As the title says, anyone done this? The shop manual says to use the ALB Hand Pump Assembly when bleeding one of the screw on the ALB, but don't think I'll find one of those too easily.
As the title says, anyone done this? The shop manual says to use the ALB Hand Pump Assembly when bleeding one of the screw on the ALB, but don't think I'll find one of those too easily.
I've done the BMW and the 4g. Most of the time, you can just bleed the master cylinder normally without any special tools. It's when you want to bleed the ALB assembly itself that things get more interesting.
Dr_Snooz
"I like to take hammers, and just break stuff, just break stuff." - Beavis
1989 Honda Accord LX-i Coupe, 240k miles, MT swap, rear disc swap
Shop manual downloads available here: CLICK TO VIEW
My ALB has failed about 3 years ago.
I have removed the fuse and warning lamp bulb from clock so I haven't bled myself so I am writing with my imagination.
You might be able to buy the hand pump from Honda if they have it and if they are happy to sell it to you(I doubt it though)
As far as I know the hand pump is to give pressure in the reserve tank so that fluid can flow out when bleeding and you might be able to make one - buy universal hand pump kit from car parts shop and buy reserve tank cap from Honda, then make hole on it and fit the tube from hand pump.
I haven't done it myself but when I was looking at the box of those universal kit, it was rather simple construction.
One thing I am not sure was if the reserve tank cap is air tight (may be yes, or can do with rubber ring or something creative?)
you need to be able to cycle the ALB motor as part of a complete bleed, the issue is brake fluid attracts moisture.And you cant get a complete bleed without some purging of the ALD block. I would just be sure to open caliper bleeds anytime the pistons are pushed in for pad service so none of the moisture back up into the ALB block, then just do starndard bleed procedures and unless there is still an air problem just dont worry about it.
Even then, after a few days of driving you can go back and bleed the MC and then the four corners and it most of the time that takes care of it.
Theoretically? that could appear as BS but I am using real life experience as a practical reference, which I have seen work a majority of the time except on more complicated systems on other models than these.
mitivac makes a hand pressure pump that will do that, they also make great hand pumps and brake bleeder accessories to go with them, it's just a pressure bleeder,you will just have to make an adaptor out of a spare cap. the pressure bleeding part itself isn't unusual. just get a cap,and epoxy a fitting into it.
here it is,you might be able to find a cheaper one, but if you get a good one it will last a lifetime,and is a very useful tool in repair work http://www.mityvac.com/pages/products_hvpo.asp
I have bought a similar tool to that mityvac. And I would've gotten the system bled just fine if I didn't have the later model ALBs (they change in 88 or 89). They look completely different I can't find any bleed screws on the thing. And there's no directions for bleeding it manually in the shop manual. Only instructions for doing it with an ALB checker.
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