So, was getting oil leaking, wasn't shure where from, but was getting some smoke from exterior of exhaust manifold. Some... "experts" suggested either head gasketor valve gasket. Then I suddenly began rapidly losing power steering fluid. Mechanic said cheap part, about 80, but 3 hours labor (at 109 an hour). other mechanic told me about 30 mins of work for around 60 or 80. I don't know, any ideas? Anyone else had this issue before?
Try changing your valve gasket or cleaning it up and seeing where it's coming from
"Weight is relative to power like time is relative to speed"
If you are "rapidly" losing PS fluid I would say hoses. If you are paying shop labor rate, yes it will be a pricey job. You can just take the belt off the PS pump to still use the car without power steering and not burn the pump up.
Oil dripping on the exhaust sounds like the oil filter base plate seal between the block and the oil filter base casting plate. Note this is not on the oil filter itself.
I just had to change acouple of weeks ago.
Its only a 1 1/2 - 2 hours worth of work if you are mechanically inclined.
Depending wether you have a LXi (108.97 Autozone) DX, LX (29.97 autozone).
The car has to be jacked up remove the rack cover shield 12mm line wrench unscrew P/S line. Unbolt hold downs. disconnect electrical connector if LXi. Remove P/S line (You can snip it out at this point) Feed new line in, you'll have to make minor bend adjustments for the new line to line up "JUST BE PATIENCE"
Resecure everything and you are done.
Last edited by nswst8; 08-27-2008 at 05:14 AM.
Phil
$60-80 dollars is not unreasonable. If your "NOT" mechanically inclined.Originally Posted by SFCA1987lx
So, was getting oil leaking, wasn't shure where from, but was getting some smoke from exterior of exhaust manifold. Some... "experts" suggested either head gasket
Phil
what is that electric thing on the p/s line anyway?
I had to replace the high pressure power steering hose on my 89 LXi. We replaced ourselves in about 3 hrs. The cost was only $48. I took the busted hose to a local shop. Then they took the fitting off of each end and made me a new hose. If you are inclined enough to make the repairs yourself, Or with a buddy. Check you area and see if someone can do the same with your hose. And becareful because ps fluids is very flamable and it may catch fire dripping on the manifold like that. Mine almost did. I hope this is helpful. The hoses if bought from the parts stores ar better than $100
This is pretty much right on. The only thing I would add is to clean up the rack with brake cleaner prior to unbolting. You don't want 20 years worth of grunge to get into the PS system. And be sure to use Honda fluid or you'll be sad.
If it is indeed your PS hose, you should be able to see the saturation on the hose. If it's leaking, there is a high probability that you will get an engine fire, so you want to fix it sooner rather than later (ie: right now). The hose wends its way around the engine compartment and down through the sub-frame to the rack under the car. I found it a real bear to get it in, so I can see a 3 hour quote.
Good luck!
Dr_Snooz
"I like to take hammers, and just break stuff, just break stuff." - Beavis
1989 Honda Accord LX-i Coupe, 240k miles, MT swap, rear disc swap
Shop manual downloads available here: CLICK TO VIEW
Not entirely sure, it a 2 wire sensor that is at the beginning of the metal tubing. DX and LX model do not have this sensor though. Almost wish I didn't have one either the price difference is a PITA.
Phil
I have replaced mine twice. The first time I actually got the replacement at NAPA for $26 - no shit. They seem to last about ten years at the outside. It seemed like they start oozing a bit through the hose and then leak at the crimp connectors. Contrary to what others might say, it's not that easy of a job, but I found it MUCH easier to feed the new hose in from the bottom of the car rather than from the top. If it only took me an hour I would say that a shop with a lift ought to be able to do it in the 30 minutes quoted. I ordered my last one from Majestic Honda. It was of better quality than the NAPA version.
By the way, the electrical part of which you speak is a pressure switch. It bumps up the idle speed when the line pressure increases. This is to maintain a steady idle speed when you are stopped and you turn the steering wheel. Others may disagree, but I don't think it is that essential, though, it's easy enough to install in the new hose. Make sure you use teflon tape and a new o-ring or that sucker will leak.
Oh, my bad. You have an LX? If that is the case the correct hose for your car will not have the fitting for it. The switch is only used on the FI models. I guess I answered A18A's question instead of the original one. The NAPA hose I bought was universal, I guess, because it had a threaded plug in the sensor hole that you removed if you had a sensor to install. Other sources will sell different hoses for the carbed and FI models.
Good to know information, I knew it was a pressure switch but for what purpose I did not know.
Phil
Well, heres the scoop! Brought it to the other guy and took him a little over an hour, about an hour and a half, he had the hardest time getting the metal part out from down in the rack(did i say that right?) I honestly don't think I've heard such a long, continuous strain of curses before. New hose in, all parts back together, some PS fluid, and good to go! Did 110 on the freeway home, just to make myself feel better.
PS hose- $40
Labor- $125
And you are an A**.
You take a 22 y/o car that is in serious need of suspension/mechanical work and you want to endanger other people to make yourself feel better.
I've transported more idiots like yourself to the morgue than I care to remember.
Phil
Actually, if you read it, you would see I did that, after I had it repaired. My mechanic said that other than the PS hose, my car was pretty much perfect. So that means no longer in need of any kind of work. My driving skill is more than sufficient to drive the way I do, but thanks anyways.
If the guy were a Honda specialist he would have remove the hose from the bottom as well. Working from the bottom avoids having to try to feed the metal portion of the line through the engine parts and around the crossmember. Overall, not an outrageous price, though.
Posting Permissions
Reply With Quote
Bookmarks