my fuel pumps fine i was wanting to know when the main fuel relay goes out does it keep the car from firing up? i ran a power wire to the fuel pump to get it sucking some fuel up to the engine so ive pretty much narrowed it down to that
my fuel pumps fine i was wanting to know when the main fuel relay goes out does it keep the car from firing up? i ran a power wire to the fuel pump to get it sucking some fuel up to the engine so ive pretty much narrowed it down to that
yeah, you could just resolder it back together and it should work good again
yeah I had to resolder the connections inside main relay as well it had an intermittent starting problem works great now.
how much for a new main relay?
wow
just fix it or $60 new. resoldering it fixed every one i've tried it on
heres the new one
CRAZY
"Weight is relative to power like time is relative to speed"
DON'T BUY IT, ITS SUPER EASY TO FIX YOURSELF. I've been having problems with my 89 lxi not starting and it was a poorly soldered connection on the back of the relay. Pull your relay out of the shell and check for a crack in the solder, it'll look like a ring. Thats what might be your problem. There is a procedure to check your relay if it's faulty. My haynes manual shows you step by step how to test it. you're better of saving yourself 60 dollars, and just buy the book and a soldering gun and fixing it yourself.
Re-soldering didn't fix mine. I had to buy new.![]()
Dr_Snooz
"I like to take hammers, and just break stuff, just break stuff." - Beavis
1989 Honda Accord LX-i Coupe, 240k miles, MT swap, rear disc swap
Shop manual downloads available here: CLICK TO VIEW
Tuner cleaner worked in mine for a good while, but I ordered a new one, anyway (only about $40) for peace of mind. I have my doubts that resoldering fixes anything that's broken. The physical act of taking it apart and messing with it probably frees up a sticking mechanism for a while. I mean, why would this single electronic item amongst many suffer from a multitude of cracked solder joints? I think it's a mechanical issue.
So, get a can of tuner cleaner at Fry's, or your local Radio Shack. Take the cover off the relay and douse it. I'll bet money that works and last longer than resoldering.
Last edited by DBMaster; 11-04-2008 at 11:02 PM.
i got one at the junk yard today ford 20 bucks so im gonna try it in the morning and see if thats what the problem is
in my case it was a single connection that was lost and needed to be soldered. because of that, my fuel pump was constantly cutting out f-ing with the ability of the car to stay running. taking the case off of the relay does nothing. take it for what it's worth, but atleast give it a look.
It wasn't fun for me to get that relay out, and the new one back in, either. This gave me an excuse to buy a nice Husky tool for $29.95, which is a 3/8 ratchet wrench with a twisting handle that you crank to move the socket drive. In my case, I had trouble getting my regular ratchet to click, because the change drawer opening was too small. Although I had finished the job before buying the tool, it's comforting knowing that it's there, waiting. You can never have too many tools.
http://www.huskytools.com/Product.as...c2&cid=1051579
If you want to read about my travails with the main relay, try message #1 in this thread:
https://www.3geez.com/forum/showthrea...ght=main+relay
As far as fixing the solder's micro-cracks, so many people have done it here that it seems like an ok solution. In my opinion, though, the hassle involved in replacing the relay is so large, that I'd rather pony up for a new one, and know that I'm good for another 10 years. If you want to resolder, check out this page:
http://techauto.tripod.com/mainrelay.htm
There is another relay that tends to go south on our cars, the one in the driver's door that controls the auto window drop. That one is easy to get to, and if it fails it isn't the end of the world. Although I also bought a new one from Honda when mine did go south, I could more easily agree that a swap from the JY is a fine solution there.
Last edited by w261w261; 11-05-2008 at 09:03 AM.
so could that be the reason my window isn't going down?? hmm. I should take the door apart and play around with that relay. I can hear the relay click when I push the switch down, the window just doesn't respond. I assumed it was the motor, in that case i've heard replacing the motor is a pain in the ass.
ok so i hooked it up and nothing still!!!! i check for spark its getting it. and i checked the fuel its getting it to the fuel rail. comes to find out one of my friends soaked the injectors in rubbing alcohol.im ready to kill him. i pulled them out still attached to the fuel rail and turned it over a couple of times and no fuel is coming out.so i guess the injectors are toast?
anyone got a set of 4 for a 89 lxi they want to sell cheap?
I don't know if you have a noid light, but make sure the ECU is pulsing the injectors before you rule them out.
.
when i turn the key on?
heres what happened. i took the intake mani off to get to the freeze plugs in the back. i replaced them along with all the intake mani gaskets. i hooked everything back up and tryed to start it. i wasent getting any fuel to the fuel filter. so i ran a hot wire to the fuel pump to get it to have power, so now its getting fuel to the fuel rail. its getting spark. i pulled the plugs out and didnt smell any fuel. i bought a new main fuel relay and its still not starting. so i the injectors out keeping them hooked into the fuel rail and turned it over acouple of times. no gas came out.so thats where im at now on it. if you can help me think of something that maybe wrong with it let me know. just want to get it up and running again. its been about a month and a half without it. i wanna drive it lol![]()
Double check your manifold installation. I suspect you forgot to re-connect a sensor like the MAP sensor or atmospheric pressure sensor. Possibly a vacuum hose to the fuel pressure regulator. Just look over everything carefully.
Dr_Snooz
"I like to take hammers, and just break stuff, just break stuff." - Beavis
1989 Honda Accord LX-i Coupe, 240k miles, MT swap, rear disc swap
Shop manual downloads available here: CLICK TO VIEW
yeah i was thinkin it could just bee that but not sure so im gonna check it over really well
There is a ground wire that is goes with the fuel rail I think that if it is off the injectors will not pulse correctly. I read it here I dont have first hand knowledge of it.
wp
1988 Lxi owner since August 1995
336k miles running strong!
Now running E85.
Oldblueaccord <<< MY YOUTUBE PAGE!
i dont think theres a ground that goes to the fuel rail
Please check your resistor box plug and maker sure its plugged in, i remember swearing for a good hour to find it half plugged in and it didnt let the car start.
the earth wire will be anywhere on the right hand side of the engine bay (not the TB end) if its not there anywhere you may need to follow your wires that come out of your engine loom it might have came undone
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