running a d16 basemap......NO BUENO. you need a gsr basemap son. youll run a bit on the rich side but your choking that poor motor hehe
running a d16 basemap......NO BUENO. you need a gsr basemap son. youll run a bit on the rich side but your choking that poor motor hehe
200+ ALL MOTOR LS VTEC
b18b fuel and ignition maps have been loaded onto the chip so the ecu is pretty much a factory b18b one now so it aint the tune lol, i forgot to look at the afr while it was on the dyno (N)
where they using a wideband. Well if they where tuning im pretty sure.
200+ ALL MOTOR LS VTEC
this was just a dyno run to check power output, AFR was on a screen and not on my paper sadly.
still running the factory tune, one day ill get it tuned properly but ill do that after i have a vtec head, it hauls arse fine as it is (Y)
that is around 80 hp....my A20 had more power!
1989 Honda Accord LX-i
B18c1 swap since 7/2011
175whp and 132tq
Redzone tuned
yeah thats gay but the car definately has more even my mate that drove it said its got to have at least 80KW to be as quick as it is. anyways i got some rear koni yellow adjustable shocks for the back of my civic woop woop pics when i can locate my camera
right, more mods for the civic, today i removed my EF CRX GAB shocks and replaced them, i decided to sell my eg lowering springs, i replaced my suspension with koni yellows.
Since i have a pair of bilsteins for the front of my CA accord i decided to put my CA front Koni shocks into the front of the civic, I used the EF civic shock forks and they fitted mint. they are almost 50mm shorter in the body than stock eg shocks, so instead of using a lowered spring on them i chose the factory (i think) springs EF crx springs. it sacked the front down real nice, fuck all of a guard gap now with my 17s. for the rear i used the eg koni yellows i got, i set them to their lowers circlip level and once again used a stock EF spring, After all that it sits nice and low, and even, ill get some pics in the daylight but heres a good before and after...
after
got some pics of how it sits
goodies for the civic!!
some heavy duty engine mounts
and a rear disc conversion with nolathane trailing arm bushes
total money spent $150, ill post pics when i install.
mount installation done, big improvement, car doesnt want to bunny hop now and it can chirp the wheels instead of making the engine nearly jump out of the bay when you change gear. there is a bit of vibration but hey this aint no cruiser haha.
I still need to replace the cambelt side mount as its fucked also.
i guess its time to do the rear disc install guys.....
its still a civic bud?!
f my mum wasnt buying it, i,d sell you an early 5g Sir
drums
No drums
discs
discs are on, im happy
do work!
Originally Posted by CAH
right last night i installed a swaybar off a dc2, had to change the lower control arms cause the eg4 ones didnt have swaybar holes, took it for another wheel alignment this morning, hoping its going to handle nice now, it appears to be nice to drive in town. havent taken out in the 100k area yet
nice, so what did yah do? Use the money from the spoiler group buy to get the interior replaced and those rims?
1989 Accord Lx-i hatchback (current DD project)
1986 Olds Cutlass 442 clone (never ending project)
3Geez resident body man
Owner of Wreck-less auto body
very nice ! the civic is coming along great
1988 Honda Accord LX-i Coupe 123k miles.
haha never you mind mister, ive sold a car recently so i have some cash and your spoiler will be with you in a bit.
my mate recently wrecked a EG9 and offloaded the bigger front brakes to mee. yay
later on ill upgrade to some h22a prelude brakes but for now these will do, ill put them on later some time and post more pics
Brake upgrade FTW.
do they fit?
1989 Honda Accord LX-i
B18c1 swap since 7/2011
175whp and 132tq
Redzone tuned
hubs will fit right on the car, and later on i can get prelude rotors re-drilled to 4X100 and they work with these hubs.
right i have experienced fail with my civic gearbox, it drove sweet for 1000kms after i stuck it in but it started making noises and the other day it felt like the clutch wasnt disengaging it was hard to get into and out of gear and the engine would nearly stall when you let the clutch out in neutral. also when coating to a stop it felt like the brakes were on. So today i pulled the gearbox again and pulled it apart.
found some metal in the axle seal
and metal in here
lets pull the box apart
you can see here where the gears have been grinding on the casing, so there must be a bearing fucked or something..
and this one too
i have a donor box with a fucked diff i might just swap the diff into it and run with that, this one has been in a crash so it may be damaged from that and thats why it fucked out when i put it in.
ill put the diff and casing back on this box and it should be good to go
Damn man your doing some work LOL. nice
200+ ALL MOTOR LS VTEC
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