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Thread: LOWER - read me

  1. #1
    LXi User
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    LOWER - read me

    WHat's the lowest lowering i can get for my sedan 3gee without having to get the chamber fixed up on it?
    Does this amount look good?



  2. #2
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    Sorry about the dumb question,
    its prolly been asked and answered before....
    is it something like 1.5" is the lowest drop?

  3. #3
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    Are there many (i'm not intentionally post whoring!~)
    Is there a noticable performance difference?
    handling difference? etc..?

  4. #4
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    you got it right 1.5 is safe..dont nkow about performance advatages and things but from wat ive heard its not a noticable Differnece in look
    New Black Paint, Custom Gauges, Custom Interior Lighting, NEw Floor matts YEAHH!!!, JVC MP3 Head, Kenwod 6x9"s, Custom Mesh Grille,
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  5. #5
    SEi User TeKKnoTeKK's Avatar
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    well the lower you go the lower the center of gravity is going to be.....therefore I would think the lower you go the better the car will handle considering you have the correct struts and spring rates. But what do I know lol.
    -Aaron-
    "I play russian roulette everyday, a man's sport, with a bullet called life"



  6. #6
    SEi User jigga225's Avatar
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    depending on what look you want
    1.5 wont look SLAMMED if thas what u wnat...
    just get ready to break bread to do it right

  7. #7
    3Geez Veteran
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    Originally posted by TeKKnoTeKK
    well the lower you go the lower the center of gravity is going to be.....therefore I would think the lower you go the better the car will handle considering you have the correct struts and spring rates. But what do I know lol.
    You will never see cars with extream lowering compeating sucessfully in any track event, you do need suspension travel.
    Having the correct strut dampening for the springs your running does make a tremendious differance. A lower center of gravity is a good thing, but go to low and you give up to much suspension travel, the trick is, where's the happy medium. I think it's between 2" and 1.5". I set 1.5" as my drop limit. Why? Because I didn't want to crawl over speed bumps and into driveways. And When I really pushed the car hard, real hard I found I could benefit from even stiffer springs and struts that are better (more expensive) than the koni's. In other word's if I went any lower I'd be bottoming out the struts all the time, NOT GOOD! And that is why I had the front Bilstein's revalved, because I was prepairing to get stiffer springs, never got a chance. So if you don't see yourself driving at or close to 10/10'ths I could see a 2" drop. The less likely you are to push it, the lower I can see someone doing.

    I'll tell ya right now the H&R's + Koni's is one hell of a sweet combination. Never ever any bounce, not single bong over a medium bump or a big one. If you were cornering as hard as you could and you hit a bump, it's not stiff so that the whole car jumps sideway's. You hear and feel the bump, but just like a good setup, it flat out doesn't effect the car and you don't loose a smidge of grip. My car flat out begged to be driven and it was fun as hell. Problem was, it made me want even more as you read above.
    H&R springs revalved Bilstein front struts, koni struts in the rear 195/55-15 Dunlop W-10's Dc Sports header custom cat-back with Dynomax super turbo w/3" Brembo slotted & dimpled rotor's EBC pads
    Well, that's what I used to have, wrecked, 7/3/02.

    Now I d

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