My EF & AERODECK

[apache07x]

ThX Apache07x.

I guess for our Accord the diameter is bigger. Maybe 20.5 mm. Unfortunately I can't measure it as I'm 200 km axay from my geez
Indeed, look under:



source: Lings Honda Parts | Genuine Honda Parts | Honda Cars | Honda Motorcycles | Honda Power Products | Lings Honda

Also, maybe anyone know where to find sidelights??

Well there's this http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ptp-8-1101

and if you go to prothane.com maybe you can find one that is the 20.5 mm that fits something besides our cars.

If you look through this thread Greg has some sidelights for sale in it

https://www.3geez.com/forum/classic-a...oupe-misc.html

[Ricarlos]

ThX Apache07x for everything. MP sent for sidelights but meanwhile I have find a new plan in France to get them quickly.
About the sway bar bushing, I don't know if I want to go prothane.

http://moog-suspension-parts.com/pro...od=MOOG-K90395

[apache07x]

ThX Apache07x for everything. MP sent for sidelights but meanwhile I have find a new plan in France to get them quickly.
About the sway bar bushing, I don't know if I want to go prothane.

http://moog-suspension-parts.com/pro...od=MOOG-K90395

Moog makes good parts too. That's not a bad choice and cheaper lol

[Ricarlos]

Some goods news:

A nice pic:



Before/during & after:







From an exernal point of view:




It smells good!!

I still have many little stuff to do, I'll keep the thread updated!

Ps: How to edit the main title of the thread?? (EF & aero?)

[Ricarlos]

Well, it is back!

After a 1500 km just after the technical check up (and after 4 years without using this car!), I diagnose many things to be changed to enjoy the aero:
- Braking vibrations above 80 km / h
- No more power steering

And the feedback after this return on roads:
The aero in itself, its over, its least:
Most :

Honda: It's stupid to say but it is hyper reliable. Let me explain: it gives an engine that has not been run for four years in a case that has not been driven for 4 years, all carefully. Result: everything works (wipers, probes, radio etc ...). No caliper seized, not too strange noise and a engine that has its wealth.

Agreement : the comfort of a sedan. Enjoyment to enjoy a luxury car for the time. It means:! TO, retro electric saw gasoline (not on ED for example), good patterns closing three doors on the TDB, 60 liter tank is a range of 750 km ...

Aerodeck : volume, rarity, retractable headlights, reasonable consumption (8L/100km), which appears to decrease with time and "perceived space" (tailgate and large glazed surface).

A20A4: I only knowned the 16s (Scénic II & Honda Civic 16i16s. I really like the discovery of the 12s . It has much less to play the gear lever, the sound is really super nice, the couple is not bad at all.

Technical Summary:
A20A4: 89 kilowatts 123 hp @ 5500 rpm & 165 Nm @ 4000 rpm
D16A9: 129 hp 94.8 kW @ 6800 rpm & 143 Nm @ 5700 rpm

It's funny but I think it is more in line with my early thirties against 25 years with ED What is certain is that I am delighted. Yes, I miss a little madness of 7000 rpm, I pushed up to 6000 rpm, it goes but there is not much interest.

Side transmission , my exedy clutch st-1 is strengthened absolutely perfect This is a mod that I recommend to all my box do crunches.. not, it is perfect. Side suspension , the combo Tokico & HR-4 is cool. amortos I think we need to "do" a little. I changed almost all the joints, but it is me I think some lack SB to be really good. I have not wanted to attack because of his severe vibration when braking, it gives not want side management , I am looking forward to the DA but it is urgent to parallelism due to lowering and change of steering knuckles (I counted the number of turns but it's still rough and the lowering must do something.

Less : Well yes because you have to remain objective!
Sensation : driving an aircraft carrier The handling will come and we can play with grandma.
Not hyper practical but good (especially the size of the box), it's a shooting brake, should not expect better!



I've corrected what grieved me after my first outing:
- Front discs with ferrodo
- Front Brake pad with ferrodo
- Grease slides
- 4 Brake hoses Bridgestone Avia
- Replacement SB OEM Honda by MOGG which are much more rigid and do much better their work (Diameter 21: MOOG-K90395 Universal Sway Bar Frame Bushings - 20mm Made By MOOG. Nevertheless thank you very much Apache07x for your help)
- Replacement of rack and pinion steering
- Changed my trigger probe of fan
- I started to change the engine ground wire.


Now almost everything works. I'm quiet happy to made all this by myself, knowing that 5 years ago I was unable to change the oil myself!

There are still things to do, the first one will be to change my rims as the 2 at the back are dead... (from the previous "owner")

I hope you apreciate my work, if you do, please share!

[Dr_Snooz]

Car looks good! I didn't realize that you drive on the "right" side of the road in France.

[2ndGenGuy]

Pretty much only England, Japan and Australia drive on the wrong side of the road. The rest of the world is like us.

I kinda forgot that the Aerodeck is a shooting brake. I mean I don't think I'd consider the EF hatches to be one, but this definitely is. It's one sick car! And great job on all the hard work you are doing!

[Ricarlos]

Thank you 2ndGenGuy.
Yep, indeed, I have choose this car as it is one of the only "rare" shooting brake. It is really a nice car.
Work have been hard but I thing the hardest part is now behind

Dr_Snooz I don't know were you come from or if you often travel... but most countries are left handed drive!!

[Ricarlos]

As you can see, I have a problem with my dashboard / instrument panel as it is not enlightened.
If you have any ideas, please teel me:



Well, here are some news with pics and things I have to do later (still!):

Radiator + calorstat
Lighting tdb
Cuicui tdb
Lead water outlets
Safe (plywood)
Inner frames has reattach (arrears plastic driver's door)
Back beach refeutrer
Cylinders Safety
Back lights to seal
Admission to improve
Wheels and Tires
Lighting (lights) + ab arr
antenna
body

HELP: do you guys where may I find a thread about intake?? I must work on it... Or even an EBAY link to find a CAI for A20A4???
ThX!

[Dr_Snooz]

Dr_Snooz I don't know were you come from or if you often travel... but most countries are left handed drive!!

I'll be honest. I abhor travel. I always come home exhausted, sick, sleep-deprived and cranky. It takes several months before I get my health sorted out again and all my sprinklers have exploded in my absence. I can learn more about a place from reading a book or watching a documentary. Other photographers can take prettier pictures and someone else can endure the TSA cavity search with more grace than I. I'm very much a home-body.

Having said that, traveling to Haiti to assist with the earthquake cleanup was well worth all the inconvenience. I hate travel, but I love humanitarian projects.

Your car is looking good. For the dash lights, I'd say look for a bad fuse. It's also possible that your dimmer control is malfunctioning.

[carotman]

C,eck the fuses for the interior light!

I love those french gauges. I want some!!!!

[Ricarlos]

Hey guys!
Dr-Snooz, your vision of travel is both strange and true!! Maybe your experience in Haiti was decisive...

Carotman, about the dash lights, I guess it's a "bad" fuse. But there is no fuse in the main fuse box for dash.
But it seems to be under the steering wheel:

So I'm looking for:
- Brake light circuit failure sensor
- Dashlight Brightness control unit
- Chime
- Ignition key light timer
- Left & right brake light sensor

Also, a french guy experienced a strange breakdown with it's accord (and it might be the same for me):
as the sensor of it reverse gear was going mad, it blew the fuses of the dashboard!!!

Have you ever hear anything like this on 3G????

Last, but not least, I need to upgrade the air intake which is very weak. A bolt on system would be perfect, even an how to.
Can anyone help me to find a link about this??

Like this one wich seems great: 1989 Honda Accord - YouTube
at 2'16
Like an AEM one? With a long arm one?

[HLW]

As shown in the illustration you included, the Dashlight Brightness control unit, Chime, and Ignition key light timer are mounted to the lower dash panel. To get to them remove the 4 screws holding the lower dash panel under the steering column and it will drop down exposing the Dashlight Brightness control unit, Chime, and Ignition key light timer.

To the left of the lower dash panel is a storage box, on it is a knob that will indicate Fuse, turn the knob and the entire storage box will swing down and can be removed.

With the lower dash panel removed, to the right of the accelerator pedal, behind the radio you will see a control box, That should be the brake light circuit failure sensor if I'm not mistaken.

The left and right brake light failure sensors are by the left and right brake lights behind the access panel behind the brake lights. Open the hatch and look on the inside where the brake lights are, there will be an access panel with a spot to put your finger under to pull the panel off. Behind the panel is the brake lights and the brake light failure sensor. There is one for each side. Of course this is base on how it is on the sedan, so the areodeck may be a little different.

The back side of the box should have a label showing the fuses in the under dash fuse box, The opening in the dash from removing that storage box will expose the under dash fuse box.

The 10A fuse in the #2 spot should be fuse for the headlight warning, dash illumination, gauges and the backup light. If putting the trans in reverse blows the fuse, there may be a short to ground between the backup switch in the trans and the backup light. Remove the backup light bulbs and check for a short from the connection in the bottom of the bulb sockets to the side of the sockets. The sides are connected to ground. If there is a short, that will blow your #2 fuse when the trans is in reverse.Then you need to trace the wires to find the short so you can fix it.

[Ricarlos]

HLW, well, woaah! ThX
I'm really weak in electrical and I guess your post will help

Lets made 6 paragraphs with your answer. I'm all right with most of them.

For the #4, it seems to be coming somewhere here as when I touch the back of the back lights, the light on my dashboard (the only one ) sometimes turn off.
For the #5, which box are you talking about?
For the #6, which one is #2 spot?

[HLW]

For the #4, it seems to be coming somewhere here as when I touch the back of the back lights, the light on my dashboard (the only one ) sometimes turn off.

That may be a bad connection at the bulbs, I had some rear.brake bulbs that worked but they were in the sockets long enough for the solder contacts to have been reshaped by the contacts in the socket to where they did not have a good connection.

For the #5, which box are you talking about?

Sorry about that, I did not write the paragraphs in order but tried to order them to be easier to follow. The box is the storage box next to the lower dash panel that I also referred to in the second paragraph.

For the #6, which one is #2 spot?

That is the #2 fuse in the under-dash fuse box. The label on the back of the storage box to the left of the lower dash panel shows you the fuse locations (which spot on the fuse box is which number fuse) and what amperage fuse belongs in each spot.

[usj101]

Anymore updates?