My accord just started to idle rough up and down to almost 0rpm or to 250rpm and it dies once i put it into part.
I was wondering if anyone has had this same problem and That you guys could help me out with making my accord run better and have better performance cuz i really dont want to get another car i really love this one.
fuel injected?
it's a dx, so no.Originally Posted by roodoo2
Lostforawhile:we have to pick on him he's CAH he spray painted himself into this corner with the accord.
well dont sell it for that reason. check your carb. jets, vacum leak. clear it up.
200+ ALL MOTOR LS VTEC
How would i check out the carb and how would i kno if it wasnt set right or something wrong with it?
What do you mean jets? How would i check for a vacum leak? And thank you for helping i really appriciate it i would love for my accord to start running better and more efficent. and i have one more ? for some reason i am getting not so good gas milage do you know why or what could be causing this?
I was just looking around underenth the air filter and car and i think the egr valve was unplugged cuz some tube going from what looked like the egr valve to the air filter box was disconnected
Did you plug it back in? That could be a pretty big vacuum leak.
Sam
1989 Accord LX: Sold with 208k-now somewhere around 230k with new owner
Current:
2014 Elantra Sport 6MT
2000 Montero Sport 4x4 (beater, trail rig)
Yeah i plugged it back in but i went and drove it around and it felt a little better and at the idle was smooth but it started to idle rough again and wanted to die out went down 100rpm. idk whats wrong i was thinking about going to the shop but im tight on money and i would rather do it my self.
Not exactly sure on the problem but to check for vacuum leaks get a can of carb cleaner and start spraying it on the vacuum lines with the engine running. If the RPM's go up or it runs better, look closer for vacuum leaks. They are sometimes hard to find.
Sam
1989 Accord LX: Sold with 208k-now somewhere around 230k with new owner
Current:
2014 Elantra Sport 6MT
2000 Montero Sport 4x4 (beater, trail rig)
When i get the carb cleaner you spray it in when if top of the air filter case off? and i think i was wrong about the erg valve i think it is another one.
replace both of your fuel filters. They're dirt cheap and take about 5-10 mins to replace each. Give yourself an hour and a floor jack and you're set.
-Mark D.
I did replace the front one but i dont know how to do the back one i kno its easy and i have the back one too. can you tell me how to cuz i will do that today when i get off work. Should i do an oil and oil filter change to. What about changing out all of the old fluids and putting new fluid in like the breaks and power steering. and when i break i have to push all the way down to the floor is that the master cylinder or just some thing needing to be tightened.
well first you should check the master cylinder and monitor it to see if the level of brake fluid drops over the span of a few days. also you can sort of visually inspect the area around the master cylinder, and the portions of the master cylinder where the cables leave the master cylinder to your brakes for leaks. but if you're not leaking fluid, try bleeding the brakes starting with the back on the side farthest from the master cylinder, and go in a "Z" pattern (i.e rear passenger, rear driver, front passenger, front driver.) fluid changes are always good to do, but it's not going to change the way your car drives unless the car's got NO oil in it and smoking out the ass. but it sounds like you should run some seafoam through that carb, and ask "turabaka" about that, he's done it once before i believe
1987 Honda Accord LX-i (A20A3) (179k)
79-whp, 103-wtq (Performance Solutions)
"...if you type, 'Google' into Google you'll break the internet..."
i just took out my brand new plugs and they are all burnt out the plustar ones fuck pices of shit they are so i went and bought some v-power im about to put them in.
I would try taking the plugs back. I know that we'd more than likely take them back where I work at. Especially on something that expensive.
Lostforawhile:we have to pick on him he's CAH he spray painted himself into this corner with the accord.
is ok i just went to napa and got some v-powers and they work great
there is a poping like sound it has been making for a while idk what it is
when i got my first coupe. it was a dx. and it would start and idle all fucked up. and if i tried to put it in gear it would die. so i tried a tune up and new oil n stuff. and still had the same prob for a bit. so i liiked at all the vac lines and couldnt see anything that looked wrong. but then i went over to my other carbed sedan and looked at all the vac lines and stuff on it , and noticed on the drivers side there was one more vac line over by the wheel well. so i went back and looked at my car again and it had the spot for the vac line but no vac line hooked up to it. so i looked around and found a vac line hangin down and plugged it back on to that spot. and then tried and the caridled good and stayed runningwhen i put it in gear. that was my prob. same as urs it was a vac line unplugged. to spray the carb cleaner. u dont spray it inbto carb to check. u spray around all the vacuum lines from one end of vac line area to the other. around all the vac lines. not into the carb tho.
also. if u just got new plugs and now they are all messed up. i would think that u got a problem with the way the cars running so it made them look like shit real fast, not that they already went bad cause they were a cheap brand or no good. just my opinion tho i could be wrong
post pictures of the plugs that would be a big help,if they've overheated then you are running lean and possibly have a big vaccume leak. if your master cyl is leaking out the back into the brake booster,and has eaten up the diaphram inside, this could be a huge vaccume leak,and a cause of running way too lean.
what you just explained is what is happing with my car right this second i already found one vac line unplugs underneth the air filter box and i bet there is another on that is unplug too but i just dont kno where
here is the spark plug after i took it out
http://img201.imageshack.us/my.php?image=sparkplug.jpg
hey man i just had the same problem with my 88 lx. my problem was that there was no power going to my idle solenoid causing the car to die when it idles. it could also be a vaccum leak
somthing else that will make your car idle go up and down is having air bubbles trapped in the coolant lines. if u change thermostat n other stuff water pump and change somthing in the coolant lines u got to bleed the air out of the lines with the bleed valve on top of thermostat. IF U DONT YOUR CAR idle will go up and down, sorry hit caps
on sunday i just flushed my coolant and it almost looked like oil it was that nasty. idk if that contributed to the problem but the idle is still all fucked up it gets better when the car is fully warmed up.
im thinking of getting a nother car it is getting old and now the tranny is leaking but only when it is cold
Had similar issues on my 88 LX Carb. Mine would die when you stopped while in gear. Turned out to be mostly due to plugged fuel filters, also there is a O-ring under the carb that stops sealing causing coolant to blow by into carb/intake. When I changed the carb o-ring and base gasket I went ahead and replaced the carb. ($200 from importcarbuerator dot com) It comes already tuned/ran and it is easy change out & good time to swap out vacuum lines. good luck
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