Lazy man's distributor overhaul (TEC distributor)

[DBMaster]

I can't remember, did you check your vacuum advance diaphragm? It's holding vacuum right?

That's always a good question. Here's an interesting observation, though. I replaced my vacuum module a few years ago when I applied vacuum to it and it would not hold. I thought my surging idle that happened when coasting on hot days (over 80) might be due to that. Even though it would not hold vacuum when applied with a hand pump the advance was still maintained as long as vacuum continued to be applied. I am wondering if there is a chance that it actually is not intended to hold vacuum once vacuum is absent at the ports. It also did not resolve my surging issue. None of the many parts I have replaced since that started have done anything for that.

[Dr_Snooz]

No, it should hold vacuum. The vacuum source will fall once the car is turned off, so you wouldn't need to design that into the diaphragm. I'd say you have a vacuum leak.

I just did another lazy rebuild on my dizzie. I used heavier weight oil this time and very thick and tacky hi-temp, waterproof grease. I'll post back with my results over time.

[DBMaster]

I just wish I could find it! It has been sought after by the mechanics at McNatt Honda as well as by Danny's Import Services. If that's what it is it is damned elusive. I figured maybe it was a part in the transmission that controls downshifts, or the lockup mechanism in the torque converter. That was just because no one can find a leak, or any other problem that could cause that surge. I more or less stopped worrying about it as a sign of imminent failure after five years or so of it.

[Dr_Snooz]

I More Or Less Stopped Worrying About It As A Sign Of Imminent Failure After Five Years Or So Of It.

Lol!

[jdmaccordnut]

I just did this, but didn't pull the whole thing apart. Instead I just oiled the bearings, because the rest of the thing felt okay, even after 273,000 miles. I also replaced the rotor/cap. It still bounces, but not nearly as much, it is able to idle a little lower, and it has MORE POWER!

[DBMaster]

I don't think the guy at Hi-Tes is going to email me back.

[jdmaccordnut]

Also, make sure to order a gasket for the rotor cap.... mine fell into like 10 pieces, so I put it back on with silicone. It looks kinda ghet, but whatever.

[AC439]

I don't think the guy at Hi-Tes is going to email me back.

Thanks for trying.

I have taken apart the dissy again. I expected to see one larger spring and one smaller spring. However, the two springs look identical and they have about 8 turns. Therefore, I briefly extended one spring to the way like when I first took them apart. So, now they should come in two stages. I still haven't got the vacuum advanced yet. I disco the vacuum lines from the advance and plug them (since it is not working and have a leak, I think plugging them makes sense). There is not a lot of junk yards around and those nearby I checked and they don't have it. So, I'm going to order the one from RockAuto when I order the suspension stuffs later. Oh well...... bad economy....not enough work.....not enough money to buy parts to fix the car....

-AC

[Oldblueaccord]

Also, make sure to order a gasket for the rotor cap.... mine fell into like 10 pieces, so I put it back on with silicone. It looks kinda ghet, but whatever.

That might end up causing moisture to build up in the cap if it is not vent well. We used to do it four wheeling all the time I learned the hadr way on that one.

Actually on a whole nother vein some racers vent there cap to let the ozone out. Ill let you guys search for it.

[Dr_Snooz]

I always just put the pieces back carefully and jam the cap on quickly before they fall out again...

I've only had the tach hop one time since my last lazy rebuild. Woohoo! I putting crazy miles on the car these days, by the way.

[DBMaster]

I bought a new rubber gasket last time I ordered a cap from Majestic. For the 99 Oasis I used to have (98 Odyssey) when I ordered the cap from Majestic it came with a new gasket. No such luck for the 3G, but it's a cheap part.

[import racer]

Can I use dielectric grease on the igniter to dizzy body or should it be silicone.

[ecogabriel]

Can I use dielectric grease on the igniter to dizzy body or should it be silicone.

Silicone grease - heatsink compound - is what should be used.

Radioshack sells it for 3-4 bucks a piece. You need VERY LITTLE - a very thin coat to ensure proper heat transfer... that's all.

If you have ever taken apart your computer's CPU heatsink, the same compound to ensure heat transfer can be used (although that is more expensive)

[import racer]

In the 4 dizzys I have all of them have the same type of springs,They both look the same except one spring looks like it is stretched more than the other one.

[Dr_Snooz]

Can I use dielectric grease on the igniter to dizzy body or should it be silicone.

They are the same thing.

[Dr_Snooz]

Just a quick note: I put my jumpy tach to bed for good and all when I replaced my ICM.

[POS carb]

here are some pics I took while tearing down my Tec:
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/758889...accord/page-11

[A20A1]

Good pics Eric.


I see one of my pics up there snooz, I recognize it from the dizzy dissection thread. They are both of carbureted dizzys though. TEC and Hitachi. Possibly why people are getting confused about the springs being different.
https://www.3geez.com/forum/showthread.php?t=53918

I don't mind having a distributor rebuild How-to, we can pool the images, possibly get sharper ones. I know I'd like more pics of a cleaner distributor and advance diaphragm without the tape job.

[Dr_Snooz]

Oh no! I got caught plagiarizing!!! Ack!

Thanks A20A1!

[POS carb]

holy shit it's mike! where've u been?

[niles]

Old thread but good info! So I wanted to add to it...

Dr_Snooz is this the test procedure you were looking for? If it is, please, keep your eye teeth.

[Dr_Snooz]

Yes it is! Someone else clued me on another thread, so I added the relevant info to the manual and re-uploaded it. Thanks for putting it here in the this thread!

[rigel]

resurrecting this thread because it's relevant to me.

because i had the dizzy and therm housing off and needed something to do while it was raining (no garage), and because one of the nuts in the thermo housing is so corroded the head torqued off, i decided to completely overhaul the dizzy.

first, the vacuum advance housing was completely destroyed, so i need to go to the yard for another anyway (and hope it hasnt been scooped yet).

but taking out and trying to clean the breaker plate was just a bad move all around. the plastic bearing retainer just disintegrated, and shortly thereafter the bearings fell out entirely. oops.

if i could find just a source for the retainer + bearings that would work fine for me, as the rest of the dizzy cleaned up nicely, but that seems like a real long shot. the little springs on the governor are pretty loose and dont have much spring in them though, so those maybe could stand to be replaced too, but i have no idea how much force they were intended by the factory to make.

so, i expect i'm basically just going to have to get a while new distributor from the yard, huh?

[Dr_Snooz]

Wish you had read this thread before opening it up: https://www.3geez.com/forum/3geez-acc...ibutor+rebuild. I only came up with the Lazy Rebuild as a stopgap to nurse the old distributors along and prevent having to rebuild. Anyway, Richporter makes new distributors for us now and sells them on eBay (Distributor Richporter TD43K Fits 86 89 Honda Accord 2 0L L4 | eBay). They get good reviews and are entirely new (not reman). It makes little sense to fart around trying to overhaul an old one with parts that don't exist. Just buy a new distributor and drive.

[rigel]

i already pulled one that looked like it was in good condition, so I'll nurse it along for now. new is >$100 more and I'm trying to do this on a budget....