Today after draining the oil from the pan for an oil change I put the bolt back in and it screwed in just as usual until the washer touched the pan, then it just kept spinning forever. I tried it with a different bolt and the same thing happened. How screwed am I?
you can try and see if you can get a oversize drain plug thats used for stripped threads, or one of those expandable rubber drain plugs. In both cases I'd use it as a temporary fix.Originally Posted by nfs480
My pan was stripped on mine when I first got the car and it was so FUBAR'D that neither one helped.
Yeah, I think I might just replace the oil pan. $137 is pretty painful sounding though.
OEM or aftermarket?Yeah, I think I might just replace the oil pan. $137 is pretty painful sounding though.
I paid around 70.00 for mine a few years ago
They guys that owned my car before me had a rubber stopper in there. Just replace the pan, save yourself the hassle. I just took the one off of my donor car.
OEM from Majestic Honda. BTW, how long would it take and how difficult would it be to replace myself?
took me a few hours when I did it, being that I've never done one before.
just take your time and dont rush thru it and no silicone sealer on the gasket, will cause the gasket to squeeze out. Had to redo mine the next day after I noticed smoke and oil all over the bottom.
Ok, I was reading through the procedure on the autozone website and was wondering how difficult is it to remove the exhaust and crossmember below the oil pan? Remember i'm in MN which means lots of rust and corrosion!
You'll need to bust the exhaust lose at the downpipe & at the first joint which I believe would be at the catalytic converter, just need to replace them gaskets. Also, there is a trick with holding the gasket to the pan, use twisty ties off bread bag & tie it down on all 4 corners. After you get all the bolts started snip them off.
I don't know if you just want the OEM oil pan, but their cheaper off ebay.
http://motors.search.ebay.com/?from=...accord+oil+pan
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I'm assuming by "bust it loose" i'll be removing a few bolts at each end and it should just come off and then I use new gaskets when i rebolt it on at both ends?
Right. The gaskets might be ok to re-use, if they don't split or seperate. Better to just replace them. There is a couple of bolts that hold the exhaust to a bracket on the back of the engine. The bolts at the catalytic converter need to be soaked in PB Baster for a couple of hours, cause more than likely they will break & need to be replaced with new bolts.
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this is not too easy man. it's very straight forward but, not easy.
the exhaust is the first fun part, especially when rust is involved.
then the lower crossmember has to come out. meaning you have to support the engine with a hoist if you want to be safe.
you have to take the clutch cover off(5-speed) , and the bolts on the pan are still hard to get to
Not trying to be a downer, but i'd rather let you know what your getting into.
Just make sure you have a full tool set and a good torque wrench handy
"Weight is relative to power like time is relative to speed"
I really appreciate it. I'm trying to decide whether to do it myself or have my mechanic do it and input like this really helps with that decision.
I've pulled that crossmember out way to many times & the engine was fine, it still has 3 mounts holding the engine up. Never had any worries about the engine falling out.
And yes, it is a pain to do this job. But it is possible with a little patience.
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i say just unbolt the the downpipe from the header and the 2 bolts holding the down pipe on by the oil pan then unhook the rubber hangers to the exhuast and just drop the whole exhuast down(very easy this way) so you dont need to mess with the nasty cat bolts,
just soak the shit out of the header to down pipe bolts with pb blaster before u even try to remove them!!i broke 2 socket extentions trying to get that bitch off
1988 Honda Accord LX-i Coupe 123k miles.
Like everyone else saying unbolt the down pipe.Take if off if its in the way. Remove the idk what its call bar thats from the crossmember accross the tranny and to firewall. Remove Flywheel cover then start to loosen all the pan bolts have a flat head in handly just dont groove the block. Anywho. same as you take it off put it back on. MAKE sure you tighten the bolts to specs. Dont use gasket maker or sealant if so ONLY on the Crank part meaning the u shape area "U::::U". ONLY on the TIPS not the whole U .hope i helped
200+ ALL MOTOR LS VTEC
like rendon said, tighten to specs and silicone only on the U part of the gaskets.
And use twisty ties to hold the gasket in place like 88Accord-DX said.
This is what my gasket looked like after rushing on it and over torquing the bolts
Damn pico. you really tighten those didnt your lol. I over tighten mine but its not to the point where im leaking a shit load. going to get it replace soon thou i have couple of dots on my carboard in my garage every time i park her. So just make SURE. if you dont have a torque wrench get one. 9 Ft-Lbs bro. and tighten then in order here
13-9-5-1-3-7-11
17 15
18 16
14-10-6-2-4-8-12
Theres the order. so 1 then 2 and so on at 9 ft-lbs. K lol
The 17,18 are the left side U parts and the 15,16 are the right side U parts. So left is timing belt and right is tranny. k
200+ ALL MOTOR LS VTEC
That's why these are my two favorite tools...The IR for obvious reasons, but I really hate breaking things by tightening them down too much.
Almost forgot...You NEED a torque wrench...both an inch pound and a foot pound. The calibrated elbow only works under some conditions.
Last edited by mephi; 03-14-2009 at 11:20 PM. Reason: forgot
I worry.
you never know when one of those (or more) things has a crack just waiting for a chance to break free.Considering when i did it i was on the ground with my head/chest under the motor i made dam sure it wasnt moving.
Of course i had a friend descriptively tell me of a dream he had of a car falling on me once and have never been the same under a car.
jack stand, then wood blocks, then jack just a hair under the car to be sure
"Weight is relative to power like time is relative to speed"
the best way to put that gasket on is by getting some permatex gasket adhesive, when the pan is off clean the shit out of it, I mean with solvent,then use the permatex gasket adhesive to glue the gasket to the pan, use some bolts to make sure the stud holes stay lines up. it takes a while to set. this keeps the gasket from shifting while you install it. the adhesive is not an rtv, or a sealer, it's designed to keep the gasket from moving around. also how soon do you need this pan? i'll be putting on a pan i modified soon,so i'll have the stock pan left if you really need it.
I put replacing the oil pan in the "don't fix it unless it's REALLY broke" category. And, if you don't get the gasketing done right, then there's the leaks to have to deal with and the possibility of a do-over.
Isn't there a way to weld a nut or something over the hole to give you some more threads? There has to be a way instead of taking the whole pan off.
it's not that hard to take off, only proper repair is to take it off and weld a bung on there. there are other things you can do, but how important is your oil? if you take your time and do it right,it's not going to leak.
yeah just save up and spend the money on a new one
1989 Honda Accord LX-i
B18c1 swap since 7/2011
175whp and 132tq
Redzone tuned
well if you take the pan off it's not hard to fix off of the car. and a lot cheaper then a replacment. let me know on if you need this pan, it doesn't leak. if you need it i'll have to take the time to pull it off my engine and ship it. i need to get it pulled anyway so i can put my other one on.
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