Anyone else had this happen? Lost 3 out of 4 studs!
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Anyone else had this happen? Lost 3 out of 4 studs!
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your b20 is just a beast....haha...time to upgrade to ARP studs
1989 Honda Accord LX-i
B18c1 swap since 7/2011
175whp and 132tq
Redzone tuned
Reason you lost them is because they're stock 21 year old studs. I have brand new studs up front and the rear(except one side).
Sam
1989 Accord LX: Sold with 208k-now somewhere around 230k with new owner
Current:
2014 Elantra Sport 6MT
2000 Montero Sport 4x4 (beater, trail rig)
i've only ever seen wheel studs break coz of over tightening.
diff offset wheel can stuff wheel bearings a bit quicker but never seen studs break like that before
extended studs FTW!!! problem is stock is too short for the fatter base of aftermarket rims so the lugs dont get enough threads.
1988 Honda Accord LX-i Coupe 123k miles.
indeed overtightening but never snapped by themselves
all 3 broke off at the same time? It looks like the top left stud has been broke for awhile. Maybe it's a shadow.
Anyway judging the ring left on the caliper from the wheel it seems that the hub diameter on the wheel is too big.
The wheel should fit tight to the hub. If the wheel doesn't fit tight to the hub then all of the weight of the car sits solely on the studs.
I have seen this happen twice, one guy hit a big pot hole and snapped them off. The other snapped them on a hard launch with drag radials.
un-motivated!
someone make me an offer i just could not say no to.
3GR
Seems like there where loose and not tq. so they busted up...that an big wheels just a no no bro alot of stress...thats why i have 15..if you went that route and lower it man that would be sexy
200+ ALL MOTOR LS VTEC
they fatique from being old, the ARP studs are cheap, get them, and the weight of the car is supposed to be on the studs, thats why it's so important to use the correct lug nuts for your wheels, if you use the wrong ones there is movement between the wheel and the stud and this same thing can happen. the lug nuts have to fit in the correct taper, this centers the wheel on the stud, and is what actually carries the load.
could look in to something like this
http://passwordjdm.com/Blox-Racing-E...ds-P599C0.aspx
1988 Honda Accord LX-i Coupe 123k miles.
no, never happened to me.
to think we rely on 16 of those little tiny pieces of metal to not fail at high speed :O
Got these on order
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And open end lug nuts are the only ones that will work for these studs
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I think it was the stress of having the bigger 17 inch rims. The shorter lugs are only made to suppoprt a factory 14 or 15 inch rim which is why they gave out. The extra weight from the bigger rims caused too much stress on the lugs I guess. Im still impressed that they lasted 2 years on my car before they broke.
Last edited by bullard123; 04-04-2009 at 08:38 PM.
You need to buy some hub-centric rings by the looks of it, otherwise the same thing is bound to happen sometime down the road. Having all of the weight and stress of the wheel transfer to the studs will cause that to happen, whether they are ARP or Stock.
My Project thread https://www.3geez.com/forum/project-c...dan-build.html
My Flickr: http://www.flickr.com/photos/jdmca5/
the weight is supposed to be on the studs, no one understands this, thats why the lug nuts have a taper that matches a taper on the hub, they fit like a key in a lock. the pressure from tightning the lug nut on the stud forces that taper into the taper on the hub. thats what holds your wheel on. the only time the center of the hub holds it is if you had something like halibrand knockoff centers or something else without lug nuts. the lug nuts and lug studs hold the wheel on the car. I see people all the time with the wrong type of lug nut on their wheels and wonder how long till they bust off the studs.
here's a good picture from tire rack, the tapered area is where all the force from tightning the lugs is at, this is what actually holds the wheel to the car, this is also why it's so important to torque your lug nuts correctly.![]()
Good info Lost![]()
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