Nice job.
The good thing is the engine doesn't look out of place in the bay at all.
Although I'd like upgraded power in my '82 this is way beyond anything I could envisage doing. I work in the right place though should I want to attempt it.
Nice job.
The good thing is the engine doesn't look out of place in the bay at all.
Although I'd like upgraded power in my '82 this is way beyond anything I could envisage doing. I work in the right place though should I want to attempt it.
Good to hear you identified your carbs, now tune themand dyno it ha
I think you could do it. I'm a total retard and I did it.Originally Posted by denhonda
You might have a hard time locating the SEi driveshafts though.
I doubt my mechanical abilities. I was mega impressed that I single-handedly removed the eng & box from that '83 I had though - that really stretched my confidence levels.I think you could do it. I'm a total retard and I did it.
Whats the difference with the SEi shafts?
Amazing John. Just amazing.
Dr_Snooz
"I like to take hammers, and just break stuff, just break stuff." - Beavis
1989 Honda Accord LX-i Coupe, 240k miles, MT swap, rear disc swap
Shop manual downloads available here: CLICK TO VIEW
Thanks!
swweeettt!!!!!!
Get some T-bolt clamps, dont want those falling apart on a hard shift/launch
Wow talk about short runners haha. Nice work so far!
The A20 downpipe (the 4-2-1 model) fits the B20A just fine, all you need to do is notch the two outer bolt holes because the spacing on these are wider on the B20A.
What are your plans regarding the flipped alternator bracket on the front of the engine?
Will they conform to the oval shape of the runners on the A20 manifold? The hose clamps are pretty damn tight, the carbs don't even move a tiny bit on the manifold. Like a solid mount!swweeettt!!!!!!
Get some T-bolt clamps, dont want those falling apart on a hard shift/launch
I was looking at getting silicone couplers and good clamps, so if you think the t-clamps will work on that oval shape, I will do it up. Otherwise, hoseclamps on the manifold, and t-clamps on the carbs.
my car is fat, hatches are lean and mean
2ndGG you are going to need traction aid, cuz my car will roast the tires a long way even with an auto, not even slamming it in gear just mashing the gas in D4 like heap big muscle car
Time to study up on the cams, this motor needs something in that area. It is not a gold top so... meh
Traction aids will come down the road for sure! I'm looking forward to it's tire fryer ability. For now. Probably will do something with the engine mounts, then get the midshaft to work, then down the road some sort of limited slip goodness.
I'm looking forward to trying some cams out as well. I would love to get something REALLY lumpy, so the car has that pissed off struggle to idle, but really wakes up at 5000RPM. I don't know if that's possible to cam it that much and not move the powerband up past the engine's rev-limit.
I need to mill out the holes on the A20A3 downpipe? Good to know, I have a variety of milling machines to choose from!
With the flipped alternator bracket, I want to move the alternator to the front lower area of the engine. The 2.5g Accords had a slightly wider bay, and the LH framerail was clearanced to allow for the backside mounted alternator. My '82 engine bay has none of these provisions, and originally mounted the alternator to the front of the engine anyways.
ICHIBAN!
"Now, even more better!"
mike your box all done yet??
and john you might even be happy with the stock cams, they are pretty grunty motors.
if your not happy you may aswell build a b20 from scratch, balance it so it can rev to 9k rpm and have some lumpy as cams to make it scream from 4500rpm to 8k
Last edited by AccordB20A; 04-30-2009 at 07:26 PM.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=whufPDqlVp8
Just a little teaser. The manifold is only held on by 3 bolts, and there's no advance on the ignition. I'm surprised it started at all. Oh and I forgot to bolt on the downpipe to the manifold, I discovered. Woopsie.
no workign damnit
200+ ALL MOTOR LS VTEC
hahaha, some of the cylinders aren't firing (or getting fuel)
Not too bad for a 1st start.
http://pages.videotron.com/omus
3geez member since July 12 2000
I need these parts!
https://www.3geez.com/forum/showthread.php?t=67742
fuck yeah man!
1988 Honda Accord LX-i Coupe 123k miles.
HAHA...thats awesome bro...fuck ya. It was funny seems like you where acting like a kid that was excited LOL...nice bro...cant wait for a ride
200+ ALL MOTOR LS VTEC
haha smile much?????
Oh and lol love the push button start thing you have it made me lol
haha well theres that struggle to idle thing you wanted. real good work there!
^^ lol hahaha never thought about that, carbs doing what they do best
Hahahah
Nice work John. Can't wait to hear it running (perfectly).
1988 Honda Accord LX-i Coupe 123k miles.
they should be able to work..Will they conform to the oval shape of the runners on the A20 manifold? The hose clamps are pretty damn tight, the carbs don't even move a tiny bit on the manifold. Like a solid mount!
I was looking at getting silicone couplers and good clamps, so if you think the t-clamps will work on that oval shape, I will do it up. Otherwise, hoseclamps on the manifold, and t-clamps on the carbs.
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