SUPER Day!

[2oodoor]

^^^abosolutley, cheap insurance dude
you could have damage under the piston, as well as rod. I would pull that oil pan just to inspect that piston and rod and slap a new piston and all the rod bearings in it. Not a lot of money involved there and you have access to a lift so that wil be easy breezy.
On the other hand you can fnd these motors in the JY with minor issues , mostly head gaskets blown.. for $100 so if you want to put this one together and spray it scatter it.. no big loss except what you are putting into it this month.

[markmdz89hatch]

...or if you're real lucky, and get a spray'n'pop, you might have a rod claim ownership of your hood after it makes its own exit from the side of the block.

[Tdurr]

i'm with everyone else in saying that the guides and piston might just be shot. that piston does have a clear mark where the valve bent in and kept tapping it. is the bowl all marked up from the edge of the valve banging it?

it has a clear mark, but you can clearly see that it only hit 2-3 times, first time was the worst(where the grove for the valve is), a half inch or so it hit once/twice and kinda nicked it. I will be getting advice form someone who knows his shit..

Tim I would go ahead and replace the piston. I know its not what you want to hear, but i would do it as a precautionary measure. You know Im cheap and if I cam upon a piston like that I would probably replace it.

ugg...

^^^abosolutley, cheap insurance dude
you could have damage under the piston, as well as rod. I would pull that oil pan just to inspect that piston and rod and slap a new piston and all the rod bearings in it. Not a lot of money involved there and you have access to a lift so that wil be easy breezy.

yea i would love to do that, but I have NO funds and my time on the lift has expired really. When i said i had 100, thats all i got, i cant even bum gas money from the rents, nor do i have a job, shit is hard right now. The shop is at my school and I'm really not supposed to be working on my car if im not making the shop money...

fuck.. ill talk to someone tomorrow bout this..

[russiankid]

I think your best bet right now is to borrow money from some friends, go to the junkyard and start testing motors for compression. Find the best one and swap it in so you have a DD.

[markmdz89hatch]

seriously man, tell me what parts you need, and I'll have them in a box and on their way to you on Friday. That's the soonest I can get them boxed and shipped as it's the earliest I can get to my parts. ...but if it's not just a valve, but a piston you need, just say the word.

It can also be argued that once you get touchdown of a valve to piston, that you should replace the wrist-pin and bearings too because you could have put too much stress on them in the process. If you need bearings, pins, etc, let me know. I'm not here to hand out parts to the world, but in severe cases like this, it's the least I could do because I'm not down there to lend a hand turning wrenches.

[lostforawhile]

it has a clear mark, but you can clearly see that it only hit 2-3 times, first time was the worst(where the grove for the valve is), a half inch or so it hit once/twice and kinda nicked it. I will be getting advice form someone who knows his shit..


ugg...



yea i would love to do that, but I have NO funds and my time on the lift has expired really. When i said i had 100, thats all i got, i cant even bum gas money from the rents, nor do i have a job, shit is hard right now. The shop is at my school and I'm really not supposed to be working on my car if im not making the shop money...

fuck.. ill talk to someone tomorrow bout this..

did you figure out why it completly quit running after this? usually it will run on three cylinders, better do a compression check. usually when it quits at high rpm all of the sudden after eating a valve,thats a very bad thing. sort of like the "non castrol" engine in the castrol commercial. and if you want to talk to people who know their shit,the collective knowledge on this site is far supirior to the average mechanic you are going to find.

[cubert]

and if you want to talk to people who know their shit,the collective knowledge on this site is far supirior to the average mechanic you are going to find.

exactly what I was thinking...


You cant rush this thing back together...because youll be in the same position when the thing blows again...

[Tdurr]

It started up fine and wut not but it wouldnt run for any lenght of time over 5 sec without dieing. BUt the valve was bent and open, so after i attempeted to start it a fews times i smelled fuel and each cylender was flooded. I was planning on doing a compression test before i started it anyways so dont gotta worry about that.

um. If you really want to help me out markmz, i would say what ever u really think was needed to keep it prob free. But i did decided last night that once i get a job im going to save up for a performance good pistons and rods, and all that jazz.
g2g ill update/pm ppl later...

[Tdurr]

Oh yea, i forgot to say i have a 20 overbore.... so jy piston is a no go....

[markmdz89hatch]

ah shit. ...so you're still welcome to the valve(s), but given the fact that you have a .20 overbore, I can assume those are aftermarket pistons, so you're outta luck there.

I would honestly suggest hitting up the j/y or a local member for a long block and just rip yours out, dump the new one in, and go. I expect that would be your quickest way to get back on the road.

[Tdurr]

Im just gonna run it, and if its really messed up bad, Ill take it off the road, pull the motor, get a crx from a friend for cheap, and then save up for some serious mods...
here are some simi better pics of the piston(cell phone)




Im gonna make a thread bout the strut bar...

[markmdz89hatch]

Im just gonna run it, and if its really messed up bad, Ill take it off the road, pull the motor, get a crx from a friend for cheap, and then save up for some serious mods...
here are some simi better pics of the piston(cell phone)

Im gonna make a thread bout the strut bar...

what strut bar?

[lostforawhile]

if you are being offered free parts ,take the parts get rid of the bad piston while it's apart and fix it.

[Tdurr]

^^ i got a 20 overbore....

what strut bar?

and this one https://www.3geez.com/forum/showthrea...197#post926197

[mushroom_toy]

Doesnt look as bad as I though....just make absolute sure there is no part of the piston sticking up. Also you also know you might lose some compression on that cyl.

[Tdurr]

^^ yea its not THAT bad. I already took a ziz wheel/brillo pad to it , nothing is sticking up. And i dont mind losing compression, Im gonna just save up for a super sayon(lol DBZ) rebuild.

[2oodoor]

ahh ,20 overbore, that puts a totally different factor in diagnoseseses . lol
IMO it pushes the gamble futher both ways good and bad...
Hope it works out as you planned, just try to rememeber you stop making horsepower around 6.5k rpm (on average) with these and the only point in taking to redline is to have the powerband ready for the next gear, depending on that and the rest of the car you may not even need to rev it high to go fast.

[Tdurr]

^^ yea i usually dont go past 6.3k.... but i aim for 6-6.2k.
I kno its a gamble, but i dont have too much fear in it. I acutally think i lost a valve ajustment screw cuz of the younger dumbass kids touching shit.

[Tdurr]

update:
i got the head on minus the cam, everything else is hooked up. So tomorrow i should be getting started.... ill let u folks kno how it goes....

[2oodoor]

yeah if you have an adjustment screw that is super easy to turn you may want some thread locker on it.


also when you are adjusting the valves, make sure you are looking at it in a 90 degree angle = and not >

[Tdurr]

^^ looking at wut? you use a feeler gauge...

btw ITS ALIVE! and running rich. 2 clips on the thermostat broke, so i gotta rig those cuz im going on a trip tomorrow...

[2oodoor]

what I mean is, like at .007 using the feeler guage, have plenty of light and make sure when you drag the gauge across there it is at a ninty so when you feel the drag of the guage it is going squarely into the gap. The light is for seeing that you are in the gap not at an angle. make sense?
It is an EASY mistake to make, that is why they make 45 degree angle feeler guages which are really hard to find these days, most of the are just streight blades.

[Tdurr]

^^ wuts really funny is i used some feeler gauges from my teacher and he has been in the auto game for 30 years and had 45degree gauges. Showed me how to do it and he was like "damn, you did a really good job." can still hear the valves tick a lil bit, but ill go back in a week or two and re check them.

[2oodoor]

egg celll ant