Nice work, its looking good.
Nice work, its looking good.
The speed sensor is on the transmission.
I know where it is ^^ I was asking which part needs to be changed to read mph.
I went to the JY today and picked up a prelude axle. The intermediate shaft was already loose so the whole thing came on to me. $25.00 ( I have an extra shaft if anybody needs one)
I also picked up a Nippo AC compressor, bracket and lines $23.00
A nice multifunction switch from a low mileage car $4.00
[IMG][/IMG]
I pryed on this thing some more this afternoon and I can't get the axle shaft away from the intermediate.. I will break out the heavy tackle later on it.
It gets confusing when Im dealing with old school cars and working with new cars and then all those in between years. I know you have to change the drive gear for the speedometer when you change rear ends so the speedo reads correct old school. I know you have to reprogram new cars when you change diff or get oversize tires. I think some cars have electronic speedometer heads but then get a reading signal from a transducer that uses a cable to the transmission. I am not totally sure how these work since it is an area I have not had to mess with.. yet. so my question was being that the trans. was built for land afar and they use kilometers per hour, what exactly do I need to change if anything for my mile-o-meter to read correctly.
This is not a big hold up on my swap progress cuz I can still run it like it is, but while I am in there with the intake manifold off I would like to get it resolved.
i woulda thought the only difference would of been in the gauge cluster itself, anyway for that half shaft, just bolt it onto the block and then pry it out, would make it way easier
Man you suck, this is the first ive heard of this. good work... I want an engine swap haha.
1986 Honda Accord Lx-i
~~NGK~~Silvania~~MSD~~Pioneer~~MSW~~Bosch~~DC Sports~~115WHP 116WTQ
Hey Roodo did you check your waterpump out? I checked the ones out on both of the B20A's and they were rusted out really bad....... If you need one I have a spare that I can sell you
allways reset the timing when u get a used motor. mechanics are useless and dont set the timing correctly, every car i have got has been off a tooth/loose and when the belts loose it will hit on the top of the cam cover. i dont think mine ever gets loose its allways tight. i would remove it and reset/retension it
good idea. b20 water pumps like to fuck out if you leave them for a while unused. the bearing seals allways go on them
I figured, from what I have seen like when I changed the thermostat this weekend WTF do they use aquarium salt for antifreeze over there ??
Doesn't the prelude B20A5 waterpump work on these? PM ya Bullard
Yeah I think I will check out that belt real good, a comment by Haunted got me thinking.... something about a crate B20A for sale in NZ, brand new but not warrentied unless the timing belt was changed. thanks for the heads up AccordB20A.
Last edited by 2oodoor; 08-05-2008 at 05:15 AM.
Damn Guy, how have I missed this thread for so long? ...anyway, huge props to you for making this swap a reality.
So far it's looking great. One thing that would lead me to believe that the front mount is different on the B is that the crossmember is has two additional holes tapped under the existing "A" mount, that don't appear to be used in an A setup. (I just noticed this last weekend after removing the front mount. I can take a pic of it if you need. Hey AccordB20A and A18A, can you snap a pic of your front mounts on your B20's and post it up for Guy?
-Mark D.
I did not see any extra holes on mine, BUT there is this thing bolted next to the front insulator mount that looks like some sort of counterweight, any body have a clue? I took mine off to clean up the crossmemeber and was wondering what would happen if I left it off.
If you look to the left of the mount in this pic you can see some of it, it is covered up by the hose in the pic though
yeah, I know exactly that mystery mount you speak of. Beats the hell out of me just what it's for. my first thought was vibration dampener, but then I asked myself how the hell that would do anything meaningful, and the answer seems to be nope.
-Mark D.
Slow progress but it's coming
After having roadblocks in just about every stage, I am pressing on... got the new water pump (thanks bullard!) on and the new timing belt (still has Honda belt and looked almost new but meh)
I found a common belt to replace these B20A oem-tooloudnproud had one posted in a thread that fits a peugeot 90 model and nobody had it, they said it was factory direct order from gates. I found an upgraded belt from gates that fits a ...NissanMaxima/Pathfinder/Quest/Mercury Villager/Infinity 3.3L/and get this ... a Lotus (man that has to be good for 90 more HP)
Part #T259 gates, some prefix then ending with 259 Dayco.
Also today I got the timing covers prepped and painted the color I am doing the valve cover. Top Secret until it is unveiled ahhhh hhahaaaa I have to wait till the TV show airs so I can tell you..snicker
Had a wierd thing trying to time up the cam, the intake cam kept trying to spring back when I had it up TOP, so I pryed on it when I slid the belt on. I have the crank on the T scribe, I hope that is right for these.? wohdog?
Got the alternator bolted up, there was no difference in the carb vs FI alt, both had four blades. So I kept the newer looking one that came on the b20 since it has the right pulley.
I put the new plugs in, squared away some coolant hoses and the wiring harness. I need to trace the colors on those three sensor wires.. not sure which one is which. NBD
I spent about three hours sanding and shaping on the custom intake. (see Egrodomy thread) I never set out to make that thing any thing really fancy but I kept cutting and shaping, and smoothing out grinder marks and gouges till why not go for it. It is going to look cool and I have not seen anybody else do one like this. Ive heard of it though.
sorry for the long story, but I am bookmarking where I am for my own benefit.. lol
I still need to take the downpipe off, arrrrggghhh so I can line it up with the DC header downpipe that is on the car from the A20. I can use the same exhaust but just have to butt it. Too bad I cant find a DC header for this then I could just bolt it right up to my A20 downpipe. If the bolts break on this, I will just get a prelude manifold I guess since headers are so hard to find.
This is alot more work than I planned, I keep adding little things, Still not ready for a sound check... onward
Last edited by 2oodoor; 09-21-2008 at 02:39 PM.
I wanted to get it to just run a few minutes, so I completed the fuel and transmission fluid parts. i am running the little carb on it for now just to get it driving again.
The "A20 starter is locked up, it worked fine before, so I cant get it to turn over. Yes it is the starter , I have it out and it still kicks out the drive but doesnt turn the starter motor. Egrodomy manifold on, down to 800 grit on the surface, still not polished. I need to fabricate some Intake manifold support brackets. May be able to use the A20 ones with some mods. The oem b20a FI brackets are not even close btw.
I discoverd the vacuum dizzy has a broke inner nipple, so I may be doing some changes there. I think the guts of the A20 dizzy will fit this D16zc unit.
i took my one off on my old car and broke my b18 gearbox a few weeks after (N)
crap, that useless piece of steel is going back on the car then.
looks good! my old starter did that to
1988 Honda Accord LX-i Coupe 123k miles.
Nah leave it off its probably coincidence mate
I would keep the dog bone in I was making more power than twoloudnproud and never broke a stock mount yet with a turboed stock A20. The dog bone is a torque mount that limits the engine movement from the motor twisting, I believe that needs to be kept unless some other provision is made to keep the motor from moving(twisting).
Bookmarks