Black Box and The HOSES

[Boltgunner]

Ok, so I started ages ago to convert the 84 to a 2 BBL carb with a home-made adapter. Yank all of the hoses and the black box.

I need to know if I can yank the hoses and the box and keep using the oem 3 BBL carb for a while, as the car has to start 5 days a week and take me to work without fail. I can't tear her all apart (haven't finished the adapter), just want to ditch the vacuum crap so she will idle when hot and maybe get a leaner mix (and a couple of MPG better). Pros, cons, suggestions, what to and NOT to take off now? I KNOW I have to connect the vac to the distributor (not sure which port). Thanks!

[2ndGenGuy]

Good question. You may be the first to embark on this journey. I know that people have de-vacuumed the CVCC dual-carb Preludes on PreludePower.com. I imagine that this would be similar to do. So it should be do-able.

I guess the steps that people usually take are to grab a manual, then disconnect one system at a time, and drive the car around a bit. Not just disconnect, then start it and see if it runs, but actually start from a cold cycle all the way until it's warm. As you may not notice the effects if the system only works when the car is running in certain conditions. You'll probably learn a lot about how the damn thing works though.

Maybe someone else here will chime in and have some ideas. But I'm pretty sure it can be done. I'd love to try it out one day myself with a junker car.

[Ichiban]

When I did it on my 83, I basically ditched everything and capped it off. One line went to the EVAP canister from ported vacuum, and the other to the distributer. The rest of the crap went in the garbage. I also did a manual choke conversion at the same time.

[Boltgunner]

Well, I went a little crazy today, and ripped it all out. Left enough vacuum hookups for the distributor and the vac tank to pull the heater and diverter doors where they have to go. Capped the rest.

First thing I found after trying to start up the car was that the secondary barrel was filling up with raw gas. Not good. I tried to replumb the choke system, then the power valve system, but the motor was drowning. I forget now what I tried next. This is NOT GOOD - the car is my only and my daily driver.

I ended up caving in and ordering a Redline K727 kit, like Jon has on his car. I did not want to spend the dough, but it has to be done - the car has to run when the sun shines.

Jon, if you read this, jump in with any tips and suggestions I need to know about this kit, since you have done it. I gotta shit 'n git...

[t-bone]

How did this turn out? Anyone? I was thinking of doing the same thing to my 83 hatch

[2ndGenGuy]

If you order the kit, skip the 32/36 and get a Weber 38 with it instead. It will open up your little engine more than you can imagine.

[t-bone]

Any suggestions on where to order. I just rebuilt the stocker and am not too happy with the results. I am going to tear off the smog garbage and see where I end up. It has a decent amount of power but is so inconsistent and hard to tune. Anyway I want that darn weber but I don't know if I can justify the money yet. I bought the car for 300 so spending almost 400 on a carb is hard to swallow. I have a mustang I am supposed to be modding haha

[2ndGenGuy]

Carbsunlimited.com or piercemanfolds.com. I usually order from carbs unlimited because they're bout an hour away from me and shipping takes a day. If you are adventureous, you can just buy the adapter plate for $50-60 and then go scavenging for a Holley 5200 carb somewhere! They are pretty cheap and plentiful. I think a totally rebuilt one can be picked up for $100... Don't expect a huge performance increase as it's still just a 32/36. Stock carb is 32/34...

[Ichiban]

First thing I found after trying to start up the car was that the secondary barrel was filling up with raw gas. Not good. I tried to replumb the choke system, then the power valve system, but the motor was drowning. I forget now what I tried next. This is NOT GOOD - the car is my only and my daily driver.

I ended up caving in and ordering a Redline K727 kit, like Jon has on his car. I did not want to spend the dough, but it has to be done - the car has to run when the sun shines.

Jon, if you read this, jump in with any tips and suggestions I need to know about this kit, since you have done it. I gotta shit 'n git...

My car erratically does this routine as well, usually on hot days and after sitting. I've got the 2bbl manual choke, but most of the original design is probably the same. Only thing I can think of is that the float is somehow fucked up, that it doesn't want to float in warm gas (which has lower density and provides less buoyancy than cold gas) I've tried beating the carb to get it unstuck, and it usually strands me at a red light somewhere busy. I've gotten used to pulling the fuel pump fuse to cut the gas in order to get it running again, then hold it floored, stuff the fuse back in and run it above 4K to keep it alive.

Anyways, got that Weber yet? I've heard that if you approach tuning these carbs the right way you can have a lot of fun dicking with them.

Good luck

[t-bone]

Carbsunlimited.com or piercemanfolds.com. I usually order from carbs unlimited because they're bout an hour away from me and shipping takes a day. If you are adventureous, you can just buy the adapter plate for $50-60 and then go scavenging for a Holley 5200 carb somewhere! They are pretty cheap and plentiful. I think a totally rebuilt one can be picked up for $100... Don't expect a huge performance increase as it's still just a 32/36. Stock carb is 32/34...

Well I ripped out everything and got the car running fairly well. No choke, no black box, no EGR, all the vacuum lines are gone! Anyway I want to get a Weber 38 kit. What would be the appropriate kit for my CVCC 83 hatch?

[Rollz87civic]

I have done what you speak of with the stock carb.I gained 3 more mpg and about 6 more LB of vacum. but i also made my manual secondary not vac secondary

[Lil Mike]

My car erratically does this routine as well, usually on hot days and after sitting. I've got the 2bbl manual choke, but most of the original design is probably the same. Only thing I can think of is that the float is somehow fucked up, that it doesn't want to float in warm gas (which has lower density and provides less buoyancy than cold gas) I've tried beating the carb to get it unstuck, and it usually strands me at a red light somewhere busy. I've gotten used to pulling the fuel pump fuse to cut the gas in order to get it running again, then hold it floored, stuff the fuse back in and run it above 4K to keep it alive.

Anyways, got that Weber yet? I've heard that if you approach tuning these carbs the right way you can have a lot of fun dicking with them.

Good luck

my car does this too once in a while i have the 2bbl and the manifold pools with gas. ive gotten stuck once before but after that i can tell when its happening and i just RIP it, and after a while it stops.

[Ichiban]

I've actually gotten good at yarding the fuel pump fuse at stoplights, then boarding the fucker till it clears.

[1GEN]

I've actually gotten good at yarding the fuel pump fuse at stoplights, then boarding the fucker till it clears.

That's gotta be great to see the cloud of doom coming out the back.