plans/ideas for the 3gee.

[OldSkoolA20accord]

Hey guys. i had some ideas of stuff i wanted to do with my car. im currently in the process of tearing it down and rebuilding it. Might bore it 40 over. not sure yet. I was going to port the head and cam regrind. i was thinking about putting yamaha r1 carbs on it but im not sure how i would hook up the brake booster. any one have any ideaS?

I ALSO need to know what kind of ignition i should runs and the parts i need. it should be pretty badass once its done. i just got the carb and all of the ac shit out today. Im painting it yellow and putting some green rota j specials on it.

does anyone know of and high comp. ratio pistons for the a20a1? im going to be running direct port nitrous when its all done.

[ghettogeddy]

Is Stil Lhave Them 50 Mm Over Pistons For Sale
I Think Im Gona Pout A Ad In The For Sale Section

[OldSkoolA20accord]

Come on. surely someone can help.

[Hauntd ca3]

get your motor to the machinist and get it measured and crack tested first.
then go for the first appropriate o/s piston set so you have room to go further if you blow it up.
decide what you are actually going to do with the car first.
no good building a mega hp na monster if its your dd.
been there,done that and it was a wanker to drive.
i'd go for a mild port and a 3 angle valve grind with stainless onepiece valves.
some people prefer 5 angle valve grinds coz they flow a bit better but i like three .
once you've had the head ported etc, get it flowed complete withthe intake set up as it will be on the car and the headers you plan on using.
is a bit wanky to do that way but give most accurate flow numbers.
get the cam ground to suit the flow specs of the set up.
no good having a huge lift/duration cam if the head cant flow what the cams capable of.
have the bootom end(clutch and flywheel and front pulley included) balanced.
and have the rods if staying oem polished and shot peened for bit of xtra strength. or buy h beams if budget allows.
use oem honda pistons and rings coz they are bloody good and go for the higher comp ones which ever they are.
nothing wrong with using the old vac advance dist aslong as you have it regraphed properly to suit the comp ratio by someone who knows what they're doing.
tell the engine builder you plan on using nitrous to. is a motor killer that stuff
(personally think its for cheats, throttle in a bottle)
building motors properly gets rel expensive real fast
figure a budget and double it to be safe.
do it once and do it right.
better to spend 10k once every 10 years than 5k every 3
you'll never build a wicked motor on a budget and have it last.

[rjudgey]

You guy's are starting to type and sound like me these days!! lol!!

Yeah same as above.
A20A3/4 pistons are the best to use if on a budget, balancing the rods and having them shot peened is a good idea. But you can't beat the aftermarket rods and having some forged pistons made up, you would get a higher CR ratio from that.
As for the valves still worth going up in size if you buy the SI valves then you can use those in stock size or if you wanted to do a cheap upgrade then get 8 exhaust valves and have them remachined to new size and resuse the old retainers and platforms and springs for the exhaust valves that you might have and put onto the inlet side so you will need 12 exhaust retainers, platforms, and springs but you would have a double springs all round and much more beefed up valvetrain. You also won't need to change the inlet guides as you just have them reemed out to the new exhaust valve size. Head work wise i would highly recommend these guys.
http://www.cccylinderheads.com/main.html
They know what they are doing and can cater for anything i can give you specifics of what to get done and just get them to do it!! Our engines love bigger valves and with a cam and higher compression and a decent exhaust system and header to go on they really fly!!

[cygnus x-1]

Don't bore the block any more than you have to. There will be next to no performance gain and the block will be useless if it ever needs to be rebuilt again (not that they're rare or anything, but since you're putting money into it you might as well make it last). If you want to use OEM pistons, 83mm is the limit. Any more than that and you either use cheap aftermarket replacements or custom forged. With custom forged you can get any size made you need.

With ITB setups (carb'ed or injected), you generally run a vacuum line from each carb to a reservoir, which could be as simple as a short pipe with caps on the ends and several barb fittings tapped into the side. This reservior then feeds any accessories that need vacuum. It's used to smooth out the vacuum level and spread out the draw evenly over the 4 cylinders.

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