pickel fork

[markmdz89hatch]

ok guys, I'm sorry I'm almost a year late on the promise of this little diagram, but here you go:



Fig.1:
Stock setup, fully assembled

Fig.2:
Bolt head snapped off, nut removed, 3 washers added, nut replaced

Fig.3:
Nut has been tightened down and bolt is starting to pull through (do not tighten to the end of the threaded section of the bolt)

Fig.4:
Nut removed, lots more washers added, and nut tightened again. Bolt is continuing to pull through the assembly.

Not pictured:
Remove nut again, add more washers, and continue to tighten until the bolt pulls completely through. Then get a new bolt (nut should also be replaced) and slop the inside of the busing with never-seize. Also liberally coat new bolt with never-seize before re-assembling.


Any questions?

[import racer]

I never have any luck with the fork bolt so i just take the axle apart at the inner joint.Then do the same for the new axle.

[Bass Man]

I've never had an issue with mine. I guess it's the Anti-rust that Oregon puts out. lol

I couldn't get an axle through the wish-bone without taking that bolt out.

[markmdz89hatch]

I never have any luck with the fork bolt so i just take the axle apart at the inner joint.Then do the same for the new axle.

The only trouble with this is that the bolt is still seized up in the bushing. That bolt needs to be able to float freely inside the bushing sleeve to allow the control arm to do what it's supposed to do. If it's seized up the bushing will actually twist and eventually fail much faster than if it was working properly. ...but sadly most of us are the same boat as you.

I've never had an issue with mine. I guess it's the Anti-rust that Oregon puts out. lol

I couldn't get an axle through the wish-bone without taking that bolt out.

Yeah it won't fit through, but like importracer said, you can disassemble the axle c/v end and pull it through that way.

[LX-incredible]

The only trouble with this is that the bolt is still seized up in the bushing. That bolt needs to be able to float freely inside the bushing sleeve to allow the control arm to do what it's supposed to do. If it's seized up the bushing will actually twist and eventually fail much faster than if it was working properly. ...but sadly most of us are the same boat as you.

I have to disagree. The inner sleeve of the bushing remains stationary. All movement is from the twisting of the rubber. That's why you're supposed to torque the LCA bolts with the car on the ground, somewhat in the center of the suspension travel. With poly bushings the bushing pivots on the inner sleeve. The inner sleeve and bolt shouldn't move on either after being torqued.

Excellent diagram, It'll be a lot easier than trying to explain to someone how to cut and burn that bitch out of there

[carotman]

I'll have to try this on my Civic's rear struts. I'm afraid to do this since it's my daily driver and might leave me stranded hehe.

[stat1K]

i've never had one stuck like broken but i have had it where it didn't want to pull out, i use a bolt slightly smaller and put it on the other end then tap it out with a 3lb sledge... i guess if it's corroded into the bushing this may not work but if it's just broken and you're having trouble pulling it out i wouldn't see why it wouldn't work?

as for pulling the axle when the fork is on, yeah that doesn't work, not even on my civic...

oh and can we change the name of this thread after almost a year since it's still called pickle fork and that is clearly not right? lol...