Aftermarket Control Arms

[DBMaster]

I just replaced my front UCA's yesterday. I bought a pair with bushing kits on eBay for $85. Based upon what the ones I replaced were like I don't expect the new ones to last too long. The two I had were replaced by my mechanic three and five years ago. The three year old one had play in the ball joint and the five year old one had a BAD ball joint. So, if you want them to last you've got to pony up the bucks for Honda OEM. I was thinking maybe Moog, or some other good brand. Those cost nearly as much as the Honda parts. Since I am unemployed I am going cheap now and I'll go better in 3-4 years when these wear out. I tried drilling into the ball joint on one of my rear UCA's that I replaced last month, but it seemed like there wqas not enough of a gap for any grease to get in there so I just plugged the hole and put the arm back on.

I wonder what is so different about Honda ball joints that allows them to last three times longer than the aftermarket parts.

[LX-incredible]

90% of moog's stuff like the is actually manufactured by three five in japan. Same parts, usually for 1/3 less. Use new moog/three five/honda bushings with the oem sleeve, don't screw around with the chinese kits. Check out rockauto, every now and then they have closeouts on moog and other quality parts.

[DBMaster]

I am kicking myself now, but I already installed everything. I figure they won't last any longer than the stuff my mechanic used. I'm a little disappointed there because he has been a Honda mechanic since 1978 and says the parts he gets "from California" are of good quality. So, in this case if the stuff I put on lasts even three years I won't complain and then go with Moog only next time. I saved my original parts (sleeves, bolts, caps, etc.) to use with the next set of arms and bushings.

I also replaced my master cylinder this week. I have changed my brake fluid every 30K miles, just like the book says, and it never looks dirty. I have used DOT 4 since about the second or third change. My M/C's go out every 90-100K miles like clockwork. The signal is that when it gets above 80 or so outside and the engine compartment gets hot the pedal goes to the floor and you can feel that you've lost half your brake system. Once you put in some miles on the highway or the sun goes down the brakes go back to normal. It started doing it right after a fluid change on Saturday. My last one was brand new aftermarket and it lasted just as long as the first two from Honda. Unfortunately, the store where I bought it was out of business so I couldn't collect on the lifetime warranty. So, I got a new lifetime warranted unit at O'Reilly's. I am pretty sure they will be in business 5-7 years from now when I need the next one.

The guy at O'Reilly's recommended that I change out the fluid in the M/C more often, like once a year. It's easy enough to do with my vacuum brake bleeder, but I wonder if it will make any difference.

[Dr_Snooz]

I've had pretty consistently good luck with Napa. You might consider them next time you need parts. You shouldn't be losing master cylinders like that.

[DBMaster]

Been that way all its life and I am the only owner. I wonder if DOT 4 eats the piston seals faster. Fresh brake fluid actually PRESERVES rubber, though. I have never had to rebuild cylinders/calipers or even replace any of the brake hoses.

I have 294,000 miles on it.

[LX-incredible]

Are you buying them with the reservoir? Excessive pedal travel and moisture are what usually takes them out. Sometimes leaking or misadjusted rears may seem like the master, fooled me several times.

[Oldblueaccord]

DOT 4 is ? If it is Silicone then our MC must not have compatible seals.

As far as the UCA did you get the set with the replaceable ball joints? You could replace them every 3 years just for piece of mind since. Thats actually called predictive maintenance.


wp

[DBMaster]

DOT 4 is not silicone. It is basically the same glycol base as DOT 3 but it's formulated for higher temperatures. It does seem to take longer to darken. It's funny that manufacturers call their DOT 4 stuff "synthetic." That's what started me using it in the first place. ALL brake fluid is synthesized and can thus be called synthetic if you want to get technical.

As far as the UCA's go the ones I put on might have removable ball joints, but what's the point? The only special tool I needed to replace the UCA's was a pitman arm puller. Next time around I will just go with Moog and probably won't worry about them again for a long time. I have noticed a substantially improved ride with a lot less steering wheel vibration. I had started thinking my tires were out of balance, but all it was was the play in the upper ball joints.

[DBMaster]

Are you buying them with the reservoir? Excessive pedal travel and moisture are what usually takes them out. Sometimes leaking or misadjusted rears may seem like the master, fooled me several times.

The new units are complete with reservoir. I actually had to collect on the warranty for the last one because the fluid level switch in the cap went bad and was telling me I was low on fluid when I wasn't. The store ordered a new one and we traded caps. My rear brakes have been great for years since last time I bought brand new shoes from Majestic and hardware kits from NAPA. Since this is M/C number four on the car I know exactly what it feels like when it is going bad. The first one was actually replaced at about 90K miles by the Honda dealer while the car was still under extended warranty.

You know what's funny? It might even be that changing the brake fluid religiously like you're supposed to do wears out the seals in the M/C. Maybe it's that way I use my brakes.