You and me both. Still won't be home for another week at least! :-o
You and me both. Still won't be home for another week at least! :-o
2ndGG you can pull the oil pan while it is out, that way you can inspect the cyl condition and oil sump without any major disassembly. I made a comment somewhere about taking the thermostat hsg off and tell me what you see. What I meant by that is when I took mine off it was like they used salt water for coolant in Japan. That prompted me to do the water pump as well, but it was not as bad, still there is a lot of corrosion in these B20s sometimes. Look at some other's motors here , around the coolant ports with the head off you see red orange even after the engines have been run a while with new coolant.Originally Posted by 2ndGenGuy
I got a handy tool at work now that I can use, it is a video camera on a stick, with a 3inch screen. It can be used to inspect cyl, coolant ports, hell Im even going to try to use it under my carb while it is running. Shoot it in thru the big vaccum port in the back, to see what kind of puddling is going on.
http://www.toolsforless.com/product/...pection_Camera
Last edited by 2oodoor; 12-06-2008 at 03:05 AM.
Yes and i really think that he should check that water pump as well. Its a lot easier to replace the parts while its out of the car
Hmmm... it's sort of a pain in the ass to pull parts off of the engine while it's on a hoist. I suppose I could bolt it to my engine stand and do the work. I was planning on pulling it back out anyways and resealing the whole thing after I get it fitted and probably blasting and painting it... I guess I'll see how things go.
don't get why but whatever makes you enjoy it most!!
I do know if you plan on taking the downpipe off anytime, do it with the engine out. LOL I just about had to remove the engine to get that sucka off, finally had it jacked up with front n side mounts off, trans crossmember out, PS pump off, just to sawsall the thing so I didnt have to remove the front crossmember or the whole engine!
use two chains on the hoist, one to stabilize and keep from twisting , or strap of some kind to the nearest heavy thing like a table bolted to the ground.. lol
Last edited by 2oodoor; 12-06-2008 at 05:04 PM.
Bah I dunno!!! LOL! You're right, I'll at least pull the pan and make sure the oil screen is clear, and I'll figure out what water pump I can use on this block. That stuff won't take that long anyways. There's going to be plenty of custom fitting, like maybe PS lines and AC lines... And exhaust... And fuel lines... I might as well get the easy stuff out of the way first!
Where is you PS pump? my line transfered right over but I did have to use the jdm pump, never even moved the lines.Bah I dunno!!! LOL! You're right, I'll at least pull the pan and make sure the oil screen is clear, and I'll figure out what water pump I can use on this block. That stuff won't take that long anyways. There's going to be plenty of custom fitting, like maybe PS lines and AC lines... And exhaust... And fuel lines... I might as well get the easy stuff out of the way first!
Exhaust, should be close to the same as yours past the downpipe. I could have used what was there I could not get my downpipe off to work on plumbing it out without cutting my A20 DC parts up which I want to use on the other car.
fuel lines, same for carbed.... EFI you have your work cut out for you.
Axles may be something you will school us on, 2nd gen axles are not interchangeable with 3rd Gen are they? so you wont be able to use the RT side on the left for the interemediate? Maybe 2nd gen lude woudl work...
Got this one all figured out.
ICHIBAN!
"Now, even more better!"
I have a brand new water pump for sale for the B20A for $35 shipped. Its listed in the trading post section. I know mine was really rusted out when I had my B20A out lolBah I dunno!!! LOL! You're right, I'll at least pull the pan and make sure the oil screen is clear, and I'll figure out what water pump I can use on this block. That stuff won't take that long anyways. There's going to be plenty of custom fitting, like maybe PS lines and AC lines... And exhaust... And fuel lines... I might as well get the easy stuff out of the way first!
i think turks engine should be okay with just a water pump its mikes motor thats got the oil leaks lol
Limited time this weekend. But still managed to make it to the wreckers for a quick peek around...
What do we have here? Oh a grey 2g sedan. Looks pretty beat...
Remote Fuel Door...?
Leather Interior...? Is this what I think it is?
Yeah bitches! An SE-i! Mine for the pillaging!
Most important thing I need is those hubs and axles to make that B20A fit in... SNIPE!!
Oh yes, all mine. Took the super hard to find rear mudflaps. They're bent but in good shape. I have them flattening out right now. I think they'll be allright.
Next weekend, I've gotta go back for the rear control arms (for the rear swaybar) and I'm probably going to take the power mirrors and see if I can't fix up the driver's side mirror. Then I'll probably snag that remote fuel door, and the fuel pump. Suppose the tank might be useful, but I think it would be easier to just run a return into mine.
Then I gotta get the B20As actually out of the box and get Mike's up to him, and drop mine in so I can get it out of the way.
great hunting!!! nice kill
Oh yeah
You should just get the whole car.
You could install an EFI B20A in your car with the SE-i EFI system.
You could grab the fuel pump with lines and all the dash wire harness + engine harness.
This would make things very easy for the B20A swap.
http://pages.videotron.com/omus
3geez member since July 12 2000
I need these parts!
https://www.3geez.com/forum/showthread.php?t=67742
Isn't the B20A distributor an electronic advance? I'm pretty sure the ES3 is vacuum advance. So wouldn't that require a bunch of wiring anyways? I've already got the B20A harness and ECU, and it's been chopped down already so I shouldn't have to wire much.
I was thinking about that though. Taking the tank and all that. But then I have another tank to dispose of. The tanks are basically the same, still an inline pump. I can just run a return line into my tank easily enough. I'll take a closer look at that car when I'm at the yard this Saturday...
You have 3 wires to add
1 for the igniter and 2 for the crank sensor. That's it!
Using the whole SE-i harness would really help to simplify troubleshooting in the future. You would have stock parts to diagnose and all the wire routing would be like OEM.
I doubt the tanks are the same. I'm sure the EFI tank has some baffles in it.
Converting to EFI isn't a hard job to do honestly. When I 1st installed my B20A, I ran it with the stock A20ECU and a teg distributor.
http://pages.videotron.com/omus
3geez member since July 12 2000
I need these parts!
https://www.3geez.com/forum/showthread.php?t=67742
Hmm. Interesting... you do have a good point about having USDM parts to play with. But I was planning on switching to OBD-I after I get it running anyways... I guess I'll have to look into that a little deeper. While I'm at it, I think you've convinced me to pull that harness... aaaand the gas tank. Hopefully they didn't puncture it at the yard. It's the most common way they drain the tanks around here.
If you later want to switch to OBD1, just get a conversion harness or make one yourself from junkyard parts
http://pages.videotron.com/omus
3geez member since July 12 2000
I need these parts!
https://www.3geez.com/forum/showthread.php?t=67742
You would want to get the tank. I'm sure it's not punctured since honda tanks have drain bolts.
The yard my friend works at doesn't undo any drain bolts. They puncture, drain, stack, then crush a few weeks later. Luckily this isn't the yard my friend works at, so I hope you are right!
thats such good news, take the whole damn car if you have to man.
and it would be easier to add those extra wires than install the specially made standalone B20A efi loom i made.
this is probably enough to make ur car work!!
I just cross-referenced the tanks. They carry the same part numbers for the SEi and the LX. I'm not convinced that the tanks are any different.
Both came up as: 17010-SA6-671
And it shows that it fits both cars when I looked it up at another site:
http://www.hondapartsnow.com/accord/...~ca13sa51.html
I think I'll just keep my tank.
Yeah keep your tank then!
Grab the hoses and all the other SE-i/EFI goodies.
Grab the speedometer and dash wire harness too. The ECU will need a speed sensor input and I'm really unsure if your stock carb speedo will have this one.
http://pages.videotron.com/omus
3geez member since July 12 2000
I need these parts!
https://www.3geez.com/forum/showthread.php?t=67742
Definitely going to do that!
I'm going to grab the fuel pump and as many lines as I can. The filter and all that good stuff that feeds up to the fuel rail. Mainly for the bracketry and test fitting.
I've already got my speedo tapped for VSS. The wire is running across the dash to where I will be putting the ECU. Cluster is such a pain to pull, I'm going to leave the SEi one as is. It's literally a clusterfuck.
Thanks for your help, guys. Your suggestions are always appreciated!
yay with the tanks being the same. Altho you dont need a vss on a pre 1988 ecu it doesnt throw an error code. it just remvoes the speed limiter and cold rev limit so i wouldnt bother lol
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