yea the carbed lines are tiny, stock system might be good on a modern honda but not on theseOriginally Posted by Tdurr
yea the carbed lines are tiny, stock system might be good on a modern honda but not on these
I guess I could just run stainless line along the inside of the frame rail under the car, corrosion is not a problem here, no road salt and it would be way eaisier then running it in the car.
LOL that pipe looks like a penis
1988 Honda Accord LX-i Coupe 123k miles.
OK the fuel filter is finally mounted under the car, I had to relocate one of the holes for the bracket, as I had to move the bracket back some. Since I already had one good mounting hole, I put masking tape over the frame rail, poked a hole in it where the threaded hole was, then put some VHT double sided tape on the masking tape. I just lined up the good hole with a bolt, pressed the bracket to the frame, and pulled it back off, this left the tape attached to the bracket, all I had to do then, was center punch the hole and drill it. I'm sorry the pictures suck, I don't have an LCD on my camera anymore, so i can't see what i'm taking a picture of
hole transferred to bracket
filter
threaded holes in frame rail
bracket bolted to frame rail
and filter mounted
i thot it had a screen on it? oh well I tried...
roodoo thats a redneck film camera that has a screen door for the film. I just got the fitting brazed onto the fuel pump hanger, this is a great idea if you are converting to FI from carb, all you have to do is cut off the barb, then it's a letter size drill to drill the pipe thread side of the fitting. it taps right into place, then you braze or silver solder it. all you would have to do extra is use a bulkhead fitting with a hole drilled in the hanger top for a return line. the bulkhead fittings seal with an O ring. this would allow you to use any aftermarket FI pump that fits. as far as lines, you would need to run one pressure line, which you can run with double wall steel line, and flare fittings. you can use the old carb hard line as a fuel return line. you just need to change all the rubber hose to FI rated hose with FI clamps. I can't remember what the letter size drill was, but I'll post it tomorrow.This would prevent having to change the tank to convert to FI. I did this since my filter is AN and I can run braided line to the filter. I'm going to run a return line as well using the old line, the reason I'm doing this, is I'm running a regulator, if you make a fitting with a very small orifice, it will constantly bleed some pressure back to the tank, this keeps pressure from creeping behind the regulator and gives you a more steady pressure. also as the gas in the tank warms up on a hot day it can affect the output pressure of the regulator,this prevents this.
When i get this running , I need to replace the fuel pump,it was sitting in the gas that went bad in the tank,so it's toast, I want to put in a good Bosch pump, I've been through too many cheap pumps. this was an old hanger, it looked really bad, but once i blasted it it was much better then it appeared. I guess I could coat it with epoxy paint, but eventually that will dissolve.
well I've been out there messing with it all day, and I FINALLY got that stupid power steering pressure line out, I cut the metal part with the flare off of the rest of the hose, and I need to braze an AN fitting on to it, and get it back in, I wanted to run the hose over the valve cover, but it's looking impossible, I'm probably going to run hard line all the way around the passenger side almost to the front, then use a length of -8 power steering hose. it has to be 3/8 double wall steel, no aluminum in the PS fittings, they just aren't designed for the pressure. it was really fun fishing out that line out from around all the lines under the hood, I forgot the oil pressure lines run right in front of it. and who is the idiot who put the clamps where you can't reach them. pictures later
Posting Permissions
Reply With Quote
Bookmarks