Point me in the right direction please

[bwallace530]

you need to use the, "insert image" above the allowed space to type, THEN paste the link you copy from, "Photobucket" or whomever you use to share images

ok thanks for that i feel hella dumb now lol well ill be on 2marrow got to go to bed to go to work in the morn

[3rd Party]

ok thanks for that i feel hella dumb now lol well ill be on 2marrow got to go to bed to go to work in the morn

no worries, you already got your initiation hassle from me earlier

[Civic Accord Honda]

nice car! Welcome!

[markmdz89hatch]

3rd is right... ...You need to make sure your wires are on good and snug, and that they're on in the right order. Along with that, you'll need to make sure your plugs are gapped right (if they need to be gapped. Some newer tech plugs say not to screw with gapping.).

So the question that begs to be asked is: Did these idling problems exist BEFORE you replaced the plugs, or is this new since the plugs were installed?

Welcome to the board. ...and like 3rd and Ren are saying, don't just dive into the pool without knowing how deep the water is, or how to swim. In other words, BEFORE you go about trying to do anything (even something seemingly simple as replacing plugs) do your homework, ask a million questions, and listen to the advice you get, but research on your own too, to ensure you're getting the right advice. Take good care of that coupe, it looks to be in good shape from the pictures.

[cubert]

speaking of plug gap..wasnt there a post floating around here where NGK recommended gapping slightly different from the manufacturers spec?


Edit: Brilliant me just found the thread with the big *STICKY* sign next to it


https://www.3geez.com/forum/showthread.php?t=60398

[G. White]

I'm with Pico on this one.... I downloaded the factory service manual and put it on my desktop. The people that put that together are no joke. It is probably the most in depth maintainence manual I have ever seen. Start going through each section and asking myself- Has my car been doing that? The manual is telling me to check these things. You'll be troubleshooting and fixing things before you know it. Plus these guys have a wealth of knowledge and have owned these 3geez for many years.

Damn Pico I wish I still lived in Cali.....But the Air Force has me stationed in gates of hell Arizona. That's cool that you offer your services.

Bwallace you've got a nice coupe there take care of it and it will take care of you. Welcome to the site.

[bwallace530]

Where could i download the factory service manual? And yes it started after i put the new plugs in.

[3rd Party]

Where could i download the factory service manual? And yes it started after i put the new plugs in.

go to the search option on the forum and look for, "shop manual" then you should be able to sift out the ones with the shop manual download. but when you get a chance, make sure you check the wires and plugs again...make sure you did everything right.

[bwallace530]

go to the search option on the forum and look for, "shop manual" then you should be able to sift out the ones with the shop manual download. but when you get a chance, make sure you check the wires and plugs again...make sure you did everything right.

How do i know if i got all the wire going to the right plugs if i got them wrong idk how to tell.

[3rd Party]

How do i know if i got all the wire going to the right plugs if i got them wrong idk how to tell.

well i guess if you don't have NGK wires they won't have numbers on them...but on the distributor there are little tallies on the nipples where the wires connect to, (i.e I, II, III, IIII) now the plug right next to the cam gear is Cyl. 1,, to the left it Cyl. 2, to the left of that one Cyl. 3, and the plug next to the distributor is Cyl. 4...so you take the wires already connected into the spark plugs and you say, "...ok, Cyl. 1 wire goes onto the nipple marked, 'I' on the distributor..." and so on for the rest of them

[ghettogeddy]

you may also need a new set of wires and ive never heard of those plugs you mentioned in the first post but a good cheap set of ngk's have always treated me right and if you can score some ngk wires off the net thats even better

[bwallace530]

well i guess if you don't have NGK wires they won't have numbers on them...but on the distributor there are little tallies on the nipples where the wires connect to, (i.e I, II, III, IIII) now the plug right next to the cam gear is Cyl. 1,, to the left it Cyl. 2, to the left of that one Cyl. 3, and the plug next to the distributor is Cyl. 4...so you take the wires already connected into the spark plugs and you say, "...ok, Cyl. 1 wire goes onto the nipple marked, 'I' on the distributor..." and so on for the rest of them

Ok i just checked and everything is ok. Now that i know that i got the wire connected right now what should i look for sense it is still doing the high idle and wanting to die. and thanks alot

[bwallace530]

you may also need a new set of wires and ive never heard of those plugs you mentioned in the first post but a good cheap set of ngk's have always treated me right and if you can score some ngk wires off the net thats even better

the pulstar plugs where 100 bucks

[3rd Party]

the pulstar plugs where 100 bucks

jesus man...$100 for plugs?? that's outrageous...well, now that that's out of the way i'd move on to the carb. there's a good chance something's gummed up in there, or you just simply need to do some adjusting on the idle screw...but carb tech is beyond me since i've never owned a carb'd motor...

[markmdz89hatch]

holy shitballs! "they do exist" ...actually, a quick Google search yielded some results...

http://www.pulstar.com/howtobuy.cfm?...engine=1166969

Note that page does specify a 0.040 gap. Please pull the plugs and make sure that they're gapped correctly. Be careful not to ruin the spark head though. A plug gapper can be had from AutoZone or the like for $1 to $8 depending on which you get. I prefer not to use the gapping disc which you just slide the disc under the head and turn it until you get to proper gapping. Instead, I prefer to use the blade style gapping gauges (http://www.drillspot.com/products/51...plug_gap_gauge)

...anyway

1. Make sure they're gapped correctly
2. When you pull the plugs to gap them, take a picture and post it here so we can see if you've fouled out the plugs with vapor/gas washing
3. Verify that your wires are plugged to the proper plug
4. BE CAREFUL when putting the plugs back in. Start threading it by hand, and only after it's started, should you use any tools on it.*
5. Make sure you don't overtighten the plugs or you'll destroy the head
6. If you're replacing plugs and blowing $100 on them, I would suggest replacing the wires, distributor cap, and rotor while you're at it. No point in using awesome plugs if you can't give it the contact/current path needed to spark them.
7. IF this problem just started after you put these über expensive plugs in, I'm going to guess your carb is ok for now.

*IF you can't reach the plug with just your hands, either use a spark plug wrench (http://www.carparts.com/PERFORMANCE-...8_N__10618.car), or use a spark plug socket with a wobble extension or u-joint extension on it. The goal is to get the plug to basically walk onto the threads by itself so you don't end up forcing anything and stripping out the threads. I have done that, and it BLOWS.

...so just out of curiosity, why did you decide to replace your plugs, and why did you choose these plugs? (I'm not knocking you for it, just want to get to the bottom of the troubles you're having and want to help wherever I can.)

[markmdz89hatch]

An interesting thread I found on those plugs:

http://www.m5board.com/vbulletin/e39...ark-plugs.html

Not picking at all (I did the same thing when I started.), but just because it's stupid expensive, and promises the world, does not mean that it'll work. And then, even if there is something to merit the insane price, you'll have to be realistic about what to expect from a 20+ year old car with a very well used motor and one which is not ultra powerful. The most economical and effective way to make your car more fun is with suspension. The suspension in these cars is far superior to many cars of their day, and still still set ours apart from some newer cars.

Those plugs have a 30-day, no questions asked return policy, and I would suggest taking advantage of it (as long as it's been less than 30 days and you still have the receipt). For that $100, you could get yourself a set of good Bosch or NGK plugs, as well as a decent set of wires and new cap and rotor. The whole deal for $100 (or less) instead of just the plugs.

Next items for maintenance: fuel filters, air filter, oil change, thermostat and gasket replacement, PCV and temp sending unit replacement, and radiator flush. Next, consider replacing the valve cover gasket unless it's been done recently because those are prone to leaking on the carb'd cars due to the ally head and stamped steel cover.

Let us know what you're doing every step of the way and we'll all be here to help and/or flame a bit.

[Civic Accord Honda]

$100 plugs?!?! O_O!

$1.99 NGK V-Powers FTW!

[ghettogeddy]

and $10 > $100 it might be the crazy expensive plugs giving you your bad idel
i know even some of the more expensive ngk's will do that as well

[bwallace530]

holy shitballs! "they do exist" ...actually, a quick Google search yielded some results...

http://www.pulstar.com/howtobuy.cfm?...engine=1166969

Note that page does specify a 0.040 gap. Please pull the plugs and make sure that they're gapped correctly. Be careful not to ruin the spark head though. A plug gapper can be had from AutoZone or the like for $1 to $8 depending on which you get. I prefer not to use the gapping disc which you just slide the disc under the head and turn it until you get to proper gapping. Instead, I prefer to use the blade style gapping gauges (http://www.drillspot.com/products/51...plug_gap_gauge)

...anyway

1. Make sure they're gapped correctly
2. When you pull the plugs to gap them, take a picture and post it here so we can see if you've fouled out the plugs with vapor/gas washing
3. Verify that your wires are plugged to the proper plug
4. BE CAREFUL when putting the plugs back in. Start threading it by hand, and only after it's started, should you use any tools on it.*
5. Make sure you don't overtighten the plugs or you'll destroy the head
6. If you're replacing plugs and blowing $100 on them, I would suggest replacing the wires, distributor cap, and rotor while you're at it. No point in using awesome plugs if you can't give it the contact/current path needed to spark them.
7. IF this problem just started after you put these über expensive plugs in, I'm going to guess your carb is ok for now.

*IF you can't reach the plug with just your hands, either use a spark plug wrench (http://www.carparts.com/PERFORMANCE-...8_N__10618.car), or use a spark plug socket with a wobble extension or u-joint extension on it. The goal is to get the plug to basically walk onto the threads by itself so you don't end up forcing anything and stripping out the threads. I have done that, and it BLOWS.

...so just out of curiosity, why did you decide to replace your plugs, and why did you choose these plugs? (I'm not knocking you for it, just want to get to the bottom of the troubles you're having and want to help wherever I can.)

the plugs that where in there i dont think they were changed for 20yrs they were hella burnt up all black and crap. so i herd about the pulstar plugs and i had that extra about of money so i bought then they are alot smaller in width then the other ones. i did replace the spark plug wires. i checked the distributer cap and it seemed all ok but i just took it off sense i didnt really know what to do next one of the plugs that u put the wire to the engine was kinda corodded i tried to clean it out but that didnt really get me that far. and it was like that when i got the new plugs.

and a week before i put the new plugs in i replaced the valve cover gasket but that was it.

[bwallace530]

and $10 > $100 it might be the crazy expensive plugs giving you your bad idel
i know even some of the more expensive ngk's will do that as well

i think that it might be the problem

[bwallace530]

An interesting thread I found on those plugs:

http://www.m5board.com/vbulletin/e39...ark-plugs.html

Not picking at all (I did the same thing when I started.), but just because it's stupid expensive, and promises the world, does not mean that it'll work. And then, even if there is something to merit the insane price, you'll have to be realistic about what to expect from a 20+ year old car with a very well used motor and one which is not ultra powerful. The most economical and effective way to make your car more fun is with suspension. The suspension in these cars is far superior to many cars of their day, and still still set ours apart from some newer cars.

Those plugs have a 30-day, no questions asked return policy, and I would suggest taking advantage of it (as long as it's been less than 30 days and you still have the receipt). For that $100, you could get yourself a set of good Bosch or NGK plugs, as well as a decent set of wires and new cap and rotor. The whole deal for $100 (or less) instead of just the plugs.

Next items for maintenance: fuel filters, air filter, oil change, thermostat and gasket replacement, PCV and temp sending unit replacement, and radiator flush. Next, consider replacing the valve cover gasket unless it's been done recently because those are prone to leaking on the carb'd cars due to the ally head and stamped steel cover.

Let us know what you're doing every step of the way and we'll all be here to help and/or flame a bit.

i did the 1st fuel filter by the engine and i have the second could you tell me how to put that one in, where is the thermostat and what gasket replacement where is the temp sending unit and im going to do the radiator this friday and oil. and i have a ? about some thing i saw on my firewall going to my engine looks like a round bar with thing that a bolt can go threw and it is loose


i just took out the plustars and there all burnt out i will never recemend them to anyone they were the reason my car was fucked up
so i went and bought some v-power from napa just a sec ago and im about to put them in.

[markmdz89hatch]

yeah, let us know how those work out. I'm not ready to call the Pulstar's junk, but def not worth the money. It just might have been the wrong plug for your setup.

I would also (just because it's cheap and never hurts to do) replace the distributor cap and rotor. What you'll notice with a cap that should be replaced is the 4 points on the underside of the cap will tend to get corroded or worn. The rotor (the little deal that spins inside the cap) has a contact on the end of it that will also get corroded or just worn. (Both are very cheap). Do the cap and rotor, verify your wires are in the proper order, and swap out the plugs (don't forget to gap them right), and you should be running much better.

The other fuel filter is under the car just in front of the fuel tank. Same idea as the one under the hood. Just clamp off both fuel lines to/from the filter, pull them off the nipples on the filter, and replace with new. Done.

As for the bar thing you mentioned, I'm guessing it's the top 'dog bone' engine mount. That's one of the motor mounts, and it's supposed to be a little 'loose' at the engine side. You'll eventually want to replace all the mounts, but don't worry about those just yet, let's get your car idling right for now.

t-stat should be replaced when you flush your coolant. It's very easy to do, and pretty cheap as well.

the gasket I mentioned is one that goes with your thermostat. When you get the t-stat from napa or autozone, open the box and see if there is a rubber gasket with it. If not, ask them for that as well. Remember to put that t-stat in correctly. There's a flow direction that you need to be aware of when putting it in.

[bwallace530]

yeah, let us know how those work out. I'm not ready to call the Pulstar's junk, but def not worth the money. It just might have been the wrong plug for your setup.

I would also (just because it's cheap and never hurts to do) replace the distributor cap and rotor. What you'll notice with a cap that should be replaced is the 4 points on the underside of the cap will tend to get corroded or worn. The rotor (the little deal that spins inside the cap) has a contact on the end of it that will also get corroded or just worn. (Both are very cheap). Do the cap and rotor, verify your wires are in the proper order, and swap out the plugs (don't forget to gap them right), and you should be running much better.

The other fuel filter is under the car just in front of the fuel tank. Same idea as the one under the hood. Just clamp off both fuel lines to/from the filter, pull them off the nipples on the filter, and replace with new. Done.

As for the bar thing you mentioned, I'm guessing it's the top 'dog bone' engine mount. That's one of the motor mounts, and it's supposed to be a little 'loose' at the engine side. You'll eventually want to replace all the mounts, but don't worry about those just yet, let's get your car idling right for now.

t-stat should be replaced when you flush your coolant. It's very easy to do, and pretty cheap as well.

the gasket I mentioned is one that goes with your thermostat. When you get the t-stat from napa or autozone, open the box and see if there is a rubber gasket with it. If not, ask them for that as well. Remember to put that t-stat in correctly. There's a flow direction that you need to be aware of when putting it in.

so the new v-power need to be gapped also even tho they r for my car? How can i get the the gas filter by the tank do i need to take my tire off and remove anything?

and my car is making a wierd poping sound like a buble is poping or its choking????
and my car is still doing the wierd idle thing. so it wasnot the plustar but they might of caused the problem tho cuz they where all burnt out?
and another ? there is a little box under where my stereo is and it says ecu on it? it was unplugged when i bought the car i plugged it back in but i cant tell any diffrence tho if you could please help me with that thank you all so much everyday it seems like im getting closer to finding the problem and do you think i should wait out taking the car into the shop for now?

[Civic Accord Honda]

yeah u have to take the tire off then u should be able to see the fuel filter. pretty easy to replace.

[bwallace530]

yeah u have to take the tire off then u should be able to see the fuel filter. pretty easy to replace.

i cant do it today sense i do not have a lug nut wrench so this has to wait