well i'm glad that my curiosity solved the problem of the vacuum box for the PGM-FI motors...much thanks to those who contributed![]()
well i'm glad that my curiosity solved the problem of the vacuum box for the PGM-FI motors...much thanks to those who contributed![]()
1987 Honda Accord LX-i (A20A3) (179k)
79-whp, 103-wtq (Performance Solutions)
"...if you type, 'Google' into Google you'll break the internet..."
yeah, i think the warmest it has gotten where i'm at is maybe 50-somethin'...and that was for one day.
1987 Honda Accord LX-i (A20A3) (179k)
79-whp, 103-wtq (Performance Solutions)
"...if you type, 'Google' into Google you'll break the internet..."
Can has problem:
This is where I'm at. Car runs fine, but I get a CEL a couple minutes after it warms up. Nothing happens, car still runs normal, but I get a code 12 (EGR). I have the port on the EGR valve plugged. Do I need to plug something back in or will it keep doing this until I block the EGR off?
I'm confused mine doesn't have any sensor on the thermostat housing.does anyone have any better pics,these are a little hard to follow.whitch is the better way to do this.
These?
I did this yesterday and had Rendon and 89sei89dx's pictures all printed out, but honestly all I could get from them was theory. Rendon's walkthrough was for an 86 so my lines were all numbered differently, stuff was in different places etc. The best way, in my opinion, to go about this is to:
1) Take tons of pictures of the stock setup, make sure you know how to put everything back if you mess up
2) Unplug everything
3) Take the black box completely out of the car
4) Remove all the old lines including the hard lines by the injectors
5) Plug all of the open ports on the IM, EGR, and wherever else
6) Put the ICM and MAP sensor back in and run all-new lines
I spent like two hours just poking around trying to figure out the safest way to do it, but after I got impatient and just started ripping stuff out it went pretty easily.
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Do you have any pics of yours,mine's an 88.
What about vacumn thing on drivers side of intake with the arm on it.where do that get vacumn from or doesn't it need to be hooked up.
Not sure what arm you're referring to, but here's a map of what I have now:
Also, for posterity:
I fixed this by jumping the two outside wires on the EGR plug (one hot wire and the ground). The car no longer throws a code and the light has stayed off so far. Thanks to turabaka for the idea.
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glad the EGR thing worked out for ya.![]()
Lostforawhile:we have to pick on him he's CAH he spray painted himself into this corner with the accord.
What about the thing by the fpr,the vacumn went to a steel line whitch is no longer there.where does it go to.
The vacumn pull off on the end of intake,i think it opens a flap in the intake.
its wierd when you unplug the egr the car wont start. idk if is part of the circiut or something....
200+ ALL MOTOR LS VTEC
mine started without it :S
1988 Honda Accord LX-i Coupe 123k miles.
i have my egr unplugged and it starts fine if its cold. but hot starts take a few seconds(like 7-8 secs of cranking)
Joay is right about going about this tho. I pulled everything out, then ran what i needed.
I need to go back over everything and hide the lines better. Ill make a diagram showing how everything is hooked up soon.
I can get it to start without the EGR plugged in, but it trips the CEL. The problem is that if I jump the wires on the plug (5V when the car's on and/or running) the CEL goes away but it won't start. I did some research and apparently most people just block the EGR off, then put the valve back on top of the plate and run the vacuum and plug.
There is vacumn on the egr?didn't see any hose going to it.
Anyone know what the little vacumn can on the firewall is for?It's right next to the charcoal canister.
Last edited by import racer; 06-10-2009 at 05:58 PM.
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