i had a noobish thought.. will the B20A head work with the USDM A20A3 block? i found nothing on this build in forums (hopefully i didnt look in the wrong place) and i just wondered if it would work.. thanks
i had a noobish thought.. will the B20A head work with the USDM A20A3 block? i found nothing on this build in forums (hopefully i didnt look in the wrong place) and i just wondered if it would work.. thanks
-Tom
1988 4 Door Lx-i 5-speed
364,XXX and counting :]
No I don't believe that it'll bolt up right. Something to do with coolant line not lining up or something like that. I'm not exactly sure though. I just remember a discussion of something like this awhile back.
Lostforawhile:we have to pick on him he's CAH he spray painted himself into this corner with the accord.
yeah, i think it was the coolant line being to short or something, or it was in the opposite place.. i dont remember but something like that..LOLOriginally Posted by turabaka
one day I'll return.
Are you guys saying the coolant PORTS are on the wrong side, or a $2 piece of coolant hose is keeping us from going DOHC.
Bass like Base... Not fish.
1. The center rear head bolt doesn't line up quite right
2. The oil drainback holes on the B head are too large, and need to be welded up.
3. The B head is about 1.5 inches longer on the cam gear side, so the timing belt lines up with nothing on the block.
ICHIBAN!
"Now, even more better!"
Can you replace the Crankshaft and oil pump to accomodate?
Bass like Base... Not fish.
In theory if you really wanted to go through all that pain in the ass fab work it could be possible to put a b20 head on an a20 block, but wouldn't it just be easier to fab up custom mounts and drop in a b18 or b16?
Lostforawhile:we have to pick on him he's CAH he spray painted himself into this corner with the accord.
It is my understanding that at least one person pulled this off but they disappeared off this forum. It takes some tricky machine work, there are not enough coolant ports, and among the other things already mentioned ^^^^
I suggested using a b18 aftermarket dart head base unfinished cast, and machine the proper holes in it. Dart could easliy make one for the A20 but it is just not economically feasable for them since they would only have a hand full of customers and there are other engines they would rather make race heads for for profit.
so guys... would it be better to port/polish and trick out our heads instead of going along with a pain in the ass b20a head swap?
-Tom
1988 4 Door Lx-i 5-speed
364,XXX and counting :]
turbo is what makes the a20a a non fail engine
i heard alot on how our engines take turbo applications real well.. i want an official answer.. is it true?
-Tom
1988 4 Door Lx-i 5-speed
364,XXX and counting :]
Do some searchin! I've heard countless times that the A20's hold 10 lbs of boost without a sweat. And if that is true on the 88-89 LXI's, then I could see an 86-87 LXI hold 12-14lbs easy.
In theory, the best A20 to turbo would be a 86-87 A1 with swapped PGM-FI. But if you are gonna turbo, you might as well buy lower CR pistons and a reground cam anyway, so it doesn't matter.
Last edited by Bass Man; 07-27-2008 at 06:06 PM.
Bass like Base... Not fish.
i have an 87 with a swapped A18A1 with an A20A3 head... will that work or should i just save up and rebuild my blown A20A3 block and work it up from there?
-Tom
1988 4 Door Lx-i 5-speed
364,XXX and counting :]
They're the same block with a different bore.
So, what kind of compression ratio does that A18 with FI A20 head have anyway? how are the rods constructed? what do the A18 pistons look like? flat, dished or reliefs?
im running around .3 less cr then the stock a20a3 blocks cr.. i didnt really look at the rods but the pistons are flat and have grooves for 16 valve configuration but were only running 12 valves.. its not really good on power due to some tuning issues but the a18 does the job if you need an emergency swap.. i plan on putting my stock a20a3 back in the bay but i have to wait a while so i can rebuild it and put everything new
-Tom
1988 4 Door Lx-i 5-speed
364,XXX and counting :]
86-87 A1 = 9.1 CR
88-89 A3 = 9.3 CR
Plus the 86-87 A1's have a lower lift cam, which I heard is good for turbo.
I don't know about the 86-87 FI or 88-89 carbed CR's, but I know the above is true.
Bass like Base... Not fish.
yeah its way easyer to put a port and polished head with a nice cam...even with just a cam my motor feels good even at high rpms
1989 Honda Accord LX-i
B18c1 swap since 7/2011
175whp and 132tq
Redzone tuned
yeah thats what im most likely going to do.. hey the specs for your car are 112hp.. is that pre-88 year model?
-Tom
1988 4 Door Lx-i 5-speed
364,XXX and counting :]
thats WHP not at the flywheel, i believe his cars a 1989 honda accord lx-i. according to his sig
yeah its making like 135 to the flywheel now i think im making like 120WHP cuz its tuned
1989 Honda Accord LX-i
B18c1 swap since 7/2011
175whp and 132tq
Redzone tuned
what mods have been done to it? i got a A20A3 block in my garage and im rebuilding it... what would i do to get a HP number like that?
-Tom
1988 4 Door Lx-i 5-speed
364,XXX and counting :]
oh noes....... wait for it
i think right now his cars making 0HP due to a ign fail
Oh no! Don't tell me the 6AL crapped out!
Bass like Base... Not fish.
ouch
-Tom
1988 4 Door Lx-i 5-speed
364,XXX and counting :]
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