Ok so Im having a issue with my B20A. When I start it up it runs fine with no check engine lights. But after I drive it for a while it boggs down like its not getting enough fuel and then the check engine light comes on while Im driving. I checked the ecu and its not giving me any codes. Could this be a fuel map issue? Anyone with any input? Thanks
If it is starving for fuel it should be spitting back (backfiring) into the intake when you put a good load on the engine.Originally Posted by bullard123
The in tank strainer for the pick up tube (fuel pump) may not be flowing good. Using premium fuel lately? that softens up the screen, if it is an old screen.
One other thing, do you have a voltmeter? It could be a voltage regulator letting the system over charge too. Anything peakng over 15 vdc will throw off the ECU parameters.
Just a few things that could happen after driving it a spell.
Last edited by 2oodoor; 10-29-2008 at 03:06 PM.
welcome to the club bullard, mines been doin that for a while now. Do you notice your tac bouncing around?
there are no codes with the engine running and the check engine light on?
Did you get a chance to replace the injector "O" rings?
Did you double check every bolt and nut on the intake?
we still need to trouble shoot the egr.
we need figure out why those wires are cut at the black box and or fix them.
Nope my tac doesn't bounce around. It runs and idles fine even while im drive it and all of a sudden the check engine lights comes on out of nowhere and it feels like its not getting enough fuel. I have the Pk2 fuel maps in my goldtop ecu. Wonder if this could be the problem
Nope there are no codes when the engine is running. I replaced the egr monday with one from the junkyard that I cleaned out throughly. The one I had on there was really black with carbon etc. I think that was because of the O2 sensor issue though.
sounds like the ecu is going into limp mode for some reason. Your hybrid ecu may be the cause of it or maybe it's just not able to give you this particular error code because it's not entirely compatible with what you've done to it.
So are you saying that when the light comes on, if you stop the car, turn it off and then turn the ignition back on, the ecu doesnt show anything?
You're talking about the EGR. If the ecu detects a non functioning EGR the car will react as you described because the ecu goes into limp mode.
You're using a JDM B20A goldtop ecu with pk2 software, no? That sounds fishy to me since the goldtop ecu is nothing like the pk2 ecu as far as I know.
Yes that is what it is doing exactly. Yes Im using Pk2 fuel maps in the goldtop ecu. Im going to put the Ph3 maps in today and see what happens. The Pk2 ecu is pretty much th e same as the B20A except for the second 02 sensor and fuel maps
Last edited by bullard123; 10-30-2008 at 01:29 PM.
Ok so where are the fuel maps located on the PH3 ecu?
Ok so I switched the PK2 fuel maps out with the PH3 one and started the car. I got a check engine light immediately and a solid red light on the ecu
This is what i understood from bullard. Tooloudnproud sent him a chipped pk2 with goldtop fuel/timing map.
The ph3 is just a stock ecu...
i am sure the egr has wiring a issue...
Last edited by 89T; 10-30-2008 at 03:30 PM.
should have just done away with the EGR, and ran the gold top ecu i sent ya without modifying it yo
what ecu did you send him?
a 1985 gold top b20a's PH3. the one with two LEDs in it. it has no error codes for EGR or iacv
ok i belive he still has that one, unmolested. The ecu is fine.the wiring is whats questionable.
How do i get rid of the egr without throwing a code?
Last edited by 89T; 10-30-2008 at 09:16 PM.
the way i would do it is run the gold top ecu i send, change the ignitor wires from pin b15/b17 to A8 so it will run, then just unplug and remove anything to do with the egr and it should run beautifully with no error codes
swapping around the fuel maps isnt going to kill an error code but if its the egr wiring at fail thats the simplest fix i can offer, dont need egr haha
thank you .i really appreciate the help and i am sure bullard does too. Bullard is stopping by this morning to repair a set of wires that were cut. he is also running a prelude external igniter with the power coming from one of those cut wires.
i will post a update later.
the gold top ecu will not run the 88-89 idle controls properly. So if your using the a20 intake manifold, or the stock blacktop manifold its not going to idle.
edit:he sent the b20a ecu to tommy,and he sent back a chipped pk2 with gold top maps.???????
so he has a stock pk2 and a chipped pk2.
I don't know! lol.. I'll stay out of that mess.
anyways bullard rolled in with the pk2 stock chip(i didn't know till later),with the engine light on.
I checked the wiring in question,and when i connected it it would kill the engine. i think it was a white wire bottom left of the black box plug. He has the igniter wired in to the ecu side of it. seems to work fine. next we checked for continuity from sensor plug to firewall plug and everything checked out. so i notice that there were 2 vacuum lines going straight to the short ram. I was like wth are those there for? they were for the vacuum advance on the A20 dizzy.I didn't realize he still had the A20 intake manifold...duh.. so it introduced a vacuum leak to the system. I checked all the vacuum lines just in case. sure enough 12 and 16 were swapped.. the egr and secondary valve did not have any vacuum source... started the car back up and still had the check engine light on.. I was like wtf. bullard had then told me he had swapped the ph3 chip out for the stock pk2 chip.so we go to pull the chip out and it was pretty loose.
explanation: there is a locking mechanism to hold the chip in place.but that little deal slides into another one that has no locks,and thats where it was loose. Anyway we stuck the ph3 chip in and made sure it was tight.
started the car up and............................>no light no codes! bullard had to go to work. I just called him and no codes no light... he did say it is idling smooth but at 1100 rpms.
I was in fear of having to read through millions of b20a swap post's!wheoo.
God please say that i am done...lol! ;)
Last edited by 89T; 10-31-2008 at 10:21 AM.
Yep pretty much what he said lol. Thanks Jerry!
simple as that aye, well done
as in regard to the post about the idle controls, I remove it as i like to set my idle manually.
now im waiting for the OBD1 swap bullard :):)
OBD1 swap with a b16a2 intake will make your engine a beast, and will get rid of that ugly intake manifold
OK lets get this straight what i did for bullard123 i took his Ph3 85-86 ecu i pulled the chip out of it copy the maps off of it then re-burned the maps to a new chip (27C256) then i put it in a chipped Pk2 ecu and i all so sent him the chip that Carotman made me for my pk2 for he can compare them since i am not using the PK2 ecu anymore so i have no way to compare them and by using the Pk2 he did not have to change any of the wires now using the 85-86 PH3 you would need to change like five or six wires but the 85-86 PH3 also uses the older intake unlike the intake you have now.The Pk2 i sent to you is the one i was using in my accord before i went OBD-1 and it was working fine when i pulled it out that way i gave it to you. Now for the Ph3 i thought it was sent back to you so i asked my wife she was the one who boxed it up for me she told me she did not put it in the box she put it in the storage so i will get it out over the weekend and send it to you some time next week to you so if you feel i did you Wong all i can say is Sorry i was just trying to help you the best way i can.
LX-R coming soon Here's a hint. 89mm stroke/ 41.60cc head /ARP head & main stud's /SRP piston's 81.5mm 9:5:1/Crower Rod's & more to come
on the topic of maps on chips.. if i stole the map from a 85-87 PH3 and put it on a 27c256 and stuck it straight in my obd1 ecu it will run my motor good?
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