Camber```
Can someone post me some links to information on camber correction.
And how much camber does the prelude upper control arm give you back converted to lowering it. Another words how much would it lower my car to be at perfect camber with the prelude control arms using coil overs.
ANY CLues?
I think you could probably go about a 2, maybe 2 1/2" drop and still be able to get the camber at 0. Any lower and you might need to elongate the slots.
On the other hand, "perfect" camber isn't necessarily 0 degrees. Perfect is whatever gives you even tire wear. If you drive fast through corners a lot, you'll want some negative camber to keep from wearing the outside of the tires.
Originally Posted by Justanothermike
my A20 is not SLOW. ur A20 is slow.
Sweet thanks for the coment. Im just a everyday driver with my car. Not a spead demon.Originally Posted by Strugglebucket
I know all about tire wear thats why i need to get my camber right .Spend probably more than 500 bucks in 4 years with tires for my car. So thats why i wanted to fix it. I was goin to get the prlude arm and some coil overs and see just bring it down to stock camber. If its around 2 inches il be happy.I gotta do it all at the same time. I need tires too 205/40/17 Hopefully last time for 5 years with the camber fix.
Lowered over 2 inches with the prelude arms mine will only adjust out to around -1. Also camber will not be the main source of tire wear you can have a good deal of camber and not wear the tires as long as your caster and toe in are correct. And unless you barely drive and your tires are hard as a rock I doubt youll see 5 years from a set of tires.
1986 Honda Accord Lx-i
~~NGK~~Silvania~~MSD~~Pioneer~~MSW~~Bosch~~DC Sports~~115WHP 116WTQ
^^ that last part is true.
Yup, bad toe kills tires much faster than negative camber does.
Yep, just like Alex and Shroom say, toe kills.
When I did my auto-stick conversion, I had removed a radius rod. When putting it back on, I overtighten it and pulled the toe WAY out. I ate through a brand spanking new set of Nitto 450's in less than 4K miles. ...definitely something that should be addressed immediately.
Toe or caster will chew up tires, and will cause excessive wear (premature failure) of other parts such as wheel bearings, etc. Camber being off will just unevenly wear a tire inside to outside. Camber (negative up front) can actually help a car handle and behave better, but that's for another topic.
As for the lude arms, I'm hearing (but have not confirmed without a doubt) that the lude arms at full extension are actually still shorter than the stock 3G upper arm. This means that the your camber will actually be worse than with the stock 3G arms if you were to lower your car. But there is some buzz about ways to modify the lude arm in order to allow a greater range of adjustment allowing for a longer (at full extension) adjustment over the 3G stocker.
-Mark D.
Toe kills is right. My son has a '92 Subaru SVX (with the funny windows), and is running 18" Lexus wheels with $150 225-40's. Somehow he got his toe-in to a toe-out situation, and the inside shoulder of the fronts vaporized in just a couple of thousand miles. I didn't notice it visually until I drove it, and noticed a shaking over 55.
On the camber situation, as we speak, I am having installed on my SE-i camber-adjusting UCA mounts. I looked at the various other alternatives, but these seemed to offer the best solution for me. You can get up to 1.5 degrees positive change, in one of three holes for the UCA mounting bolt. I only needed a correction of +.7 on the left and +1.5 on the right to end up with about -1.0 on both sides, so it was good for me. I saw some adjusters that depended on tightening down a sliding bolt, which seemed too dangerous. I didn't want a non-standard UCA as from a Prelude.
My car is lowered 1" via Eibach, which gave me -1.7 on the left and -2.7 on the right. The right side is out more, courtesy of a pothole strike by the previous owner. I have been living with that for probably 5 years now, and truthfully haven't really seen any non-uniform wear, but since I was installing all new control arms/ball joints/bushings/shock rubbers up front, it seemed like a good time to take care of the camber. The steering should probably lighten up a bit too.
The adjusters are made by Specialty Products, page 74 of this catalog: http://www.specprod.com/CATALOG_DIR/PassCar_08.pdf , item nos. 84600 & 84650. While you can buy them directly from Specialty, they're protecting their distributors, so their price is way high. I got mine from Mohawk Rubber, 781-741-6000, about $100 for the pair incl shipping, item nos SP84600 & SP84650. They're very heavy duty. I also ordered some poly washers to replace the included rubber ones. Someone mentioned that the rubber washers can get torn up.
I have a feeling that whenever Specialty's stock is used up, they're gonna be gone.
Last edited by w261w261; 05-07-2009 at 03:19 PM.
As I said up there fully extended you will still end up with about -1 camber which is pretty much perfect. Although it is still a lot better than stock arms. With stock arms I had -5-(-8) on both sides then went down to -1 with prelude arms.
1986 Honda Accord Lx-i
~~NGK~~Silvania~~MSD~~Pioneer~~MSW~~Bosch~~DC Sports~~115WHP 116WTQ
Well the basis of this post is so i can get me car lowered the correctly with out having to buy new tires for it all the time. And gettin the correct amount of tire on the road.
Not only that but i want my tires to look straight lookin at it from the side. It looks like its about 5 times to heavy for itself with its dropped.
I am not real sure on how you adjust caster if someone can clue me in on it. I just thought that you fix the camber with the control arms and my rim and tire would be where it is supposed to be. Im not a big mumbo jumbo on camber and 15 degress and all the shit i need to know.
But id like to see the video. sorta speak
Last edited by -$MOKIN-; 05-07-2009 at 12:36 PM.
Posting on and re-reading this thread, something just occurred to me. The excess negative camber on my right side happened after the previous owner hit a pothole. They said they had to get a new wheel. I wonder if the reason the camber was out was the original mount for the UCA was damaged. In that case, by getting rid of (the possibly damaged) mount when I put the new mount in, I will automatically make up 1 degree, and therefore I should only bring the right side back .5 instead of 1.5.
So the question is: is it most likely to be the mount that was damaged in the original pot hole strike, or something else? I just have to make an educated guess. Anyone have any input? I have to make this determination RIGHT NOW, as things are being put in, or maybe are in already.
Thx.
Last edited by w261w261; 05-07-2009 at 12:44 PM.
smokin,
The long and short of it is this. Once you lower your car, in order to do it correctly, bring it to a tire shop or mechanic to get put back into alignment. If by lowering it, you knock your caster or toe out of adjustment, they can dial it back in without the need to use any aftermarket parts.
Camber is what makes the wheels look like they're getting sucked into the wheel well up top. In this case, if you were to use the adjusters that w261 mentioned above, that should get your wheel closer to vertical (0° camber).
-Mark D.
Like many members have mentioned already toe is by far the most important, then excessive camber. Mismatched caster may cause the steering to pull and typically not much else. Caster only affects the angle of the tires when they are steered off-center.
Mike
Hey thanks mark im a noob so i ask questions . But hopefully il get where im going without rework and spending alot of money. I wasnt for sure what caster was but now im guessing its how straight my tire goes with the tie rod adjustment. So your right i gotta get a set of new tires and a alighnment when i throw it all together.
I dont think im goin to go with the prelude arms either tho. i need to find a aftermarket part that i can adjust with some coil overs and try differnt hights out and maybe even change during certain seasons .
Or wait its the lower control arm the controls caster ? Good to know i dont have to get something to adjust it.
Last edited by -$MOKIN-; 05-08-2009 at 05:01 PM.
https://www.3geez.com/forum/showthread.php?t=48190
Mike did a great write up top of the page. If you google some there some links with nice pictures etc. that explain alignment also.
If you do lower your car just get the toe set for the time being. It should be fine but it is the most important. Caster and camber you can fool with later they be effected more the lower you go. I personally like about -2 camber front and rear and have 0 tire wear problems after about 4 sets of 200 tread wear tires.
wp
1988 Lxi owner since August 1995
336k miles running strong!
Now running E85.
Oldblueaccord <<< MY YOUTUBE PAGE!
THanks for the link....I got some idea on the caster camber and toe now. And your right that was a sweet post. PRetty much comes down to having the know how and having the tolls to do the job. IN whcih i dont have either..lol So it all comes down to getingi a correct alighnment and i guess i would have to pay extra from them to deal with the camber if i get a camber kit. bUT THANK FOR THE INFO.....Just what i needed to get a grasp on the information.
I just found a shop that understood what I said when I told them I have adjustable suspension parts on my car and I wanted negative 2 camber all the way around. If you have an autocross club those guys no where to go to get good quility alignments. In the end it cost me less at a small shop then to fool around at Firestone trying to get them to even understand what camber is.
wp
1988 Lxi owner since August 1995
336k miles running strong!
Now running E85.
Oldblueaccord <<< MY YOUTUBE PAGE!
Posting Permissions
Reply With Quote
Bookmarks