Forged Internals and B18 intake

[God]

First off God is always everywhere so and so wat if my peeps are beaners but yea i have started to look around have been gettin a lot of info... but are you tellin me that after i build the motor im still only going to be doin 100whp this is a list of wat im lookin to do

Block Prep:+.020", 9.2:1
Head Prep:Race Port and Polish, High Compression Valve Springs(Wanna bout a 7500 red line still looking into companys)Delta 262 cam
Skunk2 B Series Intake Manifold
Skunk2 B Series 70mm Throtle Body
MSD-6A Ignition
MSD Blaster 2 Coil
10mm MSD Spark Plug Wires
35 Shot NOS(Bumped up to a 75-100shot after build)
Pacesetter Header(Till I get motor buildt for turbo)
2.5"Exhaust(No cats strait pipe wit a fart can out the back)
Aeromotive A1000 Fuel Pump/Filter
Aeromotive A1000 Fuel Regulater
Skunk2 Fuel Rail
Wepon R Short Ram Intake
Golden Eagel Adjustable Cam Gear
AC Delete(Saves weight and a few ponies)
Skunk2 550cc injectors
OBD1 Conversion
AEM Standalone EMS

Then After the Motor Gets Completly Buildt
T3/T4 Turbo(3" intake piping)
FMI
Blitz BOV
Greddy Wastegate
Greddy Electric Boost Controler(Electric 4-6psi street, 14-18psi race)


This is jus a real basic mod list there is a few minor things im hoping will get a few extra ponies but im still going for 325-350whp without juice the that extra 75-100 with the push of a botton but tell me wat you guys think

[bobafett]

Overall I think it sounds like a pretty decent plan. Here are some things I might revise if I was doing it...

Start with 3" exhaust. You will want it once you are boosted, no sense in buying 2.25" or 2.5" and then paying again for 3" once you can use it.

Fuel rail is sort of a waste of money unless there is a specific reason for going there (I wanted to be able to easily run -AN fuel lines, and to have a fuel pressure gauge on the rail - if you won't be doing that, consider just running a stock B-series rail)

Personally I think 550cc injectors might be a bit too small. Here is a web page that can help you calculate that: http://www.injector.com/injectorselection.php

With 350hp, and a BSFC of .65 at a max duty cycle of 80%, we need 746cc/min fuel injectors.

With a larger turbo like a t3/t4 (depending on the size you go with) 4-6 psi is going to be way out of the efficiency range. Also, it would be sort of impossible to hold a stable 14-18 psi if you have a 4psi wastegate spring. Try something like a 10-12 psi spring which should be much more reliable at higher boost pressures. You don't want it failing up there at the end of an 18psi freeway pull. Also, if you motor is tuned well enough to handle 18 psi, it will handle 10-12 psi allllll day long.

Lastly, I would urge you to consider what you might spend to get an OBD1 conversion and the AEM EMS. Part #: 30-1040U $2,105.61 comes with a wideband, but also factor in the cost of a distributor http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/_Car-...=p4506.c0.m245 about $130, etc etc, it can add up to a decent amount, especially if you factor the cost of your ignition parts. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/_Car-...=p4506.c0.m245

It can get close to $3000 really fast just for engine management, not counting fueling costs. It might be worth it to just run a true standalone system in this case. I think it was close to 3k for my engine management setup, but there are a couple of additional costs like the crimping tool for the metri-pack and weather-pack connectors, a separate wideband sensor, and machining costs for the trigger wheel to be mounted to the crank pulley.

Overall you will have a better setup (imo) but probably going to have a much steeper learning curve to get it tuned. However I can provide you with a solid base map that will start and idle and low throttle work great for an accord with stock injectors and a 3 bar map sensor.

If you DO want more info I am happy to help point you in the right direction.

[bobafett]

I have a couple threads you might browse through to learn more if you are inclined:

https://www.3geez.com/forum/showthread.php?t=64229

https://www.3geez.com/forum/showthread.php?t=7872 - skip ahead in this thread, it started in 02 when i was thinking about getting boosted. just keep bumping ahead until you see pictures, that is where it gets interesting.

[89T]

no the 100hp was just an example....
listen to bobbafett though, he really knows his shit...

it sounds like a solid build, except for the exhaust and injectors in my opinion they are too small.

i am running 850cc injectors at 14 psi and under full boost their at 45% duty cycle.

[God]

Yea thats what i thought jus makin sure though and those links were really helpful your build is amazin is that a painless chassis harness cuz it kinda looks for it I do wanna go wit a AEM Standalone though and is that part number you gave me earlyer the one i would need when i convert to OBD-1 but i was wonderin i wanna install a short ram intake but i was lookin at the stock air box and there is a sensor on the box behind the manifold what do i do about that? how do i hook up a short ram intake its a Wepon R short ram from www.andysautosport.com

[bobafett]

Part #: 30-1040U will work for a B18A (P75) Integra, this is normally the ECU that many people start with for their OBD1 swap. It should be compatible with an ODB1 swapped accord.

Yes, I am using a painless 12 circuit 'drag' fuse panel on my car, talk about a PITA! Although I got rid of a lot of wires, they are taking up 2 boxes in my garage. ;-)

My 86 definitely didn't have any sensors on the back of the IM that had anything to do with the intake system, just a few vacuum lines. It should just be a matter of clamping the new intake on to the throttle body, and removing all the stock plastic junk just to get it out of the way.

Might have a few vacuum lines to reroute, but its generally simple stuff.

[gfrg88]

i doubt you'll pull 325-350hp on 14 psi.......
you may be able to get that with 14 psi + 100 shot.
or possibly 20 psi and a 50 shot.
figures taken from banks turbo.
figure n/a hp + 8% gain per pound of boost.

say 100hp n/a = 8hp per psi
8hp X 14psi = 112hp
112hp + 100hp = 212hp

i have compared figures with my dyno sheet and the figures were within 2 hp.

at the same 100hp
8hp x 25psi = 200hp
200hp + 100hp = 300hp

if you pull 350hp on 14psi without nitrous you would be god! lol!

349WHP on 10 psi

am i god??

[89T]

and that was on a a20 accord?

[God]

im not sure exactly wat the term would be but the piping goes from the throtle body go to the box behind the manifold the "sensor" is on the drivers side of the car and has 2 vacum lines coming off it, it is held on by two screws wat is that and is it something the i can jus take off or will it screw into the short ram and then i will jus need to run longer vacum lines

[evil88accordLX]

349WHP on 10 psi

am i god??

no, you seem to be able to spell, use correct punctuation, and form coherent sentences. you are definitely NOT god.

[God]

no, you seem to be able to spell, use correct punctuation, and form coherent sentences. you are definitely NOT god.

Im going to ask you nicely if you are jus going to be on here to hate dont post if you have helpful information then you are more then welcome im very thankful for the people on here like bobafet and the others im not tryin to be a dick but people that have nothing better to do but say shit bout someone they dont even kno over a screen really need to grow up not going to lie... thank you and have a nice day

[gfrg88]

no, you seem to be able to spell, use correct punctuation, and form coherent sentences. you are definitely NOT god.

LOL, it was on h22.. i was jus being a whore like always..

[2oodoor]

figured he could pick up a ride at Zues Lexus

.

my bad, he rides Infinity

[God]

Lastly, I would urge you to consider what you might spend to get an OBD1 conversion and the AEM EMS. Part #: 30-1040U $2,105.61 comes with a wideband, but also factor in the cost of a distributor

It can get close to $3000 really fast just for engine management, not counting fueling costs. It might be worth it to just run a true standalone system in this case. I think it was close to 3k for my engine management setup, but there are a couple of additional costs like the crimping tool for the metri-pack and weather-pack connectors, a separate wideband sensor, and machining costs for the trigger wheel to be mounted to the crank pulley.

Overall you will have a better setup (imo) but probably going to have a much steeper learning curve to get it tuned. However I can provide you with a solid base map that will start and idle and low throttle work great for an accord with stock injectors and a 3 bar map sensor.

If you DO want more info I am happy to help point you in the right direction.

If I did go with the AEM EMS wouldnt that cause the computer to try and put the VTECH on a NON-VTECH Motor and make it run really rich... Im startin to think stuff out now so i dont run into it later if it would be possible for you to give me more information on the EMS you are running i would really appriceiate it thanks

[2oodoor]

no, you seem to be able to spell, use correct punctuation, and form coherent sentences. you are definitely NOT god.

sometimes he uses mobile txt so you know how he rolls

[Accordtheory]

Just to throw my $.02 or whatever in here, first, why are you guys talking about the aem system so much, when, among others, the hondata s300 is way cheaper, and just as valid as an option? The s300 can also do boost control, boost by gear, and boost vs rpm in a certain gear, and it has a lot of other neat features most people probably don't even use. The aem can run coil packs and staged injection, but you don't need that for 400whp or so, that's for sure.
You also don't need the expensive a1000 pump or aeromotive fpr either, the walbro will do fine up to a little over 600whp, and an oem regulator (94+ gsr, 99-00si) will work too up to around that level. That's for 91 octane though, for e85, figure you need about 30% more fuel.
I also say don't run nitrous, I look down on that shit as something for people who don't know how to make power any other way. It's also pretty easy to damage your motor using nitrous..

[evil88accordLX]

Im going to ask you nicely if you are jus going to be on here to hate dont post if you have helpful information then you are more then welcome im very thankful for the people on here like bobafet and the others im not tryin to be a dick but people that have nothing better to do but say shit bout someone they dont even kno over a screen really need to grow up not going to lie... thank you and have a nice day

im not trying to hate or be a dick, but it gets frustrating to try and decipher what you are saying/what your question is when there is only one big giant run-on sentence of 100+ phonetically spelled words.

[Accordtheory]

Here are my quick revisions to this list..written in about a minute.
Block Prep:+.020", 9.2:1
You might not even need to go .5mm over with only 56k on the block.

Head Prep:Race Port and Polish,
Most people don't know how to do this properly. Flow tested after it's done to prove it was worth it? I'd personally pay more for an untouched head than a head done by some random shop.

High Compression Valve Springs(Wanna bout a 7500 red line still looking into companys)Delta 262 cam
Maybe.

Skunk2 B Series Intake Manifold
Or aebs, if you want to save a little $.

Skunk2 B Series 70mm Throtle Body
Not really necessary. An oem b series would work fine.

MSD-6A Ignition
MSD Blaster 2 Coil
10mm MSD Spark Plug Wires
Probably also not necessary. People on h-t always say msd products are garbage, who knows..

2.5"Exhaust(No cats strait pipe wit a fart can out the back)
Just go with a 3" right away. I'd never run a tip bigger than the actual piping diameter, it is pointless and just makes it louder and more annoying.

Aeromotive A1000 Fuel Pump/Filter
Aeromotive A1000 Fuel Regulater
Skunk2 Fuel Rail
Walbro, oem, and oem.


Golden Eagel Adjustable Cam Gear
Probably not necessary.

550cc injectors
Too small. Go to rceng.com and use their calculator. If you want to save a little $ and don't need bigger, you can use modified wrx injectors, I think they're around 780cc and they are saturated, so you can lose the stupid resistor box. Honda ecus do not have true peak and hold driver circuitry. I sold a set of those for about $130, if I remember correctly.

OBD1 Conversion
AEM Standalone EMS
I'd go with the Hondata s300.

Then After the Motor Gets Completly Buildt
T3/T4 Turbo(3" intake piping)
2.5 or 2.75 is perfectly adequate.

FMI
Make sure it's large enough..
Blitz BOV
Personal preference, I guess.

Greddy Wastegate
Tial 44m v band?

Greddy Electric Boost Controler(Electric 4-6psi street, 14-18psi race)
Not necessary with the s300. Just need a solenoid and a few add ons to the ecu.

[LX-incredible]

if I Did Go With The Aem Ems Wouldnt That Cause The Computer To Try And Put The Vtech On A Non-vtech Motor And Make It Run Really Rich... Im Startin To Think Stuff Out Now So I Dont Run Into It Later If It Would Be Possible For You To Give Me More Information On The Ems You Are Running I Would Really Appriceiate It Thanks

VTECH yo!!!!!!!!!!!!

[2oodoor]

LXincredible I Was Thinking The SameThing ,Sounds Like (God) Is Building a D series.

But hey have fun and don't use all the golden eggs on wasted parts. No body is hating, but you should expect some freindlee flaming with the screen name dood u picked it knowing it was intimidating or obnoxious get your head otto Dee clouds piece and good will to all men k thanx

[Accordtheory]

If I did go with the AEM EMS wouldnt that cause the computer to try and put the VTECH on a NON-VTECH Motor and make it run really rich... Im startin to think stuff out now so i dont run into it later if it would be possible for you to give me more information on the EMS you are running i would really appriceiate it thanks

I started cracking up when I read this, but it's actually not really a dumb question for someone who is learning this shit.
First, it's vtec, not vtech. Valve Timing Electronic Control.
The answer is that vtec can be disabled or enabled, the tune is what determines how the motor runs. Obviously the wire to the vtec solenoid will not go anywhere or do anything either way with a non vtec head. Same with the vtec oil pressure sensor. The reason for leaving the vtec enabled in the software is higher resolution in the high rpm maps. The hondata system, and most others, have separate maps for the high cam and low cam.

[God]

I started cracking up when I read this, but it's actually not really a dumb question for someone who is learning this shit.
First, it's vtec, not vtech. Valve Timing Electronic Control.
The answer is that vtec can be disabled or enabled, the tune is what determines how the motor runs. Obviously the wire to the vtec solenoid will not go anywhere or do anything either way with a non vtec head. Same with the vtec oil pressure sensor. The reason for leaving the vtec enabled in the software is higher resolution in the high rpm maps. The hondata system, and most others, have separate maps for the high cam and low cam.

Again im not really that good with Honda terms sorry but I was told when I do a OBD1 conversion I should use a stock P75 ECU and then after I get it running have it chipped. This is the most confusing part of this build is the conversion, Im not the best when it comes to wiring however Im not afraid to learn as long as I have someone that has done it willing to take the time to explain it. I mean thats what building a car is about not just seeing who can make the fastest one(though it is fun) but helping each other while doing it. Also the vacume lines are throwing me off really bad its kinda hard to fallow em when Im not exactly sure what is what and what is a must have and what is something that I dont need.

[rjudgey]

If your only running to 7500rpm just use 2nd gen prelude carbed head springs, also headwork go to this place they seem to be the people who know what they are doing off, and use web cam grind.

http://www.cccylinderheads.com/

[Accordtheory]

Again im not really that good with Honda terms sorry but I was told when I do a OBD1 conversion I should use a stock P75 ECU and then after I get it running have it chipped. This is the most confusing part of this build is the conversion

Get a diagram of the a20 harness/connections at the ecu, get a diagram of the obd1 pinout, take an obd1 harness, and merge it together with the a20 harness, adding the necessary wires for the distributor, o2, etc. Certain things you change clean up your engine bay, like using the b series map sensor on the throttle body, the b series iacv on the manifold instead of the remote mounted iac on the accord, etc. Make a separate subconnector at the firewall for the additional wires, and run that to an obd0-obd1 jumper at the ecu. You'll want to practice soldering and heat shrinking before you attempt this, obviously. I'd say the technically most difficult aspect of this is adapting an obd1 distributor to the a20. I have not done this myself, but a few people on here have, I guess. It's not really that hard to do though.
The stupid vacuum box and all of those lines will be removed, including the entire egr system. All you'll have with obd1 is your evap purge charcoal canister shit, your hoses to your pcv valve, brake booster, fpr, little shit like that.
As far as the p75, "chipped" I guess, more like socketed and converted to something like the s300, neptune, ectune, crome, etc. A p75 map would run the stock a20, but not ideally. For forced induction, of course you would need a tuneable solution.

[God]

Get a diagram of the a20 harness/connections at the ecu, get a diagram of the obd1 pinout, take an obd1 harness, and merge it together with the a20 harness, adding the necessary wires for the distributor, o2, etc. Certain things you change clean up your engine bay, like using the b series map sensor on the throttle body, the b series iacv on the manifold instead of the remote mounted iac on the accord, etc. Make a separate subconnector at the firewall for the additional wires, and run that to an obd0-obd1 jumper at the ecu. You'll want to practice soldering and heat shrinking before you attempt this, obviously. I'd say the technically most difficult aspect of this is adapting an obd1 distributor to the a20. I have not done this myself, but a few people on here have, I guess. It's not really that hard to do though.
The stupid vacuum box and all of those lines will be removed, including the entire egr system. All you'll have with obd1 is your evap purge charcoal canister shit, your hoses to your pcv valve, brake booster, fpr, little shit like that.
As far as the p75, "chipped" I guess, more like socketed and converted to something like the s300, neptune, ectune, crome, etc. A p75 map would run the stock a20, but not ideally. For forced induction, of course you would need a tuneable solution.

can u jus order a hondata s300 that plugs into where the p75 did