getting a new water pump

[russiankid]

If you run into problems with something, send me a PM. I am an hour away. I've down the timing belt twice now. I've taken lots of things apart of these cars.

[griffonks]

I am about ready to do the water pump, timing belt, tensioner, front oil seal and a new dizzy on my 89 LX. Just trying to find a coolant leak somewhere on the ass end of the engine before I drain it out and get started. The last time I did the water pump/belt I put a bolt through a hole in the crank pulley and the two ends of a chain that I wrapped around the frame. Took the crankshaft pulley bolt off with a 1/2 inch socket, two 8 inch extensions through the wheel well resting on a jack stand and a breaker bar in a 6' pipe for leverage. The pulley bolt came right off. That was how I found 3geez! Thanks to all of you and good luck on the waterpump/ timing belt in your 88 lx. We have the same mileage!

[slacker]

If you run into problems with something, send me a PM. I am an hour away. I've down the timing belt twice now. I've taken lots of things apart of these cars.

Oh wow I always thought you were from Russia for some reason.. Yes, I should've just looked under your avatar.. Anyway, I really appreciate the offer. Hopefully I will be able to get it done with you guys' help here

I am about ready to do the water pump, timing belt, tensioner, front oil seal and a new dizzy on my 89 LX. Just trying to find a coolant leak somewhere on the ass end of the engine before I drain it out and get started. The last time I did the water pump/belt I put a bolt through a hole in the crank pulley and the two ends of a chain that I wrapped around the frame. Took the crankshaft pulley bolt off with a 1/2 inch socket, two 8 inch extensions through the wheel well resting on a jack stand and a breaker bar in a 6' pipe for leverage. The pulley bolt came right off. That was how I found 3geez! Thanks to all of you and good luck on the waterpump/ timing belt in your 88 lx. We have the same mileage!

Oh wow yours sounds a lot more of a pain in the a**. Thanks for the good luck wishes! My first Accord had approximately 174,000 miles on it, too, when I bought it

[Dr_Snooz]

Alright. Thanks for clearing that up. You'll want to get a good breaker bar. I think you can borrow something from Autozone or whatever. I usually put a thick impact socket extension into the timing hole to prevent the crankshaft from turning when I'm trying to get the crankshaft bolt loose. This won't work if you have a stick-shift though.

You don't want to start any repair until you've read carefully over the procedure in the shop manual. Think through every step of the process. Look at the engine and make sure you understand where every part is and how you're going to get to it. Getting the crank bolt off is going to be your biggest challenge. Getting the new belt tensioned will also be a challenge. After you've tensioned the belt, check the timing hole and the cam marks to make sure you're still at TDC in both places. You'll spend some time jerking on the belt and you could end up pulling one of them off TDC. If you get it all back together and you're off, you'll be sad, so check beforehand. Other than that, it's pretty straight forward. There's a lot of work but no rocket science really.

We're here to help you if you get stuck.

[slacker]

Alright. Thanks for clearing that up. You'll want to get a good breaker bar. I think you can borrow something from Autozone or whatever. I usually put a thick impact socket extension into the timing hole to prevent the crankshaft from turning when I'm trying to get the crankshaft bolt loose. This won't work if you have a stick-shift though.

You don't want to start any repair until you've read carefully over the procedure in the shop manual. Think through every step of the process. Look at the engine and make sure you understand where every part is and how you're going to get to it. Getting the crank bolt off is going to be your biggest challenge. Getting the new belt tensioned will also be a challenge. After you've tensioned the belt, check the timing hole and the cam marks to make sure you're still at TDC in both places. You'll spend some time jerking on the belt and you could end up pulling one of them off TDC. If you get it all back together and you're off, you'll be sad, so check beforehand. Other than that, it's pretty straight forward. There's a lot of work but no rocket science really.

We're here to help you if you get stuck.

I'll go get a breaker bar tomorrow. Thanks! I appreciate all the support

[russiankid]

That bolt is a bitch. If you cannot get it yourself. Call up a shop near by and ask if they can do it for like $10-$20 bucks. A muffler shop will be better because they have a plasma cutter, which can be useful to heat up the bolt to get it lose. Then just tighten it down and drive home carefully.

[slacker]

That bolt is a bitch. If you cannot get it yourself. Call up a shop near by and ask if they can do it for like $10-$20 bucks. A muffler shop will be better because they have a plasma cutter, which can be useful to heat up the bolt to get it lose. Then just tighten it down and drive home carefully.

Would it help at all if I sprayed some WD40 on the crank pulley bolt the night before I start working on it? And maybe heat up the bolt a little bit with a lighter right before I get to it?

[Civic Accord Honda]

WD40 is poo! pb blaster is the epic succeed-er

[russiankid]

Would it help at all if I sprayed some WD40 on the crank pulley bolt the night before I start working on it? And maybe heat up the bolt a little bit with a lighter right before I get to it?

I doubt the penetrating lube will make its way between the pulley, washer, and bolt to the threads. A lighter will not provide enough heat. Mine needed a plasma cutter + about 850 ft lbs from the impact gun to break loose.

[slacker]

I doubt the penetrating lube will make its way between the pulley, washer, and bolt to the threads. A lighter will not provide enough heat. Mine needed a plasma cutter + about 850 ft lbs from the impact gun to break loose.

oh that's awesome.. well then maybe i should start praying.. lol

[Dr_Snooz]

The torque spec on that bolt is 108 ft-lbs. Most shops are too busy/lazy/etc. to bother putting it on correctly. They lay on it with the impact gun for about a half-hour and call it a day. The next poor sucker has a big mess on his hands. If you're consistent about doing your own work properly, you won't have any trouble with it.

[l75eya]

Matter of fact, I'm still trying to figure out where the stupid transmission dipstick is so I can check the fluid.

That goddamn dipstick is in the most retarded place possible. It's literally like...maybe an inch high and is right on top of the transmission, so you have to shove your arm through tons of vacuum lines and what have you to get to it, and of *course* you can't check it when the engine is warm, unless you want to burn your arm.
Come to think of it, you're going to be around here tomorrow, I'll show you where it is exactly lol, but seriously....I think the Honda designers intentionally made it a bitch to get to, just to be assholes.

[slacker]

That goddamn dipstick is in the most retarded place possible. It's literally like...maybe an inch high and is right on top of the transmission, so you have to shove your arm through tons of vacuum lines and what have you to get to it, and of *course* you can't check it when the engine is warm, unless you want to burn your arm.
Come to think of it, you're going to be around here tomorrow, I'll show you where it is exactly lol, but seriously....I think the Honda designers intentionally made it a bitch to get to, just to be assholes.

Yup! That is the most ridiculous place to put a dipstick. Anyway, thanks for pointing out where it's located and it's a pleasure meeting you in person.

**UPDATE:**
Unfortunately I haven't received all my parts yet.. (eBay sucks) I will have to wait until next weekend to start working on the car.

Also, it seems like my work will be doubled as I just bought a hatch from one of our members here and she will need a new water pump and all that neat stuff as well.. She is an 87 DX Hatch. She is pretty beat up (no offense l75eya) but still in good shape compared to most 20 year old vehicles out there. I think I got a pretty good deal on her, too.

That said, dear 3geez members, I will need a lot more advice from you guys as I work on my new hatch. I know y'all love () to hear this. I will be posting pictures of my LX and the new DX soon (hopefully tomorrow) in another thread.

[russiankid]

What brand waterpump are you using?

[slacker]

What brand waterpump are you using?

I already ordered an ITM water pump for the sedan. I am about to order another water pump for the hatch. Should I just order another ITM for $30 shipped or go with something else? I was told by MessyHonda to use OEM Honda parts but I'm not sure how much extra I would have to spend on those and if I could afford them after buying the hatch. Besides, it would only be fair for both cars if I get another ITM

[russiankid]

Well let me put it this way. I had an aftermarket(probably Pepgirl special) waterpump and it went at 30k. I now have a OEM Honda pump, has roughly 25k miles on it and it doesn't have any issues.

[slacker]

Well let me put it this way. I had an aftermarket(probably Pepgirl special) waterpump and it went at 30k. I now have a OEM Honda pump, has roughly 25k miles on it and it doesn't have any issues.

Oh damn.. Where do I get OEM parts again? Other than the stealership?

[lostforawhile]

Oh damn.. Where do I get OEM parts again? Other than the stealership?

i've had the water pump from nappa for years,never had a problem with it

[russiankid]

Oh damn.. Where do I get OEM parts again? Other than the stealership?

www.hondaautomotiveparts.com

A GMB pump is good too.

[cubert]

Oh damn.. Where do I get OEM parts again? Other than the stealership?

I wouldnt stress over an aftermarket water pump too much...Ive used them before and never had issues

[russiankid]

Let me know if you need some help. I know doing the timing belt for the first can be nerve racking.

[slacker]

i've had the water pump from nappa for years,never had a problem with it

I wouldnt stress over an aftermarket water pump too much...Ive used them before and never had issues

Let me know if you need some help. I know doing the timing belt for the first can be nerve racking.

Thanks all for the support! I'm getting started as soon as I get the rest of my stuff in mail. I am thinking about starting with the hatch as it will most likely be my daily drive. It will need new ball joints, too.. and possibly control arms.. I just want to get my water pump and timing belt done before I get to anything else.

[slacker]

OK so here are the updates. I had to start with my sedan as my water pump got seized on my way home from college yesterday morning. The pulley just stopped and ripped the belt apart. My power steering, ac, and alternator stopped, too at the same time.. Luckily I was about 3 minutes from home. Until I got home, though, one of the hoses couldn't take the heat and let the antifreeze go all over my engine bay.. I do have some pictures. There was a lot of smoke coming out of the engine for like 30 seconds until I parked it, caused by the antifreeze going all over the engine.

So here are the pics:











I have all the parts I need and I started taking everything apart. I popped the top cover for the timing belt and it seems to me that it is considerably new. Of course I took some pictures of that, too. Should I still replace the belt or does it seem like it still has a good bit of life?

[russiankid]

I would replace it and forget about it. You don't know the exact mileage on the belt. I have seen belts with over 100k miles look fairly new, but they're not.

[BITESIZE]

Change it and the tensioner.