My Hoopty

[ShiRen]

Dunno man, I destroyed my first clutch presumably with grease... I've learned to not be so generous with the grease. I mean if its already on the clutch its probably already jeffed though.

So you think you don't have enough travel in the pedal? Have you removed everything behind the pedal and then tried it? There is a thick layer a jute and a plate holding a stopper behind it. I had to remove it on mine.

[Oldblueaccord]

One of the multiple discs I bought the splines on the disc were not broached right ...like they needed to spline it from both sides and the flutes didn't line up well.

Or your splines on the Trans are worn some.

[ShiRen]

I highly doubt anything is wrong with that Exedy, its a good clutch, however, on the off chance there is something wrong, call them up and use their warranty. They will have you a new kit within the week no questions asked.

[Dr_Snooz]

I'm leaning toward a warped disc. There's too much chatter to be caused by a little grease and it's definitely not releasing properly. It crawls forward at lights. I'll fiddle with the adjustment, but it's not getting any real bite until about the middle of the pedal range right now, which indicates that it's right. Who knows? It's another marvelous Dr_Snooz adventure!

[ShiRen]

Does the clutch arm have any play in it if you just move it with your fingers. I had to take the adjuster all the way til I can't move the arm by hand then back it off a hair and then remove the stop and jute from behind the pedal before I could get a full throw.

[Dr_Snooz]

I've had it adjusted that way and everywhere in between. It doesn't make any difference.

[Dr_Snooz]

The battery tray had some surface rust, so I wire brushed it, rust primered and bed linered it.

[Dr_Snooz]

New fog lights and some paint. Haven't done anything with the grill piece yet. It will have to wait.



The fog lights are super cheap eBay garbage but they fit the bumper holes and weren't $400. I'm not expecting much out of them. We'll see how long they live.

[Oldblueaccord]

Picture fail.

[Dr_Snooz]

Working on this end.

[Dr_Snooz]

[Dr_Snooz]

It's actually the website that's broken. It won't let me add pics in the normal way anymore. I tried a simple cut and paste, which is working here, but not for anyone else, I guess.

Why are we still linking to pic hosts like it's 1997?

[Oldblueaccord]

No red X either....terrible.

Microsoft OneDrive - Access files anywhere. Create docs with free Office Online.

this is what I see in the code you used? its forcing it to write as a url but the photo works

ttps://1drv.ms/u/s!AmykSvd_9WdWhJdgjzlyheDZPqghjQ

I left the H letter off to show it above...

[Oldblueaccord]

That clutch cable your using. is that stock?

I wonder if the throw is short on it if its after market.

[ShiRen]

Looks normal. Between my first clutch and second clutch, first cable and second cable, nothing changed, but the one constant between Snooz and I is we have exedy clutches and the stock throw is too short. I am pretty hell bent that for some reason the pedal does not have enough throw with this clutch unless you remove the pedal stop... makes a long throw clutch even longer...

[Dr_Snooz]

I bought another clutch. ATP. It was $20 from Rock so if I throw it away, I won't be too broke up over it. I also got a new cable (the one in the pic is aftermarket). I had to move the adjustment to the outer limit with the new clutch so maybe it's worn out. Though it's only been through one clutch.

I'm not saying the throw is too short. I only know that the friction disc isn't pulling away from the flywheel. The why remains to be seen. It could be that there's insufficient throw, or defects on the input shaft, or problems with the clutch disc, or something else completely. Worst case, I have two cores here which should be enough to make one working trans. Every other part is new, so with all of that, I should be able to make something work.

For the time being, however, I'm focusing on the Gold Car. The Red Car needs a time out to think about what it's done.

[Dr_Snooz]

Figured the clutch out.

Screwball Clutch Issue (3geez.com)

Good grief.

[Dr_Snooz]

As an update, the Gold Car turned into a fiasco. I pulled the engine and had it rebuilt. While I waited, I detailed the engine bay, replaced motor mounts, changed a bunch of hoses that are inaccessible with the engine in place, cleaned up the trans and made everything really nice. I also rebuilt the rack, so that's good for another quarter million miles. It's my best work. I put the engine back in and it runs great. I got everything nailed on the install: no extra bolts, no leaks and no CELs. Again, it's my best work.

Except it has low oil pressure. At idle, it's 11 psi. Ten psi is the lower limit. I called the engine builder and he took the car for a couple months. He checked the bearings, swapped the oil pump (which is a nightmare job on this car), checked everything else he could think of and it's all "perfect."

That's pretty typical for that blasted car. It likes to jab a finger in my eye whenever it can. Thus, it's been sitting in his lot with a For Sale sign on it ever since. I'm so over that car.

[Dr_Snooz]

Oh, forgot to ask. Does anyone have the lowdown on a coolant pipe? I need the one that goes across the back of the block. Mine is toast.

[Oldblueaccord]

As an update, the Gold Car turned into a fiasco. I pulled the engine and had it rebuilt. While I waited, I detailed the engine bay, replaced motor mounts, changed a bunch of hoses that are inaccessible with the engine in place, cleaned up the trans and made everything really nice. I also rebuilt the rack, so that's good for another quarter million miles. It's my best work. I put the engine back in and it runs great. I got everything nailed on the install: no extra bolts, no leaks and no CELs. Again, it's my best work.

Except it has low oil pressure. At idle, it's 11 psi. Ten psi is the lower limit. I called the engine builder and he took the car for a couple months. He checked the bearings, swapped the oil pump (which is a nightmare job on this car), checked everything else he could think of and it's all "perfect."

That's pretty typical for that blasted car. It likes to jab a finger in my eye whenever it can. Thus, it's been sitting in his lot with a For Sale sign on it ever since. I'm so over that car.

Well what is the oil pressure at 3k RPM?

Honda run low at idle and if the bearings look good id run it. Wild guess the shop didnt follow the bearings marked of on the crank and they got some loose ones in there.

[Dr_Snooz]

It was fine at 3k, but it's moot because it's already sold. If it was the first time it did something like that, it would be one thing, but every time I worked on it, it pulled some stunt like that. The troubleshooting charts in the manual were so frequently wrong. I'd end up changing a bunch of stuff that didn't need to be changed and the problem would still be there, unsolvable, after all my work. It didn't help that I never really liked it either. It's someone else's headache now.

[Dr_Snooz]

The Red Car failed smog, being high on CO. I always go to the same tech and he suggested that I replace the O2 sensors. I was skeptical because the old ones didn't have but maybe 50k miles on them, and I didn't have a CEL. Still, I didn't have any better ideas, so I did the basic O2 sensor test in the manual. One of them failed. I replaced them both for about $50. That cleaned it right up and it passed like always. I'm lucky I didn't damage the CAT with the bad tune. With CA's stupid smog laws, a new cat will hurt you real bad (~$500 for the Red Car for the part alone).

I'm still waiting for the tags, but the Red Car is legal to drive again.

Don't know if this will help others, but my tech said that hi CO is usually a problem with fuel delivery: O2 sensors, carb tune, etc. High HC is usually a problem with the ignition system: plugs, wires, etc. My county doesn't test for NOx anymore, but that's usually a problem with EGR.

[Oldblueaccord]

The Red Car failed smog, being high on CO. I always go to the same tech and he suggested that I replace the O2 sensors. I was skeptical because the old ones didn't have but maybe 50k miles on them, and I didn't have a CEL. Still, I didn't have any better ideas, so I did the basic O2 sensor test in the manual. One of them failed. I replaced them both for about $50. That cleaned it right up and it passed like always. I'm lucky I didn't damage the CAT with the bad tune. With CA's stupid smog laws, a new cat will hurt you real bad (~$500 for the Red Car for the part alone).

I'm still waiting for the tags, but the Red Car is legal to drive again.

Don't know if this will help others, but my tech said that hi CO is usually a problem with fuel delivery: O2 sensors, carb tune, etc. High HC is usually a problem with the ignition system: plugs, wires, etc. My county doesn't test for NOx anymore, but that's usually a problem with EGR.

Well very good news it passed!

I think unless there is "no" signal they O2 wont code out.

[Dr_Snooz]

That explains it then. The signal was crap, but it was sending it.

That's what's so nice about OBD2, the computer would have told me the signal was crap long before I failed smog. People say the new cars are too hard to figure out. What's to figure out? You hook up your scan tool and it tells you what to fix. Who wouldn't want that?

[Oldblueaccord]

That explains it then. The signal was crap, but it was sending it.

That's what's so nice about OBD2, the computer would have told me the signal was crap long before I failed smog. People say the new cars are too hard to figure out. What's to figure out? You hook up your scan tool and it tells you what to fix. Who wouldn't want that?

Hey did you keep them?

Ill try them on my car and see how they run with a wide band.