Just bought an 89 Se-I and the power antenna does not retract with the switch. Is there an easy way to fix this? I'm a new Honda Girl, so take it easy on me...
Just bought an 89 Se-I and the power antenna does not retract with the switch. Is there an easy way to fix this? I'm a new Honda Girl, so take it easy on me...
ya but its not easy lolOriginally Posted by truble64
i tried ones and just said f it
you can take it in some were and have it replaced its a pain in the ass to get to though you almost have to take the whole dash out to do so
Thanks. The switch itself works, but the antenna won't retract. Any ideas??
Is the antenna mast bent? In any case, you probably need a new antenna. Honda will sell you one with or without the motor, as I recall they're about $80 and $150 respectively. The labor to install is around $80 also, and if you haven't done it before, it's a bear, as the antenna is tucked waaaaay over on the left under the dash. You need to take some stuff out and have little hands.
Are you planning on doing some things yourself? This is a good site to help you. You need to learn how to use the Search function.
I suggest you just replace the antenna mast, and disconnect the motor. After all, it's not that hard to reach up and push or pull it yourself. Have a dealer do it. MAKE SURE YOU TELL THE INSTALLER NOT TO DISCONNECT THE DRAIN TUBE THAT IS ATTACHED TO THE MOTOR. If it's disconnected, and if the front (left) sunroof drain gets blocked where it exits to the road, the water from the sunroof will back up to the antenna motor and then get into the footwell.
Order original Honda parts from this dealer in RI. They discount by 25%.
http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/...catdisplay.jsp
I suggest you stay away from all aftermarket parts. There's so much real crap out there that in the long run, it's better to pay up and get original Honda, if your budget allows.
Good luck. This is a friendly, helpful site, and one that as time goes by, you'll be so happy you found.
Last edited by w261w261; 07-30-2008 at 05:15 AM.
Since you're new to your car, are you mechanically inclined or know someone that is? Your car is 20 years old, and probably has issues, which if you get out in front of them will make your ownership a happier experience. You need to do an "assessment." First would be the cooling system; hoses, coolant, thermostat, etc. Next would be other fluids, then the suspension - ball joints, bushings, other stuff.
Last edited by w261w261; 07-30-2008 at 06:10 AM.
Hi. Thanks for the info. And yes, even though I am a girl, I am mechanically inclined, for the most part. Wish I knew how to do more.
The car is actually pretty sweet. I've had it looked over already...haven't had it a month yet. The only problem is that it didn't have an O2 sensor, and when we put one in, the check engine lite started coming on and the car hesitated pretty bad. We disconnected the sensor; the check engine light doesn't come on, but it still hesitates periodically. the garage i took it took...their computer won't register a 20 year old car and i don't want to take it to the dealer cause i definitely need both of my arms and legs (i don't need to be charged an arm and a leg by them).
i've got the originaly window sticker from the car $20K and original bill of sale $18K.
I bought the car to go back and forth to work cause the 20mpg on my escape during my 30 mile trip each way just wasn't cutting it anymore.
we are obd-0 no machine i know can look up codes lol but i can show you how to
https://www.3geez.com/forum/showthread.php?t=26342
Thanks for the link...
eh, antenna, who has them any more? LOL i just shaved mine...
but welcome, and enjoy your stay! and good luck with everything
one day I'll return.
<< the garage i took it took...their computer won't register a 20 year old car and i don't want to take it to the dealer..>>
If that garage didn't know to read the codes from the ecu under the seat, it's time to find another mechanic.
As far as the hesitation/O2 sensor goes, the fuel injected cars can be made trouble-free easier than the carbed ones. There's no reason to settle for one that hesitates "sometimes." You need the O2 sensor for things to work well, so you should persevere until you get everything set up right. It will likely mean a period of consistent effort, but it will pay off in a sweet-running car.
How many miles on the car? How's the leather? Noises from the suspension?
To get to the antenna motor you will need to take the fuse panel out from under the dash. This gives you some room to work under there but its not much. If your antenna doesn't retract, most likely the plastic cable that goes into the motor broke. Mine broke so I just left the antenna be. Replacing the antenna is a bit of a pain because it is tough to guide the antenna and the wire through the pillar, but with some effort it goes in.
Good luck!
Sam
1989 Accord LX: Sold with 208k-now somewhere around 230k with new owner
Current:
2014 Elantra Sport 6MT
2000 Montero Sport 4x4 (beater, trail rig)
Yeah the antenna is a PITA but can be done with some patience, the nylon line probably broke as mine did. But I can live without the retractable antenna.
As for the O2 sensor, do you have 1 or 2. If 2 try to swapping the plugs making sure you have the correct order. Its what we had to do when you put a header on. Might work for you.
Welcome to the board.
Phil
It's got 155K miles on it. Apparently someone swapped out the leather seats at some point, which brings me to another question for anyone...the rear seat back is not secured. it's kind of just sitting there, propped up and tucked in, so to speak. i've sat in the seat and it seems to be fine, but i'm afaid if at some point i put stuff in the trunk, it will come through the rear seat. any help with this situation???
oh...and the front end is a little squeeky at times...kind of creaky like an old lady
Check the latch at the top of the seat. You might need to replace it The junk yard is a great place fo replacement parts for our vehicles
Phil
The bushings on the suspension system are probably worn time for replacement.
Phil
Our cars are more susceptible to squeaking than others, it seems. There isn't much you can do about it, until you start replacing bushings. Then, you have the opportunity to lubricate them with silicone grease. Do this, and you'll be happy for awhile; don't, and those squeaks will be back before you know it.
Most likely yours in front are coming from the what's called the Upper Control Arm (UCA) bushings. Hold both of your arms out in front of you, with one hand over the other and some space between them. Each front wheel of your car is held this way by the suspension - your upper arm is called the Upper Control Arm, and the lower is the Lower Control Arm. Now move both arms up and down...your shoulders are pivoting, and instead of cartilage our cars have mounting bolts and rubber bushings. It's these bushings that need to be greased, but unfortunately can't be gotten to without taking them out.
At the end of each control arm (upper and lower) is something called a ball joint. Make a fist with your right hand and hold it vertically in front of your face as if you were going to punch the ceiling. Then take your left hand and cover the top of it. Notice how you can rotate your fist back and forth in several directions. On your car, this allows your wheels to steer and tilt. You should make sure your ball joints are OK, it's a simple test that a mechanic or a knowedgeable friend can do. It's also important, because if the ball joint fails your wheel can come loose from the suspension, and you can imagine what happens then.
Getting back to the squeaking, some people replace ball joints only, but I always just get a whole new control arm, which comes with the ball joint on it. At that point, you can cure the squeaking with the silicon grease.
If you want immediate and probably temporary relief, take off the front wheel, and reach in and spray the mounting bolt with silicon spray. Careful to stay away from the brake rotor though.
Last edited by w261w261; 08-01-2008 at 10:32 AM.
are 100% sure its an sei and not a rebadge dose it have the bose stereo, cupholders , rear disks
Yes, it's an SE-I. Has the cup holders, but the bose stereo was replaced iwth a sony explode. i had the rear speakers replaced, as they were the original bose and the cardboard cones were cracked. the speakers in the front doors are the original bose, with the bose label on the speaker covers.
btw...you guys are GREAT and informative. i was hoping to find someone located near me, west of philly, that maybe could be my 'master' and teach me all kinds of things about my car and show me how to fix/replace things. i am handy, for a girl, but have to admit i don't do a lot with my cars
any chubby chasers on the boards tonite?
wtf
And you can break a lot of antennas with impunity as you figure out how to remove them.
Dr_Snooz
"I like to take hammers, and just break stuff, just break stuff." - Beavis
1989 Honda Accord LX-i Coupe, 240k miles, MT swap, rear disc swap
Shop manual downloads available here: CLICK TO VIEW
lol
what the hell is going on here?
rfiks you goddamn postwhore stop posting all this meaningless crap or you're gonna get the boot!
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