The ps fluid in my sohc ka-t never came close to overheating, even with 235mm azenis at really tight autocrosses. That's with no ps cooling at all.
The majority of the drift guys don't have ps coolers either, and they overstress their powersteering like whoa.
if i add a transmission cooler it will be controlled by a thermostat. same as with the engine oil cooler, i'm going to wait until I can get the miloden thermostat. if the oil is below 180 it just circulates up to the thermosat and back to the engine. it doesn't start to go to the cooler until it's over 180.Originally Posted by 86AccordLxi
well the loop was in the way, all i did was replace the factory one with a smaller more compact one, normally when the speed valve is closed below 15 miles an hour, all the fluid goes through the rack and then through the cooler,if it's above 15 a lot of the fluid just bypasses the rack and straight back to the resevoir.
I see.
I guess I just never considered a 3g needing so much auxiliary cooling (if any), except *maybe* an oil cooler for some of the turbo cars on here. With 185/195s, even without cooling I can't imagine ps fluid overheating, or even trannies.
I changed everything over to braided line and AN,because I got sick of the rubber hoses always leaking. plus the fluid covered hoses and 20 year old plastic resevoir looked like ass. When I came back from the florida meet, one of the factory hoses sprung a leak and coated the bottom of the car with PS fluid, this was on the florida turnpike.
normally when the pump is working hard all the fluid travels back from the rack to under the resevoir,to one side of that metal line, all the way across the front of the car,makes a loop and all the way back. then it goes back to the resevoir. the long metal line acts like a cooler. it's like you unwound a tube and fin cooler and stretched it across the front end of the car
Yeah, I know that problem all too well.
From what I've heard and experienced, you're not really supposed to reuse those stock clamps once you you break them open. Replacing them with worm-gear clamps is highly recommended, and I've done that with all buy one clamp on my car.
edit: Yes, I know how a stock cooling loop works, but I see even that as overkill for a ps system that is probably woefully understressed.
the other reason i went to all this much trouble,is to convert the entire system over to braided line. the main thing that concerns me is the 22 year old high pressure line right over the exaust manifold. There have been several fires on here due to that hose going bad. I'm taking a factory hose,cutting off the metal ends,and tig welding those to steel AN adaptors. then I can run aeroquip power steering hose on the high pressure side. as far as the oil cooler, it's set up to operate only when needed. I don't want to cool the oil way down,just stabilize the oil temp when it's a hundred degrees and i'm stuck in traffic. A properly designed oil cooler system will help keep the properties of your oil the same all through the oils life cycle between changes. they are proven to be very benificial,just most people don't want to screw with them.
some more stuff done ,about to finish up under the dash area. inside of the cowl area, i just ran the bulkhead fitting for the washer fluid. all i need to do is run the tube down to the other end. You can see the antenna hidden in there,it will come up through the cowl, and through a small hole in the back edge of the hood. I have an interlock system with the hood pin switch, it won't move with the hood raised, and if i pop the hood it retracts.
picture of the oil cooler,i will change those fittings on the top of it to straight ones later, i was just fitting it in there.
better picture of the radiator resevoir tank.
I removed the AC condenser, ac is junk anyway, hasn't worked in a decade. this is the heater box side of the adaptor, it connects to the heater blower with 3 inch silicone hose
oil pressure bulkhead fitting and washer fluid bulkhead fitting
this is the blower end where the hose goes, the adaptor is a really hard nylon material with an aluminum tube.
sorry if it's blurry, it's hard to take a picture upside down
what i've been staring at all week
Ok first coolant hose about to be replaced, this is the one from the cyl head to one side of the heat control valve, i wanted to run all braided line, but there has to be some small pieces of rubber hose to the heat control valve. my solution is simple,run braided line to the firewall,drop it down to near the heater with a down pipe,and connect to the valve. but i never do anything half ass.
first attempt at the down pipe, was fine, was cleaning up the welds and the tool caught a weld. FAIL
second piece, split clamp with two pieces, was fine, was drilling the holes,part slipped in the mill and the cutter gouged across the surface. turned it down some more, then it was too thin for the threads. FAIL
third attempt, had a two piece clamp for holding the PS and AC hoses over the manifold, it's obsolete now because I got rid of the AC, hacked it in half with a cut off wheel in the angle grinder, it fit,so i machined it down at work.
I made the down pipe from a solid piece of aluminum I bored out, then threaded it to 1/2 NPT threads. yop piece is an AN adaptor with a reducer, bottom had to use a brass street elbow to get the connection I wanted, goes to a barb fitting for the heater hose. I didn't need to use the bend,I rotated the entire thing, and used a piece of existing heater hose. the two studs get nuts at the inside of the firewall. not sure about the other part of the heater hose yet,i need to measure it, if it's a standard diameter, i can use a compression fitting after cutting off the flare. I hope it's just a little big,thenm i can machine out the brass ferule to make it work.
oh the wingnut was just to hold it together to test it
ok the cowl cover is ready to go back on,everything is tight. I'm putting nut plates on the back hold down holes now,no more plastic fasteners.
back of cowl cover, i have all the weatherstripping on
all plumbing is in and the antenna is in
Last edited by lostforawhile; 12-20-2008 at 08:27 PM.
1988 Honda Accord LX-i Coupe 123k miles.
i'm working on it cah,photofuckit freezed my computer even after clearing cookies and emptying the browser catch, looking for another host. they have so many ads it just screws everything up.
Imageshack? lol
1988 Honda Accord LX-i Coupe 123k miles.
ok they are up
ok the pieces for the cooling system are done, thanks to Davie Maule for help with the TIG welding.
[b]this is the water pipe out of the cyl head, I had to fabricate a steel piece with 1/2 npt threads that went over the end of this,and got welded on. I also took a nut,bored out the threads,and pressed it over the piece,then welded it on. this will give me a way to screw it back in. All the other eighties hondas i saw had water pipes with hexes to screw them in. except this car. had to take it out with a pipe wrench.
cut one of the welded on pieces off of the water pipe, again, changed it to a 1/2 inch npt, I think the smaller threads were too small and would have restricted water going to the heater core.
]
So lets just say all that plumbing stuff ands about 180hp to the wheels right?
for some reason it smells likein here.
88 DX hatch.
why does real aeroquip stuff smell like rice? i'm getting rid of some of the rubber hoses and replacing them with something functional. when is the last time you saw a ricer actually fabricate something? if they were overbraid they would be rice,these are the real deal. if you have ever fought with the cooling hoses on one of these cars, you would understand why i'm changing them. I plan on driving the piss out of this car when it's done, i want something ultra reliable. I have a shitload of the eighties style aeroquip fittings and adaptors, and rolls of hose,might as well use them. it has nothing to do with horsepower it's reliability. when things get a little bit better on money i will finish the dual carbs project, now that will add horsepowerSo lets just say all that plumbing stuff ands about 180hp to the wheels right?
for some reason it smells like
Last edited by lostforawhile; 12-22-2008 at 06:04 PM.
Dude im just joking with you. Its cool. i just cant believe you converted everything. lol. And i had the damn p/s line explode all over the exhaust manifold. I plan on doing exactly what you are doing when im done my swap. I think its cool you actually make your own stuff then just buy it. and that you didnt come back at me with a super huge attitude. lol
good job man. When you puttin those dual carbs on? is the engine stock?
88 DX hatch.
it's ok, i will finish the carbs when the money situation gets beter. we just closed indefinitly. i think everyones projects are on hold. yea I found on the power steering that even with new clamps the dam fluid still seeps out everywhere,it's synthetic,thats probably why . i think i put a stop to the leaks. the engine isn't stock at all,it's been so long i can't even remember what i did to it anymore.
Can you convert the p/s lines to braided? I wanted to do that to my car. along with an oil cooler. It would suck spending 3 months doing a hardashell swap and then having to go back in becuase a p/s line busted or somthing like that. lol
I was going to put a p/s cooler on just for shits and giggles.
88 DX hatch.
i just sent you a pm, you can't use regular line,but you can use aeroquip power steering line. i'm going to cut stock ends off of a hose then tig weld on AN adaptors to those ends,then you just run the line between the adaptors. just like i did with the inlet fitting on the pump. the aeroquip PS hose runs about 60 bucks for 6 feet and you have to use steel hose ends not aluminum because of the pressure.
only minor problem i see right now is the advance hits the nut on the tube, i'll just tighten it up,then grind the corner of the nut where it hits, the nut is welded all the way around,so i can just use a box end to tighten it. that nut isn't something that will be used every day, just to tighten up the outlet tube.
ok lots more done,the dam down pipe for the water is FINALLY in. what a son of a bitch to get just right. on top of that the studs came out behind the heater box,so i had to put the nuts on by feel. then use a bunch of extensions and swivels to tighten them. this is the first braided hose. I already have the water pipe done,and the thermostat housing. just waiting on some gaskets. those two ugly hoses behind the braided one will be braided too of course. the vaccume advance is STILL hitting the water pipe,so more grinding tomorrow.
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