i forget what my hood scoop was off of, it it's fiberglass and took forever to get right.Originally Posted by roodoo2
i forget what my hood scoop was off of, it it's fiberglass and took forever to get right.
fuel for thought?
this is the same bracket i had on the old manifold,i had to cut it down,then modify it to fit, i also bead blasted it,then repainted it and repolished it. there was a lot of corrosion from the fire extinguisher.
ok the part that holds the fittings is now permanently tig welded to the support bar,i did that then polished it in preparation for purple. also took off the breather i'm no longer using,and removed some other excess junk.
here's the gravity seperator for the pcv system. the drain has to be changed to a manual shutoff,because of it being under vaccume.
Last edited by lostforawhile; 01-30-2009 at 08:25 PM.
It that a fuel pressure regulator? What's with the thingy attached to it with the wire going to it? Looks like a pressure switch??
(confused) what am i looking at?
...If you're ever confused about anything in life... it probably has something to do with money$...
thats some technical looking stuff in that engine bay
fuel pressure regulator it's been on the car for years,i just had to move it and modify the brackets to fit somewhere else. the SU's run at about 1.5 to 2 psi, i originally put the regulator in a long time ago in preparation for a webber setup. it's a special low pressure holley regulator. the thing on the end is the sender for the fuel pressure gauge, thats been in the car for years too,but i moved it from a door pod to the radio blankout plate. even the factory carb seemed to benefit from regulated fuel pressure. better for your needle and seats too.
here's the gauge,it's a norskog, had it about 5 years i believe. i had to special order it with green illumination
one of my future projects to to replace the dummy alternator with a small eaton supercharger, they run them on a lot of mini coopers and other brittish cars with SU's. since these respond directly to the amount of air going through the carb, and the fuel bowls and vents are external, they are very simple to set up for forced induction. they've been running them blown since the 60's. there is a huge amount of knowledge available on running boost with small engines and SU type carbs. the main thing is setting maximum boost at or close to redline, they don't have lag like a turbo,or all the heat problems, they produce boost anytime the engine is running in proportion to engine rpm. you have parasitic drag, but the extra power overcomes that
Last edited by lostforawhile; 01-31-2009 at 05:41 AM.
the pcv system and filter is almost in
i'll go out in a bit and get a better picture
now you're sproken my lan-guage
here's the pcv valve, not sure if you can see it, it's right in the middle of the balance tube between the carbs. there is a 90 degree rubber bend attached to it, then to a barbed fitting which is screwed into the aluminum fitting attached to the center fuel distributor support. not sure if you can see the brackets clearly.
and the seperator.
ran across this on a british car parts site,they aren't even sure what it is but god i hope they still have it, this would be the air cleaner problem solved.
ok the oil pressure line is in, the piece at the very bottom screwed into the filter adaptor, is the piece that changes it from 1/8 bsp, which are the filter base threads,to 1/8 npt,which are standard pipe threads. it has male 1/8 bsp on one end,and female 1/8 npt on the other. this is what you need to correctly attach a pressure gauge or anything to that port. i couldn't just use a 90 degree 1/8 npt to -4 adaptor,it would have hit the block screwing it in, so i had to use an angle adaptor with pipe threads, then screw the AN adaptor into it. so three pieces instead of two. you can alsos see the back of the gravity seperator.
problems problems problems, there isn't enough depth for the vaccume switch with the three hoses,just broke it, and there isn't enough to screw in the temp sender. I think i'll take a hex head pipe plug and drill and tap it for the temp sender,then use that as a spacer and screw it into where the vaccume switch would have gone. then i have to figure out where to mount the vaccume switch. anyone got one around? the three hose one.
Damn that's nuts. Looks awesome though!
88 LX-i coupe auto (241K DD), 88 LX-i coupe 5-speed, 89 SE-i coupe auto.
CARDONE SUCKS.
right now it's just a matter of how many times it has to come back off lol, there are always 50 things that have to be changed in a project like this one. just ran into a major one with the vaccume switcheds but i think i have it figured out.
sure looks technical under there lol
looks like its off an mg b gt or something with a bmc b series motorran across this on a british car parts site,they aren't even sure what it is but god i hope they still have it, this would be the air cleaner problem solved.
it's too short between centers but if it's cheap enough i might cut out the center and fabricate something out of it.
more plumbing done, now you can see why i need to move the filter, well one of the reasons, mainly the plate for the throttle return springs sits right behind it. the pcv system is all in,other then the modifications to the pan to hook it up. and one coolant line, i ran out of 90 degree ends.
i pulled that part off today........
88 DX hatch.
just a question... why are you running high end hose on a pcv system? theres hardly and presure in there unless your like boosting 20+ psi
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