Roodoo2 LX Sedan B20 IN!

[2oodoor]

OK , update.. and a little lesson in 3rd gen prelude headers!
For sure the Hedman Chikara does not fit (91 lude) I had to open up the stud holes, just as expected. But the angle of the down pipe is wrong as is the length. The headpipe flange comes right even with the bottom of the block at the oil pan. I did happen to try the down pipe backwards and it does mesh flat with the flange so I will cut this one, shorten and turn the downpipe flange to fit the Accord. Pics...
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Look how long these pipes are! they look cool but do not fit the car, Im sure it would scrape the pavement!
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I am a little disappointed in the Hedman Chikara Header as compared to my DC from the A20, the pipe is not a big. I have waited long enough and these are going to be what I use though. If I had known I had to do all this chopping I would have gone with the H22 Header with fat pipes. The stock B20 exhaust is not that bad, just heavy with the cast iron is all!
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[2oodoor]

bump to be able to veiw the post! it would not scroll.. I will post other pictures here later!

[Hauntd ca3]

here you can see the 3g lude 4/1 headers i've talked out elsewhere here.
the collector flange is just below sump gasket level and has bout an inch of clearance either side of it.
the pipe off it only required a small section cut out of it and rewelded to the flange to get the angle right and ground clearance.
but here you can see the prob with the the a/c line or lack of it due to the number 1 primary wanting to occupy the same space.
but i can live without it

[2oodoor]

I have the AC off right now, so I could not tell anyhow. I think that a hose could be made to get around it though.
I like the long downpipe on the Hedman, I hate to cut any of it out.

[Hauntd ca3]

I have the AC off right now, so I could not tell anyhow. I think that a hose could be made to get around it though.
I like the long downpipe on the Hedman, I hate to cut any of it out.

you prob can have the a/c line remade without to much hassle if you want a/c.
and cutting bits of the down pipe off with a 4/2/1 header will prob change the tuning of them a bit, but i dont thnk it would be stuff all diff, but unless you dont mind the pipes hitting things and getting bent and dented, you might have to cause that down pipe looks pretty close to the ground eh.
looks lke you might have to cut a few inches out.
the main reason i had to cut my down pipe is to get the angle right more than ground clearance.

[Ichiban]

You should PM me some details on that Hedman unit, it almost looks like a solution to my problem. I have about 2.8" between my front x-member and the front pan rail on my EL engine, which would seem to be enough to snake exhaust through. My concern is that the pan rails on the B20A are spread wider than mine, and there won't be any room once that engine's in.

If I can tuck the exhaust right up against the engine, I might just get away without other modifications.

Are you altering the angle of the header in relation to the head, or just the downpipe? Looks like you're gonna be close to the pan, might wanna incorporate some sort of heat shield like I'm thinking about.

[2oodoor]

You should PM me some details on that Hedman unit, it almost looks like a solution to my problem. I have about 2.8" between my front x-member and the front pan rail on my EL engine, which would seem to be enough to snake exhaust through. My concern is that the pan rails on the B20A are spread wider than mine, and there won't be any room once that engine's in.

If I can tuck the exhaust right up against the engine, I might just get away without other modifications.

Are you altering the angle of the header in relation to the head, or just the downpipe? Looks like you're gonna be close to the pan, might wanna incorporate some sort of heat shield like I'm thinking about.

I had not thought about the heat on the pan gasket, dam. yes it is tucked like you say but I held the downpipe up to it backwards with the outlet going towards the front bumper and it mated up flush without contacting anything so that means if I cut it about 8 inches from the flange it would work. I am not changing the head pipe angle just the down pipe needs work. There was a bracket there for the oem downpipe that I removed, maybe could use that to attach a shield. I dunno.
Haunted I was thinking about that, I may try and add some on the other end, this header appears to be tuned with the downpipe judging by the length of the runners.

[Hauntd ca3]

from the look of the down pipe you have, the collector near the flex looks to be bout the same place as the factory exhaust.
so i'm going to hazard a guess and say that those headers are just a replacement for a factory manifold setup in which case you prob wouldnt shag the tuning up much by removing an inch or so near the flange to get both ground clearance and the right angle,if anything by shortening them you'd gain a touch more in the upper mid range.
as for clearance to the sump/oilpan, aslong as you have an inch or so clearance you'll be fine.
just check how much clearance the factory pipe has and aim at about that.
or set it up so that the bottom of the down pipe runs level or slightly below the level of the crossmember

[2oodoor]

Here they are together, you can see there is a significant difference in the downpipe. The head pipe lower flange also has an angle to it instead of being ninty degrees from the head side flange.
The oem downpipe is dual walled! pipe inside a pipe. I was wondering how I would cut the Hedman downpipe and NOT use a butt weld, but a fraction size OD sleeve to join them so there is no obstruction inside. I am going to try to keep close to the same length on those 2 to 1 runners.
The oem manifold weighs about 445849403 times as much as the header..
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[Hauntd ca3]

the angle of the first half of the headers is going to be an arse to change.
but if you can get the down pipe to meet up and get some bolts in it you shoild be right there. looks like you have the clearance there for it not to be to close to the block.
with the down pipe length, cut the pipe of flush at the flange and grind out the remains of the weld etc so you just left wit a plain clean flange.
cut of what you need to off the down pipe and weld it back onto the flange.
that'll sort that part out.
they look like the bends are mandrels,so you should be able to cuta wedge out of them,bend them so the to edges meet and weld it up.
if you do the cut at the start of the bend, once its done you might be able to get a die grinder in to clean up the inside of the pipe.
and if you want to keep the length you have now,weld what you cut out of the first part of the down pipe back in near he collector.
go to an exhaust shop and get the pipe flared so you dont have to butt weld it

[2oodoor]

with the down pipe length, cut the pipe of flush at the flange and grind out the remains of the weld etc so you just left wit a plain clean flange.
cut of what you need to off the down pipe and weld it back onto the flange.
that'll sort that part out.
they look like the bends are mandrels,so you should be able to cuta wedge out of them,bend them so the to edges meet and weld it up.

I think that may be the way I go, cut the downpipe at the flange, make it about 45 degree wedge, and reweld it to the flange. That would streighten out the bend and put it about the right length at the same time.
The head pipe is ok as long as I match the angle with the other piece.

[Hauntd ca3]

the only bitch is, since you got two pipes to cut and get right, you cant really afford to f it up eh
thats where i had it eay with my headers.
only one pipe to mod

[2oodoor]

the only bitch is, since you got two pipes to cut and get right, you cant really afford to f it up eh
thats where i had it eay with my headers.
only one pipe to mod

gee thanks for the vote of confidence..hahaaa
right on though, I will make sure to sink out the flange and then spot the area first then come back for a good roll of coins.

[AccordB20A]

well i hope you get there in the end and have some good working b20a headers that fit your b20a good. i also hope they actually help the engine out haha

[2oodoor]

well i hope you get there in the end and have some good working b20a headers that fit your b20a good. i also hope they actually help the engine out haha

HA heh... yes well the stock one is not a bad design but very heavy so I look at it as weight loss. Not a lot of difference in the head pipe but the down pipe is longer so maybe that is the engine gain right there..
thanks for all the support guys, Im steady getting there.

[2oodoor]

well today is the first time I have given this project ANY attention in over a month so I will update. We cut the header downpipe and rewelded the downpipe flange at an angle to streighten it out from B20Axx ed ness. Still too long though as you will see it will surely hit the ground. Not a big problem as long as the flange matches a little further down the pipe when it is cut again.
I port matched the crappy Hedman welds , should have taken before after pis of that, it was terrible with obstructions.
You may notice something missing from the header now too. [IMG][/IMG]
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[2ndGenGuy]

Sweet man looking whoop ass! I might be copying your methods here soon. Missing the O2 bungs and EGR?

[2oodoor]

Sweet man looking whoop ass! I might be copying your methods here soon. Missing the O2 bungs and EGR?

what egr?I dont think this one had one now I cant remember LOL missing air pipe thing ?and the O2 bungs are down lower and I need those so they remain.

[Ichiban]

I need a brighter pic of this situation to determine oil pan vs x-member clearances.

[2oodoor]

I need a brighter pic of this situation to determine oil pan vs x-member clearances.

ok no problem, I already edited that one and it looked better than before I put it up, anyway see if you can get any more out of your screen adjustment till I get another pic .

[lostforawhile]

my pipe hit a little when i made my downpipe,but i just took out the center crossmember and did a little hammering with a body hammer,bent the lip over,it's fine now.

[87roach]

It's good to see that you got it in there, hopefully that bend wont see too many bumps. You should see a decent power gain too I'd imagine, keep up the good work!

[2oodoor]

It's good to see that you got it in there, hopefully that bend wont see too many bumps. You should see a decent power gain too I'd imagine, keep up the good work!

Im not leaving it like that, it is way way too vulnerable and visable, I already hit bottom a good bit around this area.

[Hauntd ca3]

guna say doo
\would take another couple inches out of that down pipe at least

[rjudgey]

Oh dear that joint is going to kill flow no way you can get it sitting at the same angle and have a new downpipe made up with less sever 90 degree angle to it!! That would flow ten times better, if you could find a way to move the whole header a couple of cm's or half an inch forward would work better, maybe have another flangle made up and get that welded to the header, then have the original holes bored out big enough to fit the spacers on so that your studs are still long enough to fit the nuts on. That would give you bit more clearance between block and pan. What do you think? Need to find someone with a mandrel bender i think and get some piping made up and a new collector for the 2-1 part on the downpipe, nice quality flexi joint too or it will leak and crack eventually. Nice to see the engine in though welcome to some serious power and speed now!! Also if you can have at least 2.25" mandrel bent system or 2.5" is even better but harder to fit, our engines just love bigger exhausts hard to believe they got 160bhp and used 1.75" piping!!