first honda with SU's?

[lostforawhile]

just a question... why are you running high end hose on a pcv system? theres hardly and presure in there unless your like boosting 20+ psi

because i happened to have the hoses and fittings off of a turbine that we took apart a while back, they look nice, plus i can get rid of leaky pcv hoses and i need to run them over to the gravity seperator, these hoses had turbine engine mineral oil sitting in them, which stinks and weakens the hose for pressure,but fine for vaccume. i've been collecting this stuff from discontinued projects and stuff that gets trashed when we've done plant cleanups for years, have drawers of it.

[labeledsk8r]

because i happened to have the hoses and fittings off of a turbine that we took apart a while back, they look nice, plus i can get rid of leaky pcv hoses and i need to run them over to the gravity seperator, these hose had turbine engine mineral oil sitting in them, which stinks and weakens the hose for pressure,but fine for vaccume.

just askin, i knew you had the AN fittings just was wondering on the hose, figured normal rubber woulda suficed but you cant keep anything normal looking can ya

[lostforawhile]

just askin, i knew you had the AN fittings just was wondering on the hose, figured normal rubber woulda suficed but you cant keep anything normal looking can ya

well i had to change the box to threaded stuff anyway,because i had to turn the line sideways to run to the seperator. also i'm going to put a pickup at each end of an oil pan and get rid of the pickup where it is now, should work better, and will fix the forever hose leak between the bottom of the box and the pan. everything has to be moved around for clearance for the manifold.

[lostforawhile]

i also have a tube with 1/4 inch thick walls that is welded through the box and threaded, it has bypass coolant that runs through it. if the box always stays nice and hot it will work better. better vaporization.

[lostforawhile]

there's the top line going to the pcv valve, the valve is in the balance tube in the center.

[lostforawhile]

OK this gets interesting now, these SU's are the tuna can ones,that were never sold in the US,so no parts are available, but the datsun Z car carb internals will swap in. the only thing i need to do is find an early Z with a set,and get the float bowl covers, the needles and seats are not available for this set, but the datsun float bowl covers will swap on, then i just have to order ordinary Z car needles and seats. I think he has an old 240 in the yard here time to go look tomorrow.

[lostforawhile]

got the how to build and power tune Su carburators book today, some people seem to think these carbs are too small, but they are 38mm , thats like having a 38/38 webber,but without the airflow restriction of the choke horn and so on. I think the slightly smaller carbs are better for the street anyway,and driveability. i'm looking to see how much air each of these carbs can flow, but i know it's a lot more then the factory can can flow,plus since there are two,they are in a better location for fuel distribution. having one carb for two cylinders is always more efficient then one central located carb with runners that aren't the same length for each port.

[lostforawhile]

got the alternator bracket all primed and painted, I had blasted it before, i'll pull the power steering pump out tomorrow and see how everything fits as far as the alternator itself.

[lostforawhile]

here's one i took last night, I had put one of the velocity stacks on to see how it looked. you can also see the plate i had made for the throttle return springs, normally they go to the heat shield, but it's not needed in my application, since the exaust is nowhere near the intake. there's a video somewhere of making those velocity stacks, i couldn't justify the cost of ones already made. the really tall turned ones aren't that nesecesary for the street, they are mostly for sustained high rpms in racing applications, most people install them for looks. you really just need stub stacks to improve the airflow into the engine

[bobafett]

sooo busy! looking forward to seeing it done and how it works out though...

[lostforawhile]

manifold is back on again, it's just a matter of adding one line, then something else doesn't fit anymore, when i'm all done i'll take detailed pictures of all the plumbing and fittings and angles, this way it can all go back together a lot eaisier later on.

[lostforawhile]

oki put together the piece that will hold the oil filter adaptor,this is the part that actually attaches to the filter, the other part screws on to the back of the block. part isn't polished or anything yet,just test fitted, used the old air jet controller bracket as part of it. The filter has to be moved because the throttle spring return plate prevents the filter from being unscrewed. It will be a lot eaisier to plumb the oil cooler also.

you can see how close tolerances are, I used a standard aeroquip pipe thread coupler with a hex to attach this piece with a sensor, but it's too long to screw on the coolant line, have to go to a steel short pipe nipple to gain the extra 1/4 of clearance.
on the good side, switching the float bowl tops to the Z car ones, almost cleared up the clearance problem with the master cyl. I'm going to just grind off the blob of metal on it's side, none of the others have it,so it must be extra casting material.

[lostforawhile]

all of the extra wiring junk won't be needed, the alternator will be at the front, so it will have the wires for the plug,and a four gauge power wire,they will run across the radiator support in their own harness. the only wire that needs to run across the back of the engine,will be the temp sensor wire, the temp sender screws into the water passage at the bottom of the manifold. the oil pressure wire goes up into the cowl where the switch is located.

[lostforawhile]

haven't updated this thread for a while, it's scattered in different threads, I'll try to put them all under links here. I'm thinking of starting a tripod page just for the carbs,a lot of pictures quit functioning back when image station went out. anyway a couple of new ones, just finished the piece that ties the vacuum lines together for the brake booster. I will get a better picture of the bracket holding it later. this brings the braided line from the bottom of the firewall up, this line ties the vacuum storage canister in the car into the system, brings the vacuum line from the brake booster check valve on the manifold over, and will tie the booster into it. I will probably change the barbed fitting to an AN adapter and run hard line closer to the booster. I can change it to rubber hose for the short run into the booster itself. I think I'm going to have to change the adel clamps holding the two lines together, it doesn't give me enough play in the lines to allow for engine movement.

[Tdurr]

all i gotta say it, it would suck to have to pull that motor.

[lostforawhile]

I can actually remove the lines faster then rubber hoses and hose clamps, and each one has a specific location.

[A18A]

[MessyHonda]

yeah i hope it runs good after all the hose upgrade

[Hauntd ca3]

all those lines make it look fairly complicated but i'm looking forward to seeing how this runs.

[lostforawhile]

all those lines make it look fairly complicated but i'm looking forward to seeing how this runs.

I am too but it's mostly a money thing right now, it will eventually be done. carbs should work well,they are a good match to this size engine. I also need to get the odyssey battery, the oil thermostat, carbs overhauled, new tires etc etc. I think If the economy hadn't tanked and I wouldn't have kept getting laid off it would have been done a long time ago. Looks like the place might close now. the setup really isn't that complicated, it just looks that way because you are looking at a number of different systems. You have the fuel system which is pretty straightforward, fuel block to regulator to fuel block over carbs and to each carb. vent system, I used the canister again, no point in wasting gas letting it evaporate. pcv system, just like original other then adding a catch can, I changed it all to braided to stop leaks. cooling system changed most of the hoses to braided, oil system, moved the filter out of necessity, the carb return springs have to occupy the same place as the filter. It also has the cooler which I need a thermostat for to complete the circuit. there's a line going to the firewall which is the oil pressure line, it goes into a block in the cowl, this block has the warning switch and a line that feeds the gauge. lots of hidden plumbing in there. the ones I did yesterday are manifold vacuum for the brake booster ,ties to a storage tank inside of the car.

[guaynabo89]

looks interesting lost.

definately want to see how that thing starts up.


If all else fails and you need money you can sell all those fittings and make a couple hundread bucks.

[lostforawhile]

looks interesting lost.

definately want to see how that thing starts up.


If all else fails and you need money you can sell all those fittings and make a couple hundread bucks.

I have a lot of oddball ones i will eventually sell, but I was lucky enough to be given a lot of these, the hoses go stale as far as the FAA is concerned, so they can't be used on the airplanes, not a thing wrong with them though. will probably last another 20 years easy.

[lostforawhile]

well here is the piece that goes right near the brake booster, the rubber hoes from the booster ties in here, this ties to the other piece i made with stainless hard line. square part is machined and the round part is Tig welded in.

[lostforawhile]

Ok that piece is in, the clear air hose going to the booster is for mockup, anyone know where to get the original cloth covered vacuum hose stuff? All the modern rubber hoses look like crap.

[lostforawhile]

at least thats what roodoo named em, of course those who are following the SU project remember they didn't clear the brake booster, Well one went to Roodoo, the other was just sent to Texas to a member of the HAMB, it's going to be pinstriped and sent to another member ,who was burned over 70 percent of his body, he's ipinstriping several other panels too. They are all going in his hospital room to cheer this guy up. Horrible accident with a gas can. When he gets it striped i'll post pictures. It was sitting on my shelf, and I heard he was going to do some panels, so I offered to send it. quite a story behind those air cleaners. Of course I made some more just as unusual, I also sent the prototype for the ones I have now, the one i used to design the tooling. I stripped the paint first, due to it being scratched, and painted it flat black first. boy that wrinkle paint is hard to remove, bead blaster wouldn't even touch it.