Mark's 89 Hatch Build Thread

[Nafs Asdf]

...and that's a very good thought. Where would I find said guy?

I was looking at the stock dizzy, and wonder if I might have to just gut on and stuff it on there only because it's got the bearing built into it, and has that spade that fits on the end of the cam.

If something could be made that mimic's the end of the dizzy, that would be sweet.

In here: https://www.3geez.com/forum/showthrea...=62521&page=26

cygnus x-1 was the guy I think.

[markmdz89hatch]

ah cygnus, yeah, word has it he's actually building his car to run the full MegaJolt/MegaSquirt setup. The Squirt has no place in a carb'd car though. I'll look him up and see what he did. Thanks for that link.

[Civic Accord Honda]

oh snap! hellz yeah!!

[MessyHonda]

i think you can use a b serries cam cap on our motors....i know eagle makes some

http://www.goldeneaglemfg.com/index....roducts_id=160

[LX-incredible]

...and that's a very good thought. Where would I find said guy?

I was looking at the stock dizzy, and wonder if I might have to just gut on and stuff it on there only because it's got the bearing built into it, and has that spade that fits on the end of the cam.

If something could be made that mimic's the end of the dizzy, that would be sweet.

To attach the trigger wheel to? The bearing in the distributor doesn't bear the load of the cam.

[markmdz89hatch]

i think you can use a b serries cam cap on our motors....i know eagle makes some

http://www.goldeneaglemfg.com/index....roducts_id=160

Jesse, thanks for that link. Hell, for the $24, I might as well try it right.

To attach the trigger wheel to? The bearing in the distributor doesn't bear the load of the cam.

Not for the trigger wheel. The trigger wheel attaches to the crank pulley, which, along with the rest of this system, is what will drive the ignition system now. This system uses timing from the crank rather than the cam. This is a 'distributorless' system, so there is no longer any need for the dizzy, so I can essentially just plug that end, but what I'm still a bit in the dark about is the function of the dizzy to keep the cam from walking. I know it doesn't bear any vertical load, but I'm only assuming it does maintain a bit of lateral load in keeping the cam from walking. ...I say that only because without the dizzy, I don't see anything stopping the cam from trying to walk toward where the dizzy was. I know I'm repeating myself in this response, but I'm not sure if I'm being really clear about my concern. Hopefully someone will get what I'm trying to say.

[Rendon LX-i]

Umms sounds like a plan...

[88LXi68]

I think you are over thinking this.

the cam is still bolted to the cam gear...it shouldn't move

[markmdz89hatch]

I think you are over thinking this.

the cam is still bolted to the cam gear...it shouldn't move

...and this is a surprise to you?

[2ndGenGuy]

I think the real question then, is what keeps the cam from walking out towards the cam gear? I don't think the cam will move, but I'm not sure I understand what holds it in place either.

[Nafs Asdf]

I think the real question then, is what keeps the cam from walking out towards the cam gear? I don't think the cam will move, but I'm not sure I understand what holds it in place either.

Is there something in the distributor that holds it on place then? I'd think that would make it pretty hard to take the dizzy off..

[markmdz89hatch]

Is there something in the distributor that holds it on place then? I'd think that would make it pretty hard to take the dizzy off..

Here's an image I scabbed off an ebay auction:
(Note the 'plug' that goes into the head is a two-step, the 1st (larger diameter) is acting as the seal, and the 2nd is somewhat of a cam-button with those two spade lugs that fit into a slot at the end of the cam (what makes the dizzy spin). What I'm wondering is if there's a need to just plug the head to take the place of the 1st step, or if I'll need a plug to mimic both 'steps'.

Does that make any sense?

[LX-incredible]

Not for the trigger wheel. The trigger wheel attaches to the crank pulley, which, along with the rest of this system, is what will drive the ignition system now. This system uses timing from the crank rather than the cam. This is a 'distributorless' system, so there is no longer any need for the dizzy, so I can essentially just plug that end, but what I'm still a bit in the dark about is the function of the dizzy to keep the cam from walking. I know it doesn't bear any vertical load, but I'm only assuming it does maintain a bit of lateral load in keeping the cam from walking. ...I say that only because without the dizzy, I don't see anything stopping the cam from trying to walk toward where the dizzy was. I know I'm repeating myself in this response, but I'm not sure if I'm being really clear about my concern. Hopefully someone will get what I'm trying to say.

The cam will walk the same with or without the distributor. The key doesn't sit all the way in against it. The cam is centered by a ring that rides in a groove in the end cam cap.

[markmdz89hatch]

The cam will walk the same with or without the distributor. The key doesn't sit all the way in against it. The cam is centered by a ring that rides in a groove in the end cam cap.

and that is the answer I was looking for. OK, now I just need that plug that messy linked (or something similar). Thanks man.

[markmdz89hatch]

more goodies:

Cam:


Fuel pump and Filter:


Adjustable Cam Gear:


Steering wheel with quick release hub:


Clutch:


Custom Stooooopid heavy-duty ACT Pressure Plate: (I know it's not pretty, but it'll definitely get the job done.)


New AGM Battery: (Paying for this sucked ass.)


Decisions decisions: (which cover to go with) (PS> Thanks John.)


And finally...
Anyone been around here long enough to remember these: (Not a big deal at all, but we were all over 'em like stink on poop when a member was making them.) The short shifter, I'm not sure if I'm going to use or not. Prolly not though.


That's all I got for now. ...more to come fo' sho'.

[mykwikcoupe]

ok ive been around here a while and I cannot think of a place to use those. What r they for

[markmdz89hatch]

ok ive been around here a while and I cannot think of a place to use those. What r they for

oh c'mon Mike. Those are the little rain shields someone made for the H4 headlight conversions because the kits back in the day were notorious for leaking. This kept the water out of them.

[mykwikcoupe]

no way really?

[Civic Accord Honda]

fuck yah thats awesome

and 2g valve cover FTW

[Tdurr]

sickness. wut cam is it?

[2ndGenGuy]

Lovin' the toys man. Now you just gotta get em installed!

[87roach]

Good stuff man, nice to see your collection finally(well bits of it). Is that a regular battery or no?

[Rendon LX-i]

OOOO...i remember those...FUCK i want a set...LOL...

[MessyHonda]

what stage cam did you go with

[markmdz89hatch]

Lovin' the toys man. Now you just gotta get em installed!

Riiiiiiight. So you gonna fly over from WA to help out? I have no idea what the hell I'm doing, so it'll be a 'learn as you go' on this one.

Good stuff man, nice to see your collection finally(well bits of it). Is that a regular battery or no?

shhh.... Yes, you of all people know all-too-well that I 'forgot' to put a few pics up. In time they'll surface though. For the battery, no it's no normal battery. That's a sealed AGM (absorbed glass-mat) battery which allows me to install it at pretty much any angle/position, but the main reason in getting it was for safety (in case I roll the car [hopefully will never happen]) but more-so for space and weight savings. This thing is tiny, and although a lead brick, it's less than half the weight of the stocker. But this all comes at a price of about $180. Shit that hurt. Link to more than you'll ever want to know about batteries: http://www.batterystuff.com/tutorial_battery.html#3

OOOO...i remember those...FUCK i want a set...LOL...

I think I can whip up a set. I have a friend with a metal brake, and can just duplicate these, but I think using aluminum would be a better alternative to this zinc-plated sheet for rust/corrosion resistance. Let me know if you want me to do it.

what stage cam did you go with

Don't quote me on this, but it's supposedly a 272 (which is only a mild/mid grind, nothing crazy as I don't want something like a 295 screwing with my idle while I'm trying to tune the carbs). I have yet to even open the box, so I'll mic it up as soon as I open it just to check everything, then I'll confirm the 272.