yes yes its leaking an its new. Is this common casue its fusturating to see that when i just put that on. I put Import gasket maker all over the gasket itself. I dont think that would cause it to leak. Its only leaking from the timming belt side. Well both of the "U" sides. right at the middle so idk. its not to bad couple of leaks and thats it. What do you guys think i did wrong?
Last edited by Rendon LX-i; 01-17-2009 at 10:03 PM.
200+ ALL MOTOR LS VTEC
Maybe the bolts were tightened too much? I personally have not had much luck in the past with this job so when mine got too bad I took it to a good Honda shop and it hasn't leaked since. That's five and a half years so far. The job's way too much of a pain to do it and still have leaks and my level of patience is just not that high!
ummm i think thats my problem its to tight. but thats cause i didnt torque em. FUCk oh well...just have to deal with it a bit then replace it again.
200+ ALL MOTOR LS VTEC
Or also i used gasket maker when i was suppose to use sealant. so Crankshaft pressure blew out the gasket marker causing it to leak....Just have to replace it again. Going to wait tell spring/summer.
200+ ALL MOTOR LS VTEC
i'm doing this right now myself. thing leaks right onto to front of the exhaust and causes a terrible cloud from under my hood.
whats the difference between gasket maker and sealant? i have to ask...
i call the stuff i use gasket sealant.lol
not meaning to jack but i'm into this myself and only want to do it once
"Weight is relative to power like time is relative to speed"
sealer is just thin film and dont leave that extra/hardern crap like RTV silicon does. Lets say you put a shit load of RTV and you tighen the bolts, then see that its starting to ozz out. So you know that thats happening in the inside of the pan also so....when it drys up that extra harden RTV can fall into the oil and block the oil pick up or oil pump causing you motor to starve then you can figure out the rest lol...not good. but i didnt use a shit load.Originally Posted by Demon1024
Rendon
200+ ALL MOTOR LS VTEC
buy some threebond or similar sealant.
you only needa thin smear of the stuff on either side on the gasket and it works a treat
Here's what I think are the key steps in keeping the oil pan leak free:
1. Clean the gasket mounting surface of the block and pan with acetone or some kind of solvent.
2. Use honda oem gasket
3. Put a little bit of red rtv on the pan on the "U" cutout corners.
4. Put the gasket on the block first, not on the pan. This insures proper alignment of the gasket. The studs will hold the gasket in place.
5. Start tightening the nuts from the middle and work your way to the outside. The spec is 7ft/lbs. Once you have tightened all the nuts, go back to the first ones and re-tighten until they're back to 7ft/lbs. Repeat as many times as necessary until all the nuts hold @ 7ft/lbs.
Always works for me!
Originally Posted by Justanothermike
my A20 is not SLOW. ur A20 is slow.
nice^^^
no need to use gasket maker or rtv if you are using a gasket. That stuff acts like grease and will hydraulicly push out the actual gasket when you start squeezing on it. Only just a tad on the corners of the u shaped like everyone says, Tad= about the size of a piece of chicken that gets stuck in your teethor maybe a booger...
Remember oil pan leaks would normally never be from pressure, only gravity. It will come out from slinging around, then drip from where it spilled. If it is steady coming out when the motor is running it may be a crank seal or something else. If you have that much pressure sometin 's a fowl. I understand your pressure cookin anyway so you may want to chick that .
Hope that helps,
we used a honda gasket and sealant that i let stay overnight...no leaks
1989 Honda Accord LX-i
B18c1 swap since 7/2011
175whp and 132tq
Redzone tuned
Thats what im going to do messy. how much they cost
200+ ALL MOTOR LS VTEC
Is the pan a Honda one? When I had an aftermarket pan, it would always leak. Once I spent the money on a Honda pan, the gasket actually snapped into the U sections. Then I just applied some Honda sealant on the gasket itself on the U portion, no where else. Used string to hold the gasket to the pan. Once I got a few bolts to hold the pan I removed the strings and used an extension with a socket to tighten the bolts in the pattern in the Haynes manual. Furthermore, I then used a ratchet and gave each bolt 1/4 turn. I kept repeating that until each bolt felt tight. Right now it seeps from the front left and right corners, but its nothing to worry about.
Sam
1989 Accord LX: Sold with 208k-now somewhere around 230k with new owner
Current:
2014 Elantra Sport 6MT
2000 Montero Sport 4x4 (beater, trail rig)
They way you said it is the way i Exactly did it. Seeps alittle Only after i go for a drive and sits. but couple of drops not a consant drip.
200+ ALL MOTOR LS VTEC
It took me 4 or 5 tries to get it to seal fairly well.
Sam
1989 Accord LX: Sold with 208k-now somewhere around 230k with new owner
Current:
2014 Elantra Sport 6MT
2000 Montero Sport 4x4 (beater, trail rig)
Use Loctite liquid gaskets. Specifically Loctite 5699. It's OEM approved at Honda and in my experience works better for aftermarket servicing because it has longer open time. The problem with short open time (like TB products becasue they contain solvents), is that they skin over prior to assembly. This doesn't allow the product to provide sufficient adhesion and sealing characteristics. Go for the Loctite brand!
mine was like 23 bucks from honda
1989 Honda Accord LX-i
B18c1 swap since 7/2011
175whp and 132tq
Redzone tuned
I used a honda gasket with a thin layer of gasket maker. Not the "correct" way, but it doesn't leak a drop.
88 LX-i coupe auto (241K DD), 88 LX-i coupe 5-speed, 89 SE-i coupe auto.
CARDONE SUCKS.
I just did mine with an aftermarket pan and aftermarket gasket... I was told don't use RTV only the the u corners!!! well i did that and i torqued first to 7ft. lbs and then to 10 ft. lbs and its leaking i put some oil dye to see exactly where its leaking... but the gasket itself looks overtighten!!!
3geez is F**kin Awesome!!!
When you go tighter it crushes the little bumps that space the pan from the block... The result is crushed gasket.
Another thing I wanted to point out is that a 5-80 ft/lbs torque wrench is not going to be very accurate at the lower end. Get something in the correct range or if you're careful, you can feel when those indentations make contact, and go a hair tighter. You'll end up over-torquing with anything else.
88 LX-i coupe auto (241K DD), 88 LX-i coupe 5-speed, 89 SE-i coupe auto.
CARDONE SUCKS.
im going to but a 1/2 inch tq wrench they pretty cheap so i can do it right. then i use the loctite gasket maker. Ill try that.
200+ ALL MOTOR LS VTEC
I wouldn't bother. It'll likely be too tight before you even get a reading on that...
88 LX-i coupe auto (241K DD), 88 LX-i coupe 5-speed, 89 SE-i coupe auto.
CARDONE SUCKS.
This about covers it. The torque sequence is probably most important. I don't do the acetone bit and I use Napa gaskets, but I've done two with zero leaks each time. Don't remember how I kept the thing from moving around, but it probably involved a lot of swearing. If you don't have a torque wrench, then GET ONE!! I'd sooner do without a ratchet than a torque wrench. In fact, I'd give up half my toolbox to keep the torque wrench.
Dr_Snooz
"I like to take hammers, and just break stuff, just break stuff." - Beavis
1989 Honda Accord LX-i Coupe, 240k miles, MT swap, rear disc swap
Shop manual downloads available here: CLICK TO VIEW
i got a 3/4 torque wrench but dont have a 10lbs setting lol. going to get one her very soon. I did put the gasket on the block first. I tryed the pan first but i was getting very pissed lol...
200+ ALL MOTOR LS VTEC
ive always found it easier to smear an incredibly thin layer of sealant to the part (oil pan, valve cover, top of block, etc.) with my finger, let it sit and get tacky, apply the gasket and let it sit for 20-30 minutes, add sealant again with my finger to the other side of the gasket, let it sit and get tacky, then put it on the car. this way seems to keep from leaking, and you dont get gobs of sealant pressing out from the mating surfaces. if you do it all at once, you also run the risk of getting an air bubble caught between the gasket and mating surfaces, and that leads to leaks.
Today i reinstalled my oil pan gasket added a small amount of selant around the u corners and the middle studs and it turns out im leaking from the middle studs front and rear!!! IM FUCKING PISSED THIS WAS THE 2ND TIME!!! and still leaking!!! i torqued it to 9 newton meters... read my shop manual and it said 14nm... i also used a 3/8 snap-on digital torque wrench!!! ill try and and tighten them again!!! if this doesnt fix it im gonna to buy a OEM Honda Gasket!!!!
3geez is F**kin Awesome!!!
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