Thanks for that link sk8er. helped alot! it would be $88.xx if i got just the parts from there, no gaskets and wut not...
Thanks for that link sk8er. helped alot! it would be $88.xx if i got just the parts from there, no gaskets and wut not...
Originally Posted by CAH
no prob yeah it gets pricey buying from honda sadly, and i didnt notice that the inner spring wasnt listed i noticed it o nthe digram and posted from there. i thought the inners were the same on both the 3g and lude, thus only needing to order the lude outers? not positive at all about that
do i need the inners + outers from the lude also? I thought you only needed the intake springs?
also
#s 16+17, anyone have a spair intake one laying around? somehow mine broke...
and good headgaskets? name some
w
Update:
And i thought this pic looked cool...
damn bro...that sucks ass. by the time you know it. it well be back on the road
200+ ALL MOTOR LS VTEC
hopefully. I think im gonna be getting the head ported and polished+ a valve job....... hehe then bisi is making valve springs now so im pumped.... this gives me a reason to upgrade...
would it be possible to shave the head too? a little extra hp if it wouldnt be a clearance issue.
whoooaaa
it would, but i dont wanna raise CR cuz i plan on going turbo.
lol. yea, i said a few different words when i first saw it...
so now you need new pistons?
1989 Honda Accord LX-i
B18c1 swap since 7/2011
175whp and 132tq
Redzone tuned
you should of drained the block before removing the head. just makes things easyer .
and what are you going to do about the botom end
1988 Honda Accord LX-i Coupe 123k miles.
nah its good, just gonna make sure that there are no sharp part from the valve smacking the piston.
lol and yes, i forgot to drain the block, i was sick and in a hurry trying to get it done by today so i could sent the head off this week...
bottom end should be fine, i drove it 10miles home and didnt have too much of a problol
no it's not good, the piston has damage now,it's unbalanced, the valve hit the piston,which hammered the wrist pin, which hammered the rod which hammered the bearing, it's fail somewhere in there soon, you never reuse engine parts with physical damage.nah its good, just gonna make sure that there are no sharp part from the valve smacking the piston.
lol and yes, i forgot to drain the block, i was sick and in a hurry trying to get it done by today so i could sent the head off this week...
bottom end should be fine, i drove it 10miles home and didnt have too much of a prob
Hmm true, but im just gonna have to put it on the road to get from point a to point b. Asked a master tech about it before and he said it was fine so yea. ill just deal with it for now. Thanks for the info tho. guess ill start building up parts for good rebuild.
i have a set of pistons for sale hella cheap
a new set
20 over bore? I dont have cash on me atm seeing how i have to get the head up to par
lol.
no as fare as i can tell there stock size
i bought them from ebay thinking they were a .50mm over
turns out that the manufacture the guy got them from stamped them with es1 witch is a pre 3rd gen motor but they use the same piston style just smaller
so there actually es1 pistons at a 50mm over witch puts them at a stock 3rd gen piston lol
so it was marked with a esi but the model number matched that of the a20
i have a spec sheet from the company and a few pics
and im only looking for 50 shipped comes with wrist pins and rings
Last edited by ghettogeddy; 03-09-2009 at 02:29 PM.
damn, thanks for looking out! ill prob end up doing all after market parts on everything tho.
umm lol
they are aftermarket lol
toto pistons
damn ur ninja edit! lol, ill think about that one sir... but still, my motor is bored over 20 so dono if they are the right ones by ur discription
if your already bored then no go lol
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