club name/affiliation. soooooo heres the good part...
i put down 3geez. so i hope i can get the site and group out there.
what do you think? should i go for it?
Fuck yeah why not? Do eeeeeeet!!!!!
buuuut
i might be entering it in HIN.
during registration it asks for a club name/affiliation. soooooo heres the good part...
i put down 3geez. so i hope i can get the site and group out there.
what do you think? should i go for it?
fluck yeah mang
ok so ill do it.
so that gives me about 2 months to get the rest of the car done looks wise.
Re: 84 accord hatch newest project
minor update.
ordered black carpet, passenger sparco seat to match drivers seat and 100sq ft of sound deadening today.
pick up seat tuesday and have to wait 3-8 days on carpet and sound deadening
hopefully next weekend most of the interior will be wrapped up.
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