ummmm intresting. SO jumping the plug itself after you unplug it. My egr blocked off and pluged on the vacum port.
Ill have to try this. no more cel would be nice as hell. so just run a wire from one end to other thats its? Dont have to be some kind of resistor or something?
200+ ALL MOTOR LS VTEC
If you jump the two outside wires on the EGR plug, the code will go away, but you can't start the car (or at least I can't). I tried basically the same thing with a few different resistors yesterday after measuring the resistance across that circuit but so far nothing has worked. I can start the car but the code comes back.
The problem is that the EGR isn't a static if this, then that system; it accepts inputs from a couple different sensors and decides what to do based on more than one value. What I'm trying to do is figure out where the EGR is with the engine off (probably wide open), then just blocking off all input to the valve (disconnecting it) and holding that value of resistance permanently so the car just doesn't think it has to make any adjustments. The CEL only comes on when the valve decides it's time to change something.
I think your engine is a little different than mine since I used your vacuum box pictures a lot (thanks, by the way) and most of my lines weren't quite the same as yours. Turabaka was able to block his shit off without causing a CEL so maybe the 88-89s are trickier than the older/carbed engines. Your shirt + stickers shipped out btw.
carb cars dont get a cel... and what i would do is wire thos egr wires up to a switch inside the car so u can switch it off to start it then switch it back on after u start it to turn the cel off ^_^
1988 Honda Accord LX-i Coupe 123k miles.
Is there anything else you need besides the icm and map if you automatic ,not 5-speed.
I can't think of anything the transmission would need vacuum for, but I don't know for sure. If you want to find out, just go unplug everything you can and try driving up the block. Did you find anything under your hood that wasn't already mentioned in this thread?
Well I took the black box out and hooked up the way that was posted.It seems to run fine with no codes.Fired right up too so i think everything is ok.can't drive the car yet as its got no rear brakes.Still workibg on this car so i'll have to let you know how it works when it's on the road.
That would kinda be a cool inexpensive anti-theft system!Originally Posted by Civic Accord Honda
NEVER argue with an idiot! They'll drag you down to the're level and beat you with experience!
hell yeah, like use the ac button or defrost button or some random factory button that is no longer in use
1988 Honda Accord LX-i Coupe 123k miles.
Was this ever answered for you? I think what your talking about is the device that opens the second set of butterflies in the intake. 88-89 had this, 86-87 did not. i'm not sure what exactly actuates this device as the engine, trans, and anything useful are no longer in the 88 as it has become my organ donor to my 86 ha ha ha
NEVER argue with an idiot! They'll drag you down to the're level and beat you with experience!
that would be really cool too but all my buttons still work except for the damn defrost but i do need to get that fixed for this winter. I was thinking like a momentary push button that you would hold down while cranking and once it started you release it. no permanent off/on thing i dunno. but running it to a button like you said would be cool as phuck! i've seen peope do that to where they couldn't start the car unless their brights were on.
NEVER argue with an idiot! They'll drag you down to the're level and beat you with experience!
I think I've figured out a way to fix it, but it involves a lot more BS than it should. The stupid thing is a potentiometer so there's no simple way to do it.
SO i have my EGR hooked up, no vac to it and its not plugged in and no codes at all.*knock on wood*
am i doing it right?
So should the actuator be left closed or held open.
Good question, when ever i get around to it, im making some block off plates. so it wont matter to me.
Umm...well i would think that the plug wires are the same. Total of 4 correct?...so which wires do i jump. O no problem im not that very good at how tos but i try lol
200+ ALL MOTOR LS VTEC
I only have three wires: ground, and two hot. I have a spreadsheet of resistances and voltages when the engine's off/running/warmed up but none of it's really helpful. I talked to AccordB20A and he recommended I get an A20A4 ECU, which is what I plan to do.
But I'm retarded, so if you think you can figure it out by all means please give it a shot.
ummmm thats off a 88/89? correct? with the 2seconderys? im asking since i have one of those...if so...
200+ ALL MOTOR LS VTEC
88 LX-i
what would the ecu say?
200+ ALL MOTOR LS VTEC
What, mine or one from an A4? Mine's doing the code 12 shit atm.
ok so if u did itbs and b20a wat should i do with it
rhd restoration 2nd gen prelude
With that setup you'd need to run new management like Crome or Hondata so you could just clear the ECU code from there I believe. Otherwise it'd be the same process.
kool cause i just dont know wat i need for sensors for my b16 itb b20a
rhd restoration 2nd gen prelude
can i get a clear pic of the icm .
do u think i still need the icm and map sensor with my setup.
rhd restoration 2nd gen prelude
Im pretty sure those are mandatory sensors to run FI. My 91 f150 had to have those two sensors to run, not much else.
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