lol i got plenty of zinc oxides and phosphates sitting in the locker in my lab lol
lol i got plenty of zinc oxides and phosphates sitting in the locker in my lab lol
I hate to revive an old thread, but this is good stuff, & seems extremely important!
I read thru this and as best I can figure the information is ambiguous.
To worry or not to worry?? To keep dumping in the same ol' same ol', or scramble for a better brand? Is a "better" brand even a possibility now?
I am strongly inclined to agree with those who say this may be a ploy to remove our old cars from the map, regardless if purposefully or inadvertantly. From what I see here, by now most if not all commercial oils are without this zinc phospate additive.
SOOOOO.......
Does it matter if I keep using a Hi-Mi semi-synthetic, like Castrol GTX 75K+ or Valvoline 75K+ if I use the zinc additive?
What zinc additives are commercially available besides the ZDDPlus linked to herein? Anything? I'll buy the shit by the truckloads if that's what it takes, and fuck Detroit.
My '82 Lude and '89 Accord would appreciate the knowledge, as I suspect my '93 Accord would as well.
Also, does this apply to something newer, say, a '00 VW Jetta 2.0L, or a '99 Dakota Magnum V6 ?
The zync and phosphorus thing really only applies to cars with flat tappet cams or pushrods. So newer cars shouldn't be affected. Just the older stuff.Originally Posted by automan9482
As far as additives I'm using redline's engine oil break in additive. There's a few other companies that make break in additives that are basically just a zinc and phosphorus additive. Lucas, and Redline both make one, and there's a few others, but I can't remember who.
Lostforawhile:we have to pick on him he's CAH he spray painted himself into this corner with the accord.
Thanks for the feedback turabaka!
So I should only be concerned about oil additives for the MK1 'Lude if I read that right?
Would it hurt to add this to OTC oils for the ' 89 & '93 Accord or does it not apply? (Are they flat tappet design or no?)
89 is a 3gee so yes you should. I have no idea for the 93. What style rockers do they have?
Lostforawhile:we have to pick on him he's CAH he spray painted himself into this corner with the accord.
I don't know exactly for the '93, but I assume if it's a hydraulic design, then it should be ok.
It seems that they want us out.
They could not get us with "cash for clunkers"... too good fuel economy. Detroit's gas-guzzler dinosaurs are going (not very old ones because they may not last that long)
Many people don't know about this and their engines will be ruined before their time is due. In fact, they have been reducing phosphor for a while so maybe a few have already gone to the crusher because of this.
I'll keep using Rotella T for the accord and maybe extend it to my other clunkers as well. Its main use is for diesel engines but it is oriented to be a "fleet engine oil" so it works with gasoline engines as well (API SL).
If I move to a colder climate (a possibility next year) I'll shift to the synthetic version that is 5w40.
Go the additives route or get a different oil if you want the valvetrain to last. Shell has a FAQ (link below); I found it useful.
I hate when people is mislead in such ways. A label warning customers about this should be mandatory... our cars may be 'clunkers" but it's nobody's business right?
EPA: go f... y...self!
http://www.shell.com/home/PlainPageS...ourexpert.html
If it ain't broke... I fix it!
valvoline makes a racing oil that is really high on zince and something esle...my buddy uses it....even has a bright sticker saying high zince but its not full syth. just SAE racing oil......only 4.85 a qt....something im considering
200+ ALL MOTOR LS VTEC
And I was using Rotella T (15w40). The lower phosphor content applies to the synthetic too? ... any idea how well the other diesel/gas oils (Castrol, Mobil) perform in the additives department? I just want to keep it simple; I want to keep the car running for as long as possible without having to become a chemist...
Thanks a million for the info.... and wonderful carburetor setup! I have not seen a SU-type carburetor since my days of tinkering with a Hillman Avenger...
If it ain't broke... I fix it!
still using royal purple...
I think you guys are over reacting a little. I talked to the guy at the local hot rod shop here, who has personal experience with trashing flat tappet cams from lack of zinc additives (they trashed a few). He said that the zinc additives are only an issue during initial break in. After the cam is worn in you can use regular oil and it will be fine.
C|
lol thats what i figured bro....thanks for putting that out...i didnt want to say suck a thing then start a war up in this bitch LOL.....initial break in and thats it....
200+ ALL MOTOR LS VTEC
no wars don't worry just passing on the info from the hot rod side where they are seeing physical damage from the lack of the additive. flat tappets are flat tappets whether in an old hot rod or an old japanese car,they work the same way and have the same problems. Still going to try the Brad Penn oil just because the old Kendall was great stuff, same thing under a different name. like I said earlier, this post is not the sky is falling, it's to stay informed on the deal with the oil, car guys always adapt, and that's what this is about.
Last edited by lostforawhile; 08-14-2009 at 03:20 PM.
thanks i hope to get it running within the next six months. just got back to working on it again after a couple of years.
I actually just filled my B20A with Shell Rotella 10w-30. The Rotella 15w-40 keeps the inside of my Toyota 22R spotlessly clean.
ICHIBAN!
"Now, even more better!"
That's how we got to talking about it in the first place. They had a bunch of boxes of Brad Penn oil sitting there and I asked about it because I had never heard of it. So the guy starts telling me about ZDDP and how they ruined a few cams until they figured out what was going on. I don't remember what engines they were working on, old Mopar's I think. I told the guy my old Honda had flat tappets and he said I would already know if there was a problem. He said the ones they toasted were gone in minutes.
I know for one thing, if I ever do another A20 rebuild or get a new cam I'm definitely going to pick up some of the BP oil. Just for peace of mind if nothing else.
C|
What about reground cams? I put a regrind in my EK1 when I rebuilt it, and everything is ok using normal oil. Or it seems okay anyways...
Last edited by 2ndGenGuy; 08-14-2009 at 05:48 PM.
Our cars don't use hydraulic lifters on the cam so there's little to worry about. The spring pressures are so light I don't think there would be any problem no matter what you use. Only problem i see is with 15w-40 oils is there thick esp when cold and most people don't let the cars run 20 secs cold before there "off to the races". Almost all your wear on a cars motor is on start up so this can be a longgevity issue.
Majority of newer cars use roller lifters so again any oil will do. its that small amount of people like me that use regular cams with hydrualic lifters (non-rollers) and performance cams with high spring rates that have some concern. Its made me think about going back to a solid cam on my 440 or up to a roller cam setup if I change cams again.
wp
1988 Lxi owner since August 1995
336k miles running strong!
Now running E85.
Oldblueaccord <<< MY YOUTUBE PAGE!
bingo....very good info guys.....im going to start using amosoil or some shit or royal purple....thats good stuff
200+ ALL MOTOR LS VTEC
Rotella T 10w30 is nowhere to be found in GA; I looked for it but only found 15w40 on the shelves. It is OK to use here especially in summer; in winter is a little "heavy" but I let the car idle for a couple of minutes and then start driving without rushing it. Maybe 10w30 is stocked regularly where the weather is cold; I'd like to have the choice on viscosity myself (and not the vendor) though.
One of the reasons for using it is for keeping the engine clean; it was pretty clean inside when I got it. But it leaked oil so badly that it did not have time to produce any residue. I'd like to keep it clean.
Last edited by ecogabriel; 08-15-2009 at 10:43 AM.
If it ain't broke... I fix it!
the difference is that we have higher rpms then a lot of larger displacement engines, it's still a lot of load between the follower and the cam, at higher speeds the oil likes to shear off of that area and you get wear,the zinc stays on the metal and sacrifices itself to protect the surfaces.
So,Zinc Dialkyl Dithio Phosphate is being removed too so called protect the catalytic convertor. But who cares about the valve train? That's disturbing.
Eastwood company sells an oil additive called ZDD Plus a bottle is $10 dollars.
Just more money too be spent the EPA has mandated this crap most likely because among other reasons enviormental issues and like someone else said to ween out the old cars.
Mabey too also,help put money towards the defecit we are facing?
Any fort in a storm, in this case, whatever they can come up with to get a couple extra $ and maybe get you into that brand-new car they've been dying to sell you. I was at a Honda dealer last weekend, and was not impressed. 20 or so Accords, maybe as many Civics, and nothing that got over 33mpg, except the Insight, and not a single stick shift to be had.....very disappointing.
*
Last edited by automan9482; 08-28-2009 at 03:26 AM. Reason: Duplicate post
really they didn't have a single Honda Fit Base?
in our 2008 we get about 35 with mostly city, and about 37 highway. the little l15 is pretty efficient.
as for the oil i've been using the mobil 1 10w30 in my car and it's been good, granted i have a vtec head so maybe that's the cause.
dead white and blue
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