Hey, does anyone have the outer diameter of our fuel feed line?
Could also use the return line OD.
Trying to price out some AN stuff.
Hey, does anyone have the outer diameter of our fuel feed line?
Could also use the return line OD.
Trying to price out some AN stuff.
I'm not sure whether to go with a regular tube nut and sleeve or compression fitting. Do you know what the max pressure of the compression fittings are?
Wont be able to measure the lines myself in the next couple of days.
it depends they will hold a lot of pressure though. if the line is double wall steel ,you really need to run the same because it runs inside of the car. if it's the double wall,you get a double flare brake flaring tool, most autp parts stores have them, you can go from there to pipe thread. once it's at pipe thread, then you use a standard AN to pipe thread adaptor. the only way to go from line straight to AN is to use a tube flare nut,but that line probably isnt suitable for it. plus you need an expensive 37 degree flaring tool. you CAN NOT use a standard automotive flaring tool. anything you need to know about AN's ask. I am going to check into russel hard line tube adaptors though. they are designed to change a hard tube to AN directly without flaring it. not sure on the recomended outside line diameters though.
Last edited by lostforawhile; 01-07-2009 at 08:15 PM.
it's the larger line inside of the car correct? just not sure if it's the same size on the carb vs the fuel injection or even the a series and the B series. i would asssume they use the same line on the fuel injection other then the fuel return line.
I believe the carb fuel feed line is the same size as the FI return line.
FI fuel feed line is bigger.
A 37 deg flare isnt expencive if you f.ex. just get a cheap one from summit. I want it simple, so the less convertion adapters I can get away with the better.
To follow up on this, the fuel feed and fuel return line are both 8mm outer diameter and 6,5mm ID. I believe the carb fuel line is the same size. This size equals 5/16" which is -5AN.
The flare nut in the engine bay on the FI feed line is 14mm with 1.5mm thread.
Now does anyone know what the thread pitch of the banjo bolt that goes into the fuel pump is?
It's a 12mm bolt.
i'm looking at MSC now there is such a thing as metric compression fittings. you go to a metric pipe thread then convert to SAE to change to AN,there are also metric to AN adaptors made
Why not just flare it and use a simple flare nut? Saves you from 4453864 adapters and you have less risks of a leak. And it's cheaper.
Hmm, I'm guessing the banjo bolt is 12x1.25mm.
because it's metric and it's steel, flares are meant for softer materials like aluminum and copper unless you have a double flare like for brake lines, but the tube is metric which throws it off for most flare setups. i already found the 8mm OD tube compression fitting to 1/4 bsp, i can make an adaptor to go from 1/4 bspt to AN pretty easy. most of the sensor fittings on the engine are BSPT already including the oil pressure sender.
when my tax stuff gets here i will see about getting a 1/4 bspt tap, I already have a 1/8 one which i can use to make adaptors the factory oil pressure sender and temp sender will screw into. the 1/8 tap was over 30 bucks years ago, you don't want to know how much the 1/4 one is. If i get one i will probably end up making the adaptors to go to AN to convert the hard fuel line over to pipe thread. then I can make a few to sell on here. the other thing on bspt threads is they require a sealer just like pipe threads, they are a whitworth angle on the threads and they don't self seal.
But it's 8mm, so you can use a -5 flare nut and sleeve followed by a -5 to -6 adapter.
I dont see the problem?
And if you dont trust the aluminum flare nuts then use steel or stainless ones instead. Flares are meant for regular steel as well. People even flare stainless steel.
Looks like an AN conversion will run me around $230-250 including fuel filter, not including tools.
why so much? whats wrong with the existing steel line in the car already? the other option you have to is remove the factory line from the car,clean it out, then silver solder a -6 steel AN flare adaptor right to the line end. I took a flare union and cut it in half,then drilled the end to the proper size to fit on the PS hard lines. thats how i went to AN on those lines that run beside the resevoir i think they are 8mm also. let me see if i can find the picture
here you go,where the steel lines come up from around the engine, i just cut a -6 flare union in half and each half is silver soldered to the steel tube. nice clean installation.![]()
Cool, that's 2 weld fittings for the price of 1 haha.
I already decided to use weld fittings. I am going to keep the oem hardline, I wont be touching that. I'll be modding these instead:
2 weld fittings $7.64
1 90 deg metric 12x1.25mm male to -6AN male $13.58
6 straight hose ends $30
1 30 deg hose end $20.74
1 straight 12x1.25mm male to -6AN $6.59
10 ft performo-flex braided hose $70
1 fuel injection fuel filter -6AN $75
Filter and hose is expencive unfortunately.
What is that silver solder stuff? Dont think I've ever heard of it. It's probably forbidden to use here lol.
What kind of materials can you join?
silver solder shoudn't be forbidden,it has no lead in it, a lot of plumbers use it now because of that fact. it's actually preferred because it's lead free. it's like brazing but much stronger. it's actually excellent for what you are doing. if you look at a factory PS pump the tube inlet to the pump is actually silver soldered to the block with the o ring. it's used extensivly in AC systems too because it's very strong and works well on high pressure fittings.
if you can on the piece of line from the fuel return to the tank, try to get AN hose with a sythentic inner liner,not the rubber, the fuel gets hot when it circulates back out of the rail and back towards the tank, this causes it to oxidize and create free radicals that attack any kind of rubber hose. aeroquip said something about this a few years ago, they have a hose with a synthetic inner liner, you would only need it from the fuel return to where it goes into the metal hose.
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