Timing Belt HELP

[Dr_Snooz]

Probably a good idea to adjust all the valves after a few days of driving.

Nice work with the impact gun.

[zigzag]

thanks ^_^ though i just found one of my vacuum lines is missing.... ill upload the pic.... trying to find where this one goes >.< i have it capped off right now but i cant seem to find where it goes for the life of me.... would anyone happen to know? what is that piece btw?

[zigzag]

scratch that i found a good diagram here and its supposed to be capped off.... i found the cap it was knocked off and stuck in a good place ^_^;; sorry

[zigzag]

question.... adjusting the valves does the engine have to be stone cold? i looked through posts and found a thread and was wondering if the measurements i got were correct? intake .006 and exhaust .010.... i tried it but it gave a worse tapping noise than before.... and i tried the measurements under the hood but those gaps were huge and still gave an awful tapping noise. i can take it to a honda dealership and they will charge me $100 to adjust all valves and replace the valve cover gasket, but i would rather do it myself since im short on cash and cant afford it.... please any help would be great.

also i started putting my car in 3rd and moving it to over drive when the car reaches 40-45 mph because it felt like it was putting less strain on my car.... but it seems when i start off in over drive after it takes the car up to 4000 rpms before it shifts gears.... but if i dont use 3rd and just use over drive it shifts fine.... would starting off in 3rd then putting the car into over drive at 40-45 mph bad for my trani?

[Dr_Snooz]

Intake = 0.005"-0.007"
Exhaust = 0.010"-0.012

Properly adjusted valves will make a little noise. If they are quiet, you run the risk of burning them up. Adjusting is more art than science, so you might need to re-do a few times before getting it right. The dealer doesn't always do them right either, so save your money.

I shift my AT all the time and no, it shouldn't do what you're describing. When was the last fluid change? It might be time for a flush.

[zigzag]

last year i replaced the trani.... so its probably time for a flush >.< i will get on that soon.... as for running quiet how would that run the risk up burning up the valves? trying to learn all i can about this stuff for later on in life.... better to know than to get ripped off by some mechanic.... im not doing that again.

[nswst8]

Engine does need to be cold for valve adjustment. Let the car sit overnight before you adjust.

[lostforawhile]

last year i replaced the trani.... so its probably time for a flush >.< i will get on that soon.... as for running quiet how would that run the risk up burning up the valves? trying to learn all i can about this stuff for later on in life.... better to know than to get ripped off by some mechanic.... im not doing that again.

if the valve is never closed all the way from being too tight hot gasses will always be escaping past them and eroding the valve. if the the clearance is too loose you will loose power because the valve never opens all the way. if you take it to a dealer i can almost guarantee they won't let it get cold by it sitting all day,and adjust the valves wrong. they make money by moving cars in and out and trying to do as many small services as they can. it costs them money to have the car sit. the difference between the valve being even 70 and 100 degrees can affect the clearance you measure by several thousandths of an inch. this is enough to misadjust the valves. the service manual will list a certain temperature the cyl head is to be below before adjusting them for this reason. this temperature they list also takes into account how much the valves and rockers assemblies will expand at normal operating temperatures. theres a lot of engineering in that valve train.

[zigzag]

got ya.... what i did was adjust the valves 30 minutes after driving down the road to the guys house.... i will have to pick a weekend to do this when im not running the car.

what we did was move the gear to top dead center and adjusted the closed valves exhaust first one by one cranking the gear to each cylender then started over doing the intake afterwards.... when we got done adjusting intake at .006 and exhaust .010 we started up the car and the ticking sounded worse....

so far what ive found out here is to move the gear to TDC and adjust all the valves for that cylender.... then move the gear 1/4 the way and adjust the valves for the next cylender.... in order 1-3-4-2....

im still trying to figure this out and get it right but it does seem like i lost a bit of power since the last adjustment.

[Oldblueaccord]

I don't think you are following the valve adjustment procedure correctly.

1. The head has to be cold. The specs listed are for a cold motor. When wamed up those adjustments are differant and unless you know the amount of "growth" it won't be correct.

2. You must mover the engine over 4 times and follow the correct firing order. TDC is on the compression stroke all valves closed not the exhaust stroke where the intakes are closed and the exhaust is open.

3. you want a slight drag on the feeler guage when you tighten the adjustment hold down nut. The part about "slight drag" is subjective but you will get the feel for it. Recheck after the nut is tightened that your original adjustment is the same. You may have to readjust you gap.

One thing you have to remember is the rocker arm is on the base of the cam when you make your adjustment. This can be seen by looking at the cam lobe itself and where the rocker pad is. You may want to push the rocker down onto the cam to make sure it is on the cam when you are using the feeler guage.

That all being said once you get good at it yes you can skip around and do other cylinders on valves that are closed.

EDIT: Pretty good link here
http://www.autozone.com/az/cds/en_us...rInfoPages.htm


wp

[2oodoor]

good link! bookmark that one and you can navigate to any car repair procedures
You can take the plugs out to make it easier to turn the engine by hand and shine a light in the spark hole to see the piston TDC
Make sure you have a good light shining on the actual gap, so you can see you are not holding the guage at an angle, and you can feel/ see the .007 and .011 should slightly drag but not pinch.

[Dr_Snooz]

I swore a lot when I did my valves for the first time. That whole "slight drag" business was really hard for me. I got the valves flappy and rattly one time, then silent the next. What a pain. I hate adjusting valves.

[zigzag]

you guys are awesome ^_^ i will be attempting this again soon as soon as i read the link provided a few more times over lol i will let you know how to goes.... wish me luck >.<

i know what you mean.... is it good when its quiet.... what should it sound like when they are properly adjusted?

[Oldblueaccord]

There are some vids on you tube.



http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jqgNRn3ashM


wp

[zigzag]

what is this sensor? i want to put one of those dome air filters over my carb and get rid of the bulky breather.... is there a thread on this subject?

[greentee76]

Intake air temp sensor. Sends signal to Solenoid control computer under seat which in turn tells the funny little valves in the black box of doom what to do.
It is a little more complex than that but that is the basics.
To get rid of the bulky air cleaner( ain't it a bitch? ) properly is going to require a devac. Look on the carb tech page, I believe the devac how to is stickied there.
(This all depends on what the smog requirements are in your area.)

[zigzag]

so what if i drill a hole in the metal of the filter and screw the sensor there? wouldnt that be an easy bypass? or does it have to be before the air hits the filter?

[tenchimuyo93]

i use this for my impact needs

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00988244000P

works just as good an air powered one.

[zigzag]

2 things i would like to ask now.... im shifting at between 2500 and 3500 (mostly 3000-3200) rpms. is this normal?.... and the first time i kept check of mpg i got 21 the first time and tonight the light came on and i got 15.4 >.< thats a big jump, do you think my valves are getting burnt up? i am having my friend come back by to help me adjust the valves in the morning while the engine is cold.... i hope it isnt too late

[zigzag]

FINALLY!!!! the valves have been adjusted and my car no longer shakes at idle.... smoother take off and acceleration....

now im looking at an edelbrock air filter.... the dome shapped on that sits over the carbs intake....

http://www.tias.com/cgi-bin/google.f...Key=1922885382

now is it possible to mount the the air temp sensor to the bottom? its still reading the air temp before going into the carb intake.... also what do i do with the excess vacuum hoses going to the black intake box? is there a tutorial on this subject i can read into?

[Civic Accord Honda]

that air cleaner looks bomb man!!
and u just plug the vac lines that go to the old air cleaner lol

[zigzag]

thats what i thought but i just had to make sure.... yea it looks nice and its easy as hell to clean.... foam filter washed with warm water and soap.

now one more question there is a piece going from the black box to the small black box in front of it.... now i know to put a mini filter onto the head cover but im talking about the other one.... what do i do with that? if pics are needed ill post them up as soon as i can....

the increase in air flow will this help my gas mileage?

thanks

[2oodoor]

sounds like you need to adjust the TV cable at the transmission. You can short or lengthen those to tweek your shift points. Makes a HUGE difference in how the car behaves. You should be able to hold OD D4 in at 60 mph. There will be a place in there where it will drift in and out, that is the near end of what you want out of a properely adjusted cable. The far end is where the car shifts in 1 and 2, should'nt hold on too long but yes long enough to take advantage of the engines torque and not bogg.

my 2 cents on the crank bolt, a milwalkee 1/2 inch 115 volt ac electric impact 300 ft lbs, took care of the last one I did. My cordless just whimpered at it because this bolt had never been off before. Yes any air impact should get it, and you dont need a lot of air for an impact gun to work. ive changed a six lug wheel with one portable air tank full of air before, hooked an air chuck to the hose.

Helicoils, I believe both Mitsubishi and Ford approve those repairs on spark plug holes. ( they also recommend removal of the head to install them too but F that..can you say ShopVac... Lol) You have to use the correct one and use the correct torque and spark plug.

On adjusting the valves , my own method is setting them at .007 and .011 and adjust the nut down on the feeler guage, making sure the gauge is being held level with the gap and not at any angle. then let the rocker and valve stem hold the guage pinched just as I let out the nut so it will slide out with slight to very little drag. You should be able to recheck those again at .006 &.010 with gentle drag on the feeler guage. Be sure the nut does not turn the adjustment in when it is tightend.

[zigzag]

i have adjusted the tv cable before but this is recent that this has all happened.... in 3rd all gears shift perfect and right on time.... but in OD D4 it takes the car 4500 rpms to shift out of 1st.... im just going to flush the trani.... its been about if not a little more than a year so it could use it anyways. as far as the filter goes as soon as i find out what to do with the connection between the black box in front of the air intake ill run out and buy one.... pics comming later today to show what im talking about.

[2oodoor]

well the cable can get stuck too. fyi
Also the other end of it, is yours connected to the carb or to the gas pedal, they came both ways.
On the air filter, I always thought the only way to go to another air filter box was to use one from a 3rd gen Civic. There is a thread here about this.
Just completing the info, not saying you didnt already know