pickel fork bolt will not come out. I need to replace the cv shaft and cant get that biochoff. any ideas? And yes i have read the how to.
pickel fork bolt will not come out. I need to replace the cv shaft and cant get that bioch
Last edited by fogged; 02-10-2009 at 09:56 AM.
Remeber boys and girls Coupes rule, Hatchies drule, and 4 doors are for mothers..........
take the nut off??
hey try heat and impact on the side it a little
also put the nut on a few threads so you can tap it but not too hard as to damage any threads, at the same time hit it on the side to give it a little shock thearpy.
Also you can try impacting the bolt left and right not just left to loosen it, (after the nut is off of course)
I put heat to it and tried my impact gun and it wont give.
Remeber boys and girls Coupes rule, Hatchies drule, and 4 doors are for mothers..........
You ll have to grind it out(bolt) and remove the LCA and fix the mess. Maybe a air hammer would do the job in car but the rubber bushing takes all the shock out of it. Any way its meatball surgery.
On the quick I have seen online LCA with the bushings for like 60$ or under.
wp
1988 Lxi owner since August 1995
336k miles running strong!
Now running E85.
Oldblueaccord <<< MY YOUTUBE PAGE!
never thought of the bushing eating up all the impact. Ill have to grind it out. I have to have the car on the road in the am.
Remeber boys and girls Coupes rule, Hatchies drule, and 4 doors are for mothers..........
Yeah its like getting a bolt out of a bushing in a leaf spring its hopeless. You can sledge hammer it all day but the spring/bushing takes all the shock. Fire is your friend in that one.
wp
1988 Lxi owner since August 1995
336k miles running strong!
Now running E85.
Oldblueaccord <<< MY YOUTUBE PAGE!
yeah i had planed to do the UCA, LCA, and CV shaft today. I got the driver side done in under an hour. The passenger side is giving me hell. When this is done the whole front end is new.
Remeber boys and girls Coupes rule, Hatchies drule, and 4 doors are for mothers..........
It isn't going to unscrew out of the sleeve with the impact, the impact is just to get it lose. The bolt itself is a jam pin sort of, it has teeth that get corroded. It is supposed to pull out yes but not unscrew out.
When you install the new bolt, put a small layer of anti-seize on it. I do that every time I take it apart and I have not had it stuck yet.
Sam
1989 Accord LX: Sold with 208k-now somewhere around 230k with new owner
Current:
2014 Elantra Sport 6MT
2000 Montero Sport 4x4 (beater, trail rig)
In the shop manual it says to grease that bolt before assembly.
You might be able to push it out with a puller or one of those balljoint removers if you can find a way to position it.
Originally Posted by Justanothermike
my A20 is not SLOW. ur A20 is slow.
It's a pain when they seize up like that. I had the same problem and ended up using a Air Chisel, Grinder, and a Sawzall to get the bolt out.
Just go slow and take your time, I got pissed and messed up my lower arm when I did mine
Along with the previous tips, lots of swearing helps as well
I've noticed the opposite. It is very effective to sweet talk a bolt outOriginally Posted by cubert
Along with the previous tips, lots of swearing helps as well
tough loveI've noticed the opposite. It is very effective to sweet talk a bolt out
First off thanx for all the tips!
I knew that it didnt unscrew, I was in hope that my impact gun would break it loose. Then I could slide it out. That was a lost hope. I ended up cutting the bolt out so I could drop the arm. Then I Used my puller to push the bolt out and (not wanted)the whole bushing assembly.
After getting this done and then new parts everything put back together. It took a total of 4 hours. Go my team.
Moral of it all. Do the work yourself. I had a shop do it last time, and it was rusted together. Thanx alot.
Last edited by fogged; 02-11-2009 at 06:18 PM.
Remeber boys and girls Coupes rule, Hatchies drule, and 4 doors are for mothers..........
SHIT! I saw this too late. I, much like everyone else here, had the same problems with mine.
What I ended up doing is something that seems all sorts of wrong, but it's always worked for me.
If the nut comes off the bolt, but the bolt is seized, here's the deal...
Loosen the nut, but don't take it off. Grab the biggest, most baddest-ass breaker bar you got, and give the head of the bolt a crank. The GOAL is to snap the head off the bolt (works everytime). Hose the decapitated bolt down with PB blaster, as well as the end of the bolt (nut-side).
Now grab a deep socket, a breaker bar, and a handfull of thick steel washers (that can fit over the end of the bolt). Take the nut off, put on a few washers (but make sure you have enough bolt left to be able to fully thread the nut so the bolt is at least flush with the end of the nut), then start cranking away at it. Tighten that fukr down, and keep cranking.
What you're actually doing is pulling the bolt out of the bushing, and the fork is keeping the bushing from pulling out. Keep a close eye on how many turns you're getting out of it because you don't want to bottom out on the end of the threaded portion of the bolt.
When you get enough turns out of it, back the nut off, add more washers, then get back on cranking. After 3-5 times of backing it off and adding more washers, that shitty bolt will walk all the way out. Then just hit up Honda for a new bolt and nut.
Like russian says, glob that bastard up with never-seize and from now on it'll be a breeze to remove.
I know it's late news, but hopefully someone will search and find this thread before they start cutting, burning, etc.
-Mark D.
^^sticky that info!
working on another diagram now. my last one fell into the black hole formerly known as imagestation.
-Mark D.
thats what I said it could save us all time and cash. I love the shit out of thehow to's. Im glad to see that your going to do a wright up on this.
Remeber boys and girls Coupes rule, Hatchies drule, and 4 doors are for mothers..........
markmdz89hatch, you are da man. That's pure genius. I screwed with mine for hours trying not to mess up the fork or bushing before I finally got it out. This would have taken 5 minutes and 4 bucks.
If I remember right. I had the same problem & just busted loose the upper ball joint & was able to pull the steering knuckle out of the way just enough to get the shaft out of the transaxle & remove the cv axle. It's been a while, but also I think I had busted loose the lower ball joint. One side seemed to work without busting loose the lower ball joint, but the other side didn't have enough clearance. Been a while, but it worked. sticky that! lol
Last edited by 88Accord-DX; 11-01-2009 at 08:21 PM.
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Unless you disassembled the axle, you removed the fork bolt.
Good work Mark, I can't believe I didn't think of that! I guess that's just how it goes when spoiled with air tools. Awesome!
88 LX-i coupe auto (241K DD), 88 LX-i coupe 5-speed, 89 SE-i coupe auto.
CARDONE SUCKS.
Whatever dude, sometimes you have to think outside the box & do what it takes. I did it & it worked...
Take it or leave it, you have pull the steering knuckle out of the way & the shaft will come out. Like I said, one side has enough clearance, but the other seemed like it doesn't, been a long phucking time since I done it. Been there done that.
Last edited by 88Accord-DX; 11-01-2009 at 09:01 PM.
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Let's have a write up then.
I've removed quite a few axles on these cars and finally decided it is easier and less costly to replace the outer boot and joint instead. If you've found a way to fit a 3 1/2" outer joint through a 2 1/2" hole, enlighten us.
88 LX-i coupe auto (241K DD), 88 LX-i coupe 5-speed, 89 SE-i coupe auto.
CARDONE SUCKS.
Let me re-phrase that, the steering knuckle will need to be pulled, which requires removing the outer tie tod end, the lower ball joint & upper ball joint. Then the CV axle will come out.
I was able to pull one side out without pulling the steering knuckle it seems, first by breaking loose the upper ball joint. You have to pull the steering knuckle back to get it to come out of the transaxle .. Then I was able to slide the axle back the other way. After that I then pulled the CV axle out of the steering knuckle. I then pulled the steering knuckle back to get the axle to slide going outward without taking the steering knuckle loose from the lower ball joint. It was a tight fit, but seemed to work for me. Like I said, it's been a while, but that is all I can remember. If that don't work, you will have to pull the lower ball joint out & outer tie rod end to remove the steering knuckle to slide the CV axle out.
Hope that makes some kind of sense, cause it's late with this time change.
Last edited by 88Accord-DX; 11-01-2009 at 09:42 PM. Reason: wording
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