Also it was wierd as hell.....The Temp motor came out a SE-i the flywheel was ten times ligher. SO now i figured there putting out more hp for that reason.
Also it was wierd as hell.....The Temp motor came out a SE-i the flywheel was ten times ligher. SO now i figured there putting out more hp for that reason.
200+ ALL MOTOR LS VTEC
I take it you got my pm...
Coming along nice, the corona that is! The box is almost gone!
just got pm..........
I dont know the forum didnt notify me or my women check it.
But we got most of it knocked out.
200+ ALL MOTOR LS VTEC
nice, when you guy's are done there come on over and help me finnish mine.
LOL.....I would be over alot if you where close. kick back and have a beer and work on the accords lol
200+ ALL MOTOR LS VTEC
Just some guys sitting and standing around, I don't see any work going on!
Sweet to see you getting something done man, I hope it works for you.
lol gotta have the box of coronas right?
looks like a good day of work tho. better be some full boost videos soon!
Originally Posted by CAH
i think the coronas are talking here...lol
1989 Honda Accord LX-i
B18c1 swap since 7/2011
175whp and 132tq
Redzone tuned
I need to replace the axles seals and transfer oil pan an thats it. but I was going to drop the motor in today but im going to take the time and clean the bay first take some more shit out...clean it up...maybe paint it..
200+ ALL MOTOR LS VTEC
paint the bay pink.
HAHA! Pink ftmfw!
Ooooooo DAMN. Then ill be PURE JDM yo
200+ ALL MOTOR LS VTEC
sweet!! lol and where are the vids rendon??
Not as of yet fellers. Well soon
200+ ALL MOTOR LS VTEC
They are different, but not drastically. I don't see it being an issue with a stock cam. Not sure about a bigger cam, which is why I'm going to measure Josh's entire motor once he drops it off at my place.
From pictures alone, it seems like the rods are nearly the same length, the b18a rods being a few cunt hairs longer. This is a good thing. Longer rods means less side loading on the sleeves, which means you widen your window of maximum power. It also means you can rev higher, safer.
Where I see an issue is with the pistons. The compression height on the B18a piston seems to be quite a bit different. This causes the piston to stick out above the deck. This can be bad for a few reasons.
My biggest concern is piston to valve clearance, as well as piston to head clearance. I've only so far seen pictures of stock ls rods/pistons in an a20 and the valve pockets aren't in the correct place and can cause some damage with bigger cams. Usually though, forged pistons have larger/deeper valve pockets so it might not even be an issue.
Another issue is squish/quench area. If the piston sticks out too much, the squish area can become very minimal and it's not very safe at higher rpms. I like to have a minimum of .04" for steel rods and boosted applications.
If my calculations and measurements come out unsafe, I'll look into another piston option(from different motors). Kinda like vitaras in D series, or DSM pistons in F22's.
As for compression, its a non issue with a competent tuner. I've done a 150shot of nitrous on a 12:1 motor(which put out a tad over 300whp). I'm personally a fan of higher compression boosted setups. The only disadvantage is that you'll come closer to your octanes knock limit faster than you would with lower compression(meaning you can make more power on pump with lower compression). But having better spool time and off boost response is worth the trade off. Anything under 10:1, 400whp can be hit on pump gas.
Oh, I'm Josh's tuner/builder btw. In case you guys still haven't figured it out.
Last edited by CrzyTuning; 05-01-2010 at 12:35 AM.
After doing some research for a few hours, I've come up with the following combo
any forged B18A/B rod
JE Pistons #242879
83mm, 1.176"(29.87mm) compression height, -10.2cc dish
Using the following A20A specs I gathered online:
91mm stroke
83mm bore(with these pistons)
-10.2cc dish
212mm deck height
47.6cc head volume
.026" hg
137mm rod length
*deck height and head volume were taken from ww.3geez.com/forum/showpost.php?p=627497&postcount=37 (I left out a W because I can't post links yet, per site rules)
Compression would be right around 9.2:1, give or take .2 depending on how much has been milled/decked. Not only is it a good compression ratio, but the shorter compression height brings the piston closer into the bore which gives more p2v and p2h clearance. The piston still sticks out slightly, but not near as much as with a std 30mm compression height.
Last edited by CrzyTuning; 05-01-2010 at 01:42 AM.
I can confirm B18 rods are the same as A20 rods minus the wrist pin diameter. I had Crower make me some rods back in d day and all they needed to do is change the wrist pin diameter. Had a post of the rod info from Crower, but that's probably lost in some thread somewhere.
I agree with you on the compression. 10:1 here and off boost the car is very responsive.
I agree aswell.
Rendon you get the bay painted?
They are different, but not drastically. I don't see it being an issue with a stock cam. Not sure about a bigger cam, which is why I'm going to measure Josh's entire motor once he drops it off at my place.
From pictures alone, it seems like the rods are nearly the same length, the b18a rods being a few cunt hairs longer. This is a good thing. Longer rods means less side loading on the sleeves, which means you widen your window of maximum power. It also means you can rev higher, safer.
Where I see an issue is with the pistons. The compression height on the B18a piston seems to be quite a bit different. This causes the piston to stick out above the deck. This can be bad for a few reasons.
My biggest concern is piston to valve clearance, as well as piston to head clearance. I've only so far seen pictures of stock ls rods/pistons in an a20 and the valve pockets aren't in the correct place and can cause some damage with bigger cams. Usually though, forged pistons have larger/deeper valve pockets so it might not even be an issue.
Another issue is squish/quench area. If the piston sticks out too much, the squish area can become very minimal and it's not very safe at higher rpms. I like to have a minimum of .04" for steel rods and boosted applications.
If my calculations and measurements come out unsafe, I'll look into another piston option(from different motors). Kinda like vitaras in D series, or DSM pistons in F22's.
As for compression, its a non issue with a competent tuner. I've done a 150shot of nitrous on a 12:1 motor(which put out a tad over 300whp). I'm personally a fan of higher compression boosted setups. The only disadvantage is that you'll come closer to your octanes knock limit faster than you would with lower compression(meaning you can make more power on pump with lower compression). But having better spool time and off boost response is worth the trade off. Anything under 10:1, 400whp can be hit on pump gas.
Oh, I'm Josh's tuner/builder btw. In case you guys still haven't figured it out.O snaps its joser. Nay i got lazy. I just cleaned up some of the engine bay. took some shit out and relayed some of the wire. Nothing out of the blue.
So what is needed is a custom wrist pin. umm instresting
200+ ALL MOTOR LS VTEC
hmmm.. very interesting... i like this info here...
No, you don't need a custom wrist pin. It's the location of the wrist pin on the piston(called compression height) that makes the difference. I think that's what you're getting at anyways. That piston is the closest one I found that works the best. The next best thing would be to go with a custom piston. That would cost upwards of $100 extra depending on what other features you get on your pistons. The next closest piston is from the CA18's or whatever they are(nissan motor). They have something like a 29.9x compression height.
Last edited by CrzyTuning; 05-02-2010 at 12:38 AM.
Well THE SAGA CONTIUNES LOL....gonna try to fire my baby up sometime in a week. Looking at some vids i mad...GOD I miss the 2,3 gear rubber
200+ ALL MOTOR LS VTEC
hi LOL.....
200+ ALL MOTOR LS VTEC
Posting Permissions
Reply With Quote
Bookmarks