Gp02a0083's hatchie thread

[Hondamonster]

very nice, just lower it!

[gp02a0083]

cool you took off the rust the right way

yupp yupp gotta get all the cancer/rust off, best way is cutting panels

nicely done my friend, nicely done. ...I really like that black rocker. I've been thinking of doing that for a while now, and now I know what it'll look like (kinda).

the rocker was done with Rustoleum professional undercoating, i was in too much of a rush and my jeans caught some of the paint. i was hesitant on painting it black , it turned out somewhat good, however this will only be temporary until i decide to paint more of the car

very nice, just lower it!

nah , Ive decided on keeping the stock ride height, roads around my area aren't the best


i took her out in the rain today to see if the repairs i made fixed the leaking problem , seems that it worked but i still found a tiny bit of water in some spots, ill have to take care of that tomorrow after my interview

[gp02a0083]

ok so no pictures just yet, i've got slot of parts sitting in my room waiting to be installed , Im just waiting on the rear adjustable ball joints. However i need to focus more on the body as rust is starting to chew away.

So help me guys i need a few things , i posted this in the WTB section and did not get much of a response.
Im looking for a rust free lift gate for my hatch back ( any color doesn't matter must come with the glass), the bottom pinch weld is rusting out from one side to another , probably due to the last owner trying to caulk the bottom window molding in and not sealing it right.

another little bit is that my passenger side door handle decided to break at the thin-est point it can, so im looking for another passenger side door handle from a coupe or hatch , ideally i would like to find a gold/Seattle silver handle but any color will do

now the big one, im trying to find a donor car or someone who would cut a piece of the driver side 1/4 panel that surrounds the gas tank area and includes the inner pocket for the filler neck.

Guys help me out , i don't want to have to get rid of her or find another car all togeather b/c of some rust

[gtmst3]

i might be able to get you those parts at the local junk yard however im in CT and i know shiping a hatch lift gate would be kinda expendsive and i dont think it would fit in my car i think we have a silver hatch and a gold coupe well at least they did like 2 weeks ago i could check for you though

[carotman]

You can buy the fuel filler pocket at the dealer. It's not that expensive.

[gp02a0083]

You can buy the fuel filler pocket at the dealer. It's not that expensive.

hmm, yah i kinda figured , being that they rivit a junky one in there if the car has not had the recall done

[2drSE-i]

What recall? The only one i've seen on our cars is the seatbelt one.

[lostforawhile]

I have the bolt in pocket from the dealer, the one they put in for the recall, I don't need it since I have a southern car with no rust issues, it won't even allow the fuel door to operate properly, I think with some trimming it would be fine, but they did a half ass job when they did it. They didn't even need to bother since it's for cars in rust belt areas. It's steel I don't see why it couldn't be welded in after cutting out the original fuel pocket. the fuel filler neck has two bolts that attach it to the piece. If I can find it you can have it for shipping

[carotman]

I have that bolt in pocket too. In fact, Mark told me it was the dealer pocket when he came up here. I just thought it was some ghetto repair done by the previous owner. There is no way I would have accepted that as a proper repair on my car.

I bought the real replacement pocket from the dealer last year. I'll just glue it in with that special 3M Body panel glue.

[gp02a0083]

yah i know when i had the recall done about 2 years ago i said WTF to the tech's and the service manager at the Honda dealer. the "pocket they use for the recall is crap, plus they riveted mine in, which i think made the situation worse. I's sure that i can use the recall pocket like lost said, my concern is that the filler area i believe is a connection between the inner 1/4 and the outer 1/4 . i have not been able to cut one of these cars up to see how the outer/inner 1/4s are attached. if anyone has pictures regarding this it would help. Carotman you said you were just going to use the #m glue, that stuff works great, but from what you said it sounds like the pocket is just a part of the outer 1/4 panel.

Gtmst3 can you check the JY again for the tail gate , hell at this point id take a trip up there and replace it. If you can get pictures and stuff

and if anyone else comes across a hatch in the tri state that is good for body parts like the 1/4 or the lift gate let me know, im itching to get her fixed and painted allready

[lostforawhile]

yea i took mine right back off when i was having to pry the fuel door open to get gas, it was just bolted in. complete junk, but it is heavy steel so i can see it making a good weld in repair. I would almost bet it was designed to weld in in the first place, that's probably why it doesn't fit, it looks like the rusted panel was designed to be cut out and this welded in, doing so would involve dropping out the tank, and fuel filler, which could get messy with a rusted car. The dealers are probably cheaping out to save money on the repair.

[carotman]

I think that the fuel pocket is part of the inner fender indeed...

I'll have to find this out soon.

[gtmst3]

well i went to the jy today and there were no hatches but i did find this

[Chunkaroo!]

Nice Lip Gotz To Get Me One

[gp02a0083]

Lost .... i agree that the dealers are being cheap with this. I still wanna find out how the 1/4 is put together on the gas filler neck side (if the pocket is part of the outer or inner fender and relating supports of any)

Im still looking for parts around here for my hatch , im still in a debate with myself if i should look for another shell and fix that up instead , there are a few hatches that have popped up in NJ , i just dont have the room right now for a 3rd car on top of whats already at my parents house.

Right as of now im trying to figure out whats wrong with the front end of the car. It makes an un-usual sound , not a high pitched squeak or creaking or anything. It almost sounds like a flat spotted tire or its out of balance. I do know its part of the rotating assembly, the frequency of the noise picks up with speed. I don't think its the tires (i just bought them not a month or 2 ago) and i personally balanced them at my father workplace. I also know its not out of balance or a warped rotor, the wheel does not move a bit when accelerating or braking. Im narrowing it down to a hub/bearing issue, anyone's thoughts?

[lostforawhile]

Lost .... i agree that the dealers are being cheap with this. I still wanna find out how the 1/4 is put together on the gas filler neck side (if the pocket is part of the outer or inner fender and relating supports of any)

Im still looking for parts around here for my hatch , im still in a debate with myself if i should look for another shell and fix that up instead , there are a few hatches that have popped up in NJ , i just dont have the room right now for a 3rd car on top of whats already at my parents house.

Right as of now im trying to figure out whats wrong with the front end of the car. It makes an un-usual sound , not a high pitched squeak or creaking or anything. It almost sounds like a flat spotted tire or its out of balance. I do know its part of the rotating assembly, the frequency of the noise picks up with speed. I don't think its the tires (i just bought them not a month or 2 ago) and i personally balanced them at my father workplace. I also know its not out of balance or a warped rotor, the wheel does not move a bit when accelerating or braking. Im narrowing it down to a hub/bearing issue, anyone's thoughts?

did you need the pocket they were putting in? i have one here somewhere, it's heavy steel,so it could be welded in, like I said earlier, i would bet thats how Honda wanted it done. it's too big of an overlap to just bolt in like it was.

[GLICIOUS21]

Thatz a nice hatch. Wish i can find cheap over here 4 my wife.

[gp02a0083]

thanks Lost , im not sure what i need right now at the moment. I do have the pocket thats allready rivited in there i might be able tom reuse that. On another note my hatch is getting worse the lower seam that goes across is rotting out. I still have to locate a donor car to cut up for the gas tank area. I was thinking i could get away with cutting that peice out from any 3rd gen, i might have to cut up a car or two to find out how they assembly the 1/4. Other than that im still looking for another hatchback in the mean time. I know the engine is still fine at 186k and the rebuilt auto trans has 12k on it. I still want a 5 speed, regardless , i guess im gonna have to wait.

i also found out what was causing the noise, it was the right front hub bearing, luckly i had spare front knuckle assemblys from when i swapped the car over to the larger 88-89 front brakes. I also managed to fix my raido, i haven't had AM/FM in my car for some time due to the antenna cable ripping out of the plug, i was debaiting on putting in a after market replacement antenna , but i didnt want to go through the trouble of feeding the cable through the car. Lets just say that splicing that kinda cable (coax typpe) is not easy , regardless i got it to work. Now im trying to trace down a trans and oil leak on the passenger side. i also think i have a coolant leak , about a month ago i replaced the upper heater core and radiator lines, but after a month im about a 16 oz water bottle or two low on coolant , causing it to surge on startup. Im trying to isolate this issue , i was thinking if its not a leak (havent found the source yet) then its too much pressure building up in the system and its throwing it into the reserve tank and spilling out from there. Im really getting to the point where i think its a head gasket.

[gp02a0083]

well its been a few weeks done some maintenance to my hatch, new plugs wires ect. I also put in a new water pump b/c the old one was shot and new right/left rear UCA's.

now the best thing was this sunday, a woman driving a newer VW jetta decides to pull out in front of me and stop short, even with my upgraded brakes it didn't help. needless to say her car was untouched , but my car suffered and the passenger side headlight was pushed in a little bit , the hood is slightly dented and my JDM marker was bowed out and the inner and outer lens was separated. I ended up bending the bracket for the marker light and the headlight cover , for now its ok but im gonna end up needing a hood, passenger side fender/marker light bracket and a headlight bucket assembly....

[Ayeobe]

Shit dude, that sucks! I'd be prety damn upset.

[gp02a0083]

yah not my idea of ending the week on a good note, good news tho is my local junkyard (ironically where my hatch came from ) might have a few 3rd gen's to pick . all i can say is that the bodywork/paint schedule is looking like its being bumped to later this month and august

[gp02a0083]

ok well last Thursday the car "died" on me. I have been having this issue where the radio and ignition system cuts out then usually comes back on, appears to be happening at sustained rpm's over 3500-4000 (pretty much when passing some one on the highway ect..) So last Thursday the car cut out, it blew the 70 amp fuse for the battery to the ignition. Im trying to source the problem for this. The battery is fine and reads 12.03 V with the car off and 14.3V at idle. i put in a alternator about 5 months ago , but i think it might be the voltage regulator. anyone have ideas?

[carotman]

The only way that big fuse can blow is from a bad alternator.

It could be the voltage regulator of a grounded stator.

[gp02a0083]

yah that's what i thought , i was looking at the hayne's wiring diagram, but its showing a 65 amp fuse and 2 55 amps. The car's fuse cover has the 70 next to 2 40 amps and one 30amp. I put in a new ignition switch not too long ago but i don't think that's the issue. I really do think its the voltage regulator in the alternator, i don't remember where i got the replacement one but its probably from autozone. Ive been trying to push the car to force it to pop the fuse so i can really track down the issue , but so far the problem has not come back. oh i didnt mention that the 70amp fuse didn't appear black in the window so the surge i guess wasn't all that violent.

[gp02a0083]

well last weekend was fun, ended up putting in a new power steering rack. One thing i noticed that was odd was the adjustment for the tie rods, the old rack that came out of the car had maybe one thread showing on each side. I replaced the rack, which is a pain but feeding it through the driver side is the easiest, however cars with the auto transmission causes a clearance issue with the shifter cable. I took it to my fathers shop for alignment and could not adjust the car, no matter what i did it still had 1 degree of toe in. The rack i bought wasn't supplied with new jam nuts that go behind the out tie rod ends. I think this was the issue, i ended up grinding the jam nuts to half the size and now i have a decent amount of toe in/out adjustment.

In other news i should be getting my wheel arches in soon , and ive been talking with another member about the gas tank area, i really want to get the bodywork and paint going before the winter.